pathy97 Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 My check engine light just came on today. Im getting two codes P0130 oxygen sensor circuit bank 1 Sensor 1 and P1447 evap purge flow monitor. Anyone experenced these codes and what did you do to repair them,thanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) the O2 sensor code is for lean. The purge flow monitor means there is a problem with the flow of your evap system? have you done anything to the truck recently? u have a small hose that plugs into the bottom of the TB housing hard to see with the tubing for the intake on. but check and see if that is unplugged. The hose runs to a solenoid "little black box" with other hoses coming off of it. Its only about a 7 to 9" small rubber hose. Either A this hose is off and is causing multiple codes. Or B the "black box is malfunctioning and making fubar? 0130 is 02 stuck in a constant condition other than 2.2v "something like that". Only thing i could recommend is what i already did. Make sure the black box electrical is plugged up and make sure the 02 sensor is plugged up "easy to trace the o2 wire from the header before the cat to the top of passenger valve cover" also if your budget is tight and you wanna be sure its the o2 sensor swap it out with the driver side "pre cat" o2 sensor. if you CEL comes on but for bank 2 sensor 1 then u know the sensor is toast. if not well something else is causing it. if your truck starts getting crap for mpg, try unplugging the o2 sensor and seeing if it runs better. if its a false code the ECU should revert back to previously mapped "over long peroid of time" data. that will band-aid it till u can get an o2. but having both codes at once ..... hope my hopeless rambling has helped u out even a little. i was just trying to remember everything i read previously about the o2 sensor in conjunction with the evap. " i was stuck lean" and my fuel pressure regulator exit hose was unplugged behind the upper intake. I have never had the evap problem tho. the evap is not used to control the engine directly. so u may have had the code stored then the o2 went wonky on you and threw the CEL LIGHT and u just pulled them both. not sure if evap would throw a code by itself or not since its not used directly in controlling the operation of the motor. Anyways thats how it is on a 96 hope u get er lined out bud. Edited January 18, 2013 by fixinto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) the O2 sensor code is for lean. The purge flow monitor means there is a problem with the flow of your evap system? have you done anything to the truck recently? u have a small hose that plugs into the bottom of the TB housing hard to see with the tubing for the intake on. but check and see if that is unplugged. The hose runs to a solenoid "little black box" with other hoses coming off of it. Its only about a 7 to 9" small rubber hose. Either A this hose is off and is causing multiple codes. Or B the "black box is malfunctioning and making fubar? 0130 is 02 stuck in a constant condition other than 2.2v "something like that". Make sure the black box electrical is plugged up and make sure the 02 sensor is plugged up, and the wires are not broken or pulled out of the o2 sensor or connector. "easy to trace the o2 wire from the exhaust manifold before the cat to the top of passenger valve cover" also if your budget is tight and you wanna be sure its the o2 sensor swap it out with the driver side "pre cat" o2 sensor. if you CEL comes on but for bank 2 sensor 1 then u know the sensor is toast. if not well something else is causing it. and if it is still the bank 1 sensor 1 code its probably an exhaust leak pre sensor on your exhaust manifold. but you should be able to hear it if its bad enough to throw a lean o2 code. if your truck starts getting crap for mpg, try unplugging the o2 sensor and seeing if it runs better. if its a false code (such as a miss read from an exhaust leak) the ECU should revert back to previously mapped "over long peroid of time" data. that will band-aid it till u can get an o2. but having both codes at once .....the evap is not used to control the engine directly. so u may have had the code stored then the o2 went wonky on you and threw the CEL LIGHT and u just pulled them both. not sure if evap would throw a code by itself or not since its not used directly in controlling the operation of the motor. hope my hopeless rambling has helped u out even a little. i was just trying to remember everything i read previously about the o2 sensor in conjunction with the evap. " i was stuck lean" and my fuel pressure regulator hose was unplugged behind the upper intake. Anyways thats how it is on a 96 hope u get er lined out bud. arranged this a little different, wouldnt let me edit my first post, i think this is a little bit more organized and not all over the place, im kindof a scatter brain when im thinking things out and it comes out like crap in the post..... Edited January 18, 2013 by fixinto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathy97 Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 Thanks very mich for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 oh ya i forgot to mention the MAF, on the side of ur air box. if it gets dirty or goes bad it can do something similar. If ur truck is running really really bad with the codes unplug it and see if it runs better. u can just unplug the battery neg terminal unplug the maf and take out the 2 screws, clean the wires with maf cleaner or alcohol and a q tip, make sure u didnt leave behind any fuzz. then throw her back in there, hook everything back up and