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Front wheel bearing tool, have a question.


snow4me
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Well, I am finishing up my AC lift after a lengthy strut rot repair. Bought the performance tool Dana 44 socket and modified it to fit our bearing preload collar or whatever it's called. My question is... The FSM says to torque the front wheel bearings to a maximum of 72 ft lbs, spin the hub, back it off to 0 ft lbs, then retorque it to 13 INCH pounds, yes, INCH pounds. Is this a joke??? My inch pound torque wrench starts at 25 inch pounds, LOL. I just grabbed the socket/tool and snugged it by hand and put the washer deal with the holes in it and tightened the two screws down. Is this good enough? Thanks!

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Thats exactly what I did. On a side note, I actually found the right tool at my local Napa that I didnt have to modify....for 14.99. I was suprised since so many people seem to have a hard time finding it.

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The FSM wants you to tighten it first in order to seat the bearings against the races, then back it off for correct pre-load. You're sort of bringing everything together to get any play or slack out of it and setting it firm but not too tight or lose.

Technically, you can use a strain guage to measure exact torque required to rotate the hub. Myself, I seat the bearing and then back it off a little checking tightness just enough not to be really stiff when I turn the hub and then check for slop.

My 2 cents

Edited by rocky2
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The FSM wants you to tighten it first in order to seat the bearings against the races, then back it off for correct pre-load. You're sort of bringing everything together to get any play or slack out of it and setting it firm but not too tight or lose.

Technically, you can use a strain guage to measure exact torque required to rotate the hub. Myself, I seat the bearing and then back it off a little checking tightness just enough not to be really stiff when I turn the hub and then check for slop.

My 2 cents

Yea, I'm not going to use the strain gauge either. I'll tell ya, 72 ft lbs was scaring me a little when I was seating the bearings but I think it feels pretty good after I backed it off and basically finger tightened it. I've done lots of trailer wheel bearings just by hand with no torque wrench, they all turned out fine.

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I looked at NAPA and couldn't find it. Can you post a part number?

 

I think its this one.

 

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7769179_0109503479

 

 

I searched Napa online before I walked into the store to buy my CV axles, and I was just going to buy the Dana 44 and grind the tabs off. Then it was just sitting there hanging next to the Dana 44 one. Now suddenly I can find it on the website. The package will say it is for Dana 60 axles and Isuzu Troopers. Thats how you know you found the right one.

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I think its this one.

 

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7769179_0109503479

 

 

I searched Napa online before I walked into the store to buy my CV axles, and I was just going to buy the Dana 44 and grind the tabs off. Then it was just sitting there hanging next to the Dana 44 one. Now suddenly I can find it on the website. The package will say it is for Dana 60 axles and Isuzu Troopers. Thats how you know you found the right one.

 

 

I think that tool is the reason no one has found it before, i know while i was looking for it, i was trying to find that 2 pronged claw looking thing that the FSM uses in its diagrams.

 

I know when i rebuild my CV's and replace my bearings ill be picking up that tool.

 

Thanks Trogdor

 

-Kyle

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Yes its marked for the Isuzu trooper for my 2003 pathy...

Dont remember where i got it but was not hard to find, Autozone ?

These bearings are the old school double tapered rollers used forever, and are easy to work on and last forever.

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