02psychopathy Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Im planing on installing my OME coils and NX4 spacers this weekend...for those of you who have done this already do you have any tips to make the installation smoother, or something that took you a while to figure out? im kinda a novice with mechanical things ( although it seems this is very straight forward) but any sort of advice would be great! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky2 Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 (edited) Don't do it. Suspension Lift Extending the strut assembly opens a whole new can of worms. Coils that are stiffer or longer basically increase the length of the strut assembly and although this creates lift, this set-up increaes the control arm angle and alters the overall geometry thus increasing the CV angles and induces postitive camber angles. Putting a strut spacer on top of this set-up only adds to this lift scenario. Sub Frame Drop is the easiest and best way to lift a Indepenent Front Suspension. When you block a vehicle you're just lowering the sub frame/body lift and keeping all the angles the same. Sure, you gotta lengthen the steering link, brake lines and tear into the vehicle with that "no turning back" feeling but it's worth it IMHO Edited December 10, 2012 by rocky2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 (edited) Lets not blow it completely out of proportion.... CV angles are alittle steeper, get hubs and that point is null. The front end wont be spinning 100% of the time so less wear and tear and better fuel mileage. Camber issues can be fixed very easily I would not worry, especially with the OME coils. People have been running the AC coils for years with no issues. For the install, rear is super easy, disconnect the rear sway bar and jack up the truck, let the rear end sag, but don't stretch the brake lines. Pull old coils out and put new ones in, jack rear up and re-install endlink Front, I would highly recommend having a shop build your struts, it is a super sketch thing to do by yourself with cheap compressors, It can be done though,( I put my own AC coils on,I built a little cage around the strut just in case) 3 bolts up top, two on the bottom, sway bar endlink, brake hose clip, and yank it out. Edited December 11, 2012 by SilverPath 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Here's a thread from when I did my lift. I used the AC kit but the principals are still the same....... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32829-starting-to-get-really-frustrated-with-ac-2-lift/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 We didn't do the strut spacers but we are really happy with the OME lift. Here's ours: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33480-2k-qx4-lift/ X2 on the strut compressor, we were able to borrow a friends shop and use his for that in advance, even in the strut cage it can be a little creepy compressing the new springs. Only issue we did not plan for was a severely corroded front sway bar link, had to destroy the original and it took a few days to get a new ones here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky2 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 I'm not blowing anything out of proportion "silverpath". I did a SFD after I did the AC coils. Have you done a SFD yet? I hope you have or you're speaking opinion without experience. It's pretty easy if you ask me. You know and I know that fitting the strut assembly in position and getting the knuckle in to the strut mounting location was interesting at best. Sure, pulling the stock out is easy but going back in with altered is not. You realize immediately the whole thing is fishy when as you suggest, "I would recommend having a shop build your struts." Oh common DUDE! and what kind of remedy is just put locking hubs and that cures CV angles. WRONG just cover-up! I used the camber bolts and it is not enough correction. Do you see where I'm going with this "blowing it out of proportion" You say put the springs in and then add this, due that and build some of these. Come on !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky2 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 I'm not trying to be a "know it all" but this forum is a discussion board is it not? IMHO the SFD should match your spring height increase or just due the SFD and be done with it!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky2 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Go for it "02silverpathy" let us know how it goes and you be the judge. I'll accept your opinion. Be safe and have fun Rocky2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02psychopathy Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share Posted December 12, 2012 thanks for the advice rocky2, i havent seen too many complains about coil lifts on here and 90% of people who have em recommend them. I have warn hubs already and i think they will cover up cv issues But if anyone else has had some serious issues with coil lifts id be all ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Not sure if you saw my previous post but there is a lot of discussion on this subject here.......... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32829-starting-to-get-really-frustrated-with-ac-2-lift/ I'm going with a SFD hopefully next year. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky2 Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Hey "theexbrit" Let me know if you need anything at all and I'll see what I can do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Thanks mate, I'll definitely be hitting you up next year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 I'm not blowing anything out of proportion "silverpath". I did a SFD after I did the AC coils. Have you done a SFD yet? I hope you have or you're speaking opinion without experience. It's pretty easy if you ask me. You know and I know that fitting the strut assembly in position and getting the knuckle in to the strut mounting location was interesting at best. Sure, pulling the stock out is easy but going back in with altered is not. You realize immediately the whole thing is fishy when as you suggest, "I would recommend having a shop build your struts." Oh common DUDE! and what kind of remedy is just put locking hubs and that cures CV angles. WRONG just cover-up! I used the camber bolts and it is not enough correction. Do you see where I'm going with this "blowing it out of proportion" You say put the springs in and then add this, due that and build some of these. Come on !! Um, no where did I say I was talking about your SFD, I did not even mention SFD so don't put words in my post that aren't there.... Cheap strut compressors are made for small spring rate coils, such as stock. Not 3rd party lift coils which have a much larger rate. The compressors are cast and have thin "fingers" That will not hold up to a lot of forces. It can be done, it has been done by many on here however including me. I said have a shop do it because it is not considered safe practice, Other than actually building the strut, the re-installation is the reverse of removal, since with no weight on the old assembly, they are fully extended. With the new assembly the strut is in the same orientation, and fully extended. You do know you can use 2 bolts per side right? If your shop could not get the camber issue fixed with an adjustment of +-4 full inches then find another shop or the upper plate with the arrow is not pointing the correct way. Yes the locking hubs are a cover up for the increase of cv angle. However it doesn't matter what angle they are at when they aren't rotating.... and the only movement is in the vertical axis. Yes when 4wd is engaged and the hubs are locked they have more wear and tear then at a stock angle but for the 10-20 miles of trail riding it won't pose much of an issue, and hasn't to several members here including myself. Yes this is a discussion board 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky2 Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 (edited) I'm sorry, I thought you were responding to my commemt, "Sub Frame Drop is the easiest and best way to lift a Indepenent Front Suspension" 1) The increased force required to assemble springs is primarily due to short strut length. Not to mention the top-out issues created 2) I had to really struggle getting the strut and knuckle mounting area into place. Rotating the strut and knucle to the front of vehicle and using a pry bar and stepping on the control arm just to get it in position to bolt it up again. Seemed weird to me! 3) I copied performance strut design and elongated the upper bolt hole for easy and plenty of camber adjustment 4) And as for the CV angles and hubs, give me a break. Several members including myself think the AC springs alone cause alot of problems, read some write-ups or live with the funky set-up I was giving the guy my 2 cents and you said, "Lets not blow this out of proportion". Edited December 12, 2012 by rocky2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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