c what u get. sorry for excluding this info on my earlier post, it completely escaped my attention. Hope you get er runnin right again. GL to ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathy97 Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Thanks for your help. My truck runs very good,thats not the problem. Question is there anyway besides driving 176 miles to get the ecu to run a circut and clear the codes. I know i can clear them with a code scanner but then i cant get it inspected because the monitors wont be ready,Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90seven Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 To clear the codes you can simply disconnect the battery for a few minutes to do so. Afterwards you can force the system to cycle vs driving the lengthy set of miles in some cases. I'm sure you can find somewhere on here with instructions to force a cycle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90seven Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 To reset: Step 1 of 9 Open the driver's side door and get into the drivers seat. Step 2 of 9 Insert the key into the ignition and turn it a quarter turn so the ignition turns on, but the engine doesn't start. Step 3 of 9 Step on the gas pedal and quickly release it. Do this 5 times in less than 5 seconds. When you step on the pedal, press it down as far as it can go. Step 4 of 9 Wait 10 seconds. Step 5 of 9 Press the gas pedal completely down with your foot and hold it there for 10 seconds, or until the SES light blinks on and off. Step 6 of 9 Step on the gas pedal and hold it down completely for another 10 seconds and then release it. Step 7 of 9 Turn the ignition key to the off position. Step 8 of 9 Wait 3 minutes for the ECU to automatically reset. Step 9 of 9 Start your engine. This will reset the SES light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90seven Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Generic OBD II "Drive Cycle" Most OBD II ("On-Board Diagnostics II") diagnostic monitors will run at some time during normal operation of the vehicle. However, to satisy all of the different Trip enable criteria and run all of the OBD II diagnostic monitors, the vehicle must be driven under a variety of conditions. The following drive cycle will (theoretically) allow all monitors to run on (??) vehicle. (Note: Drive cycle specifics vary by vehicle!) Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes). Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes. Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute. Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes. Decelerate with using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathy97 Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 Thanks I will try that as driving 176 miles costs $ as far as gas goes. Do i need to clear out the codes first( I own a scanner) then do the Generic OBD II "Drive Cycle" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 I don't really know after reading these posts. I'd just say hop on one leg while rubbing your tummy and patting your head with the key 1/4 turn and then do the "Humpty dance". I bet your CEL goes away at some point? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Where did you get the 176 mile figure? I recall reading in the FSM a section detailing the "drive cycle" procedure for inspection readiness. I will try to dig that up later when I'm not so tired for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathy97 Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 Thanks. Thats how much I had to drive last time I wanted to go through the drive cycle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathy97 Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 I replaced the right side upstream o2 sensor and it was fouled/black. Could a vacuum leak cause that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 EC-40 has a chart and thorough description of the driving pattern required to complete system readiness test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 I replaced the right side upstream o2 sensor and it was fouled/black. Could a vacuum leak cause that? i believe running too many fuel additives or running pretty rich my cause that. "dont quote me on it" think i read it somewhere tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathy97 Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Hey Towncivilian can you PLEASE tell me exactly where in the ec-40 that is. I cant find it,thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathy97 Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Hey Towncivilian can you PLEASE tell me exactly where in the ec-40 that is. I cant find it,thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathy97 Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 When you said Decelerate with using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Did you mean without using the brake? Generic OBD II "Drive Cycle"Most OBD II ("On-Board Diagnostics II") diagnostic monitors will run at some time during normal operation of the vehicle.However, to satisy all of the different Trip enable criteria and run all of the OBD II diagnostic monitors, the vehicle must be driven under a variety of conditions. The following drive cycle will (theoretically) allow all monitors to run on (??) vehicle. (Note: Drive cycle specifics vary by vehicle!)Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.Decelerate with using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle.Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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