If its not one thing, its another....

[MaritimeMan]

Ok I haven't had the time to take the wheel off yet, but just as a preliminary symptoms. I was drivin on the freeway today, and hit some medium- light traffic, no biggie, stick, so minimal brake usage. Get off the freeway, and smell a burning smell. Friend notices same and asks if it's commin from me. Not sure at this point, but the smell is definately brakes. When we stop, the right rear wheel is smokin. Nothin major, but a thin white, whispy smoke commin from the caliper area.

 

So...

 

Just a quick check to verify things to look at when I go get the wheel off, as well as anything I missed

 

Slide pins

Amount of brake pad left

Emergency Cable play

 

Anything else?

 

There was no mush whatsoever is the pedal, but it did seem I had to feather the clutch a bit when stopped to get started, and keep on the gas to keep her rollin. Any input is much appreciated, I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

 

M.M.

[88pathoffroad]

Was it wet outside at the time?

 

Check your e-brake. If your axle seal is leaking onto the ebrake pads it'll do that, but the regular disc brakes will still work OK...

 

If you hear a grinding noise, stop driving it and take it apart. You DON'T want to be stranded on the side of the 580/880 with a ruined rear axle and no bearing...

[MaritimeMan]

Nah, it was dry out, no noise. I'm gonna take it apart tomarrow and check the pads/ calipers. I checked em about a year ago, and they were at about 60%, so the might be due, plus the caliper is original, so I think they might be shot. I'll check into that as well though 88.

[Precise1]

Hey MM. I'd say it's slide pins, piston in the caliper not 'free' or air in the system. Regardless, your calipers are not retracting... Good news it that it's a relatively cheap and easy fix... Just for kicks, try bleeding them first...

 

Bernard

[MaritimeMan]

Ok, pulled it all apart today, rear, both sides. Interesting stuff. First the right side. Pulled the lower bolt, and couldn't for the life of me swing the caliper up. Had to get a 2' pry bar to get it off the pads, but once off, slide pins slid smoothly and freely. The outter pad was down to about 20% while the inner was around 50%. OK so that points to the slide pins not workin right. Pull the whole caliper off, then the rotor. It was blued on the inner ring where the e-brake engages. Checked the e-brake pads, no real signs of wear. ok, wierd. Also, the brake pads were worn at an angle, evenly matched on each pad. You put em together and they were straight, but the pad surface was the angle. Once again, slide pin.

 

Inspection of the caliper itself didn't show anything untill the brake hose was removed. Piston stuck in place pretty solid, at least with just hand pressure. Ok, caliper shot, on to the next side.

 

The left side released just fine, but still needed a pry bar to get it up out of the way. Upper slide pin stuck. Normal wear on the pads, but that pin wouldn't let go with a solid beating. Taking the hose off that one led to smooth piston operation.

 

Tested the E-brake with the calipers and rotors off so I could see the pad movement, and everything moved freely, and returned to it's normal location when taken off. This had led me to believe that for whatever reason, it stuck on the right side, causing the bluing of the rotor, and just needs a bit o WD40 fix. As for the calipers, they are original, and being 212k on her, they just might be due.

 

Found a new "loaded" (Brake job in a box) for 84 bucks a side, so not as bad as I would have thought. Was thinkin about 100 a side, so I'm happy. A nice big 900 mile road trip up to Seattle here in a couple days, so this should solve the problem. I hope.

 

M.M.