Post lift

[nige]

Well I finally got all the parts on. I went with the calmini coils in the back because they fit the energy suspension coil spring isolators perfectly, and i'm happy with the result. I got a solid 2 inches on the rear end. The AC UCA's went well, although the new upper ball joint bolts don't fit perfectly into the 4 holes (the holes were a little big in diameter) and this is leading me to question how well i'll be able to get the front end aligned after this. So I went to reindex the T-bars, but I ran into a litte trouble. I loosened off the adjuster bolt to take the tension off the bar, but I'm having difficulty figuring out how the adjuster separates from the actual t-bar. I was thinking about removing the front part circled in red, but i'm unsure as to what it will do.

So in the meantime, i've just cranked the adjuster as far as it'll go (the bolt is nearly touching the bottom of the body) but I know they can be cranked more to offset the "hotrod stance" my truck is currently sitting at. So i'm looking for a little guidance from anyone who's done this before. My household jack and stands are super ghetto so i'll have to take the truck back to a friendly mechanic who lets me use his hoist and tools. So when all is said and done and i'm happy with the front end, i will post some before/after pics. Thanks guys esp. 88pathoffroad for the parts

[Earth1]

Hey dude, I just did mine too. That front "collar" that you circled that's connected with 3 bolts is what I removed. BE SURE to carefully mark the collar and the anchor point. You can also mark the back of the tbar and the crossmember for a second reference. My marks were half-a$$, in some gunk, and I had a heck of a time figuring out my original location. It would have also helped me to make the scratch mark on the tbar itself fairly long. When I pulled the collar back to turn it, it covered my reference point on the tbar. I removed the nuts on top of the adjuster bolt at the rear of the tbars, removed the collar at the front, and turned the outside of the collar 3 splines toward the ground. Put the collar back on before the adjuster nuts, I learned that the hard way. You might need to have a second person push the wheel down to get the first nut started on the adjuster bolt. That was enough to put my tbar at the middle of it's adjustment range and to get the front the same height as the back. My adjuster bolt has about 2 inches on top. I think you can also get the bar loose by removing the bolts at the back of the tbar on the crossmember (at the front of the photo), but I wasn't sure about that. Please correct me if I'm wrong anyone, but everything seems fine on my rig. Hope that helps.

[Precise1]

Hey Skrill... I think I know this one well. Just loosen the 3 bolts for the front t-bar mount, no need to take them all the way out as some of them are a PITA to get at, and this just allows some slop so things are not binding... To the rear, back off the adjuster ALL the way. Now you can drop the T-bar cross member, and everything is free. Maybe there is an easier way, but thats what I did, and it was accessable and straight forward. You can also remove the C clip in the front facing side of the T-bar cross member (this may take 2 screw drivers, ingenuity and cursing as you chase it in a circle) but I don't think it's is necessary this way.. Just remember to mark the T-bar indexing BEFORE you pull them. I used carb cleaner and a brush to clean them before hand, and marked them with a construction marker (read 'crayon'). Personally, I think a spline or two is sufficient depending on how high you plan to go (how old and saggy the rig is), but apparently some people do 3... It would be good to have some grease on hand to re-lube the splines also... Good luck !

 

Bernard

[88pathoffroad]

I pulled my rear anchors. You don't have to drop the crossmember to do it, it just takes some finagling to get the anchor off the t-bar. Remember there's a c-clip on the end of the t-bar before you can take the anchor off. Then the anchor will come off and slide out of the crossmember.

 

DEFINITELY mark both the t-bar and the anchor as to which spline is which before you take them apart. Rotate two or three splines (I'd say 3), then slide the anchor back onto the t-bar and reassemble after cleaning the bolts and everything.