DantheMayun Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Ok I put my 3 inch bl on and now my alternator will not charge my my battery and interior electric will not work. However, I found out when I rev my engine up to 6-7k everything turns on and stays working until I shut the engine off. Keep in mind I didn't have this problem until after my body lift and I cant seem to find the cause. I have no idea where to start to debug the problem I'm sort of an idiot when it comes to electric. Any help would be greatly appreciated I don't want to have to surrender my rig to a mechanic and deal with the embarrassment just yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 All the wiring is tight from the alternator to the battery, Nothing works when the battery is plugged in such as the horn dash components rear wiper. Oddly enough the windshield wipers and light for the clock is the only thing that will work. Another thing I should point out is that I can only start the engine if I turn the key to ignition before I plug in the battery or else a "theft mode" will start up where all the lights flash and siren goes off. I suspect a broken wire somewhere or bad relay and to be honest I have no idea what to look for PLEASE help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Sounds to me you have a ground issue somewhere. Unfortunately, I have a uni-body and can not attest to the body lift but, it seems like you have broken a ground some where in the engine area. Any one like to chime in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Check the battery cables. You may have ripped one attachment point on the cable off somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 can a moderator merge this and the OP's other thread asking the same thing maybe into one thread ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 Battery cables all good. Where do you think I should try next? Merge if necessary, i'm trying to get anybody's attention that knows how to help me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 I'm here, you checked the battery cables, the large one's or the small ones that go into the plugs too? Where on the East Coast are you located? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 From what i can tell, this hasnt been mentioned yet.. There's a ground strap that goes from the alty to the body, did that get ripped off in the process of the BL? Just an idea.. Also, there's a few more grounds that go from the body to the engine around the battery area. Maybe check those as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Yup everything is tight I live in Hanover, pa I cant seem to find a ground from my alternator it looks like one is supposed to come out near it but goes back into the wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 you can as a test, if you have a set of jumper cables, clip one end to the alternator housing and the other end to a ground point, negative battery post, bolt, etc, and see if it makes any difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 Grounding it didn't work. I found a wire not sure if related. Here's a vid of where its at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 (edited) Just re-watched your video, thought the end of the wire was on the battery side at first, so the wire ends near the air filter? Is there a hood pin in that area? The wire does not look like a factory wire as it has no wrap on it. May be for a hood pin possibly, or an old hood pin?? Don't think an alarm would kill all the power in the truck though. I'll look at the FSM wiring diagram to see if I can figure anything out for you, will post back. Edited August 27, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 (edited) OK, what I would do is start at the beginning, first do you have a test light? If yes continue, if not go get one. I would connect the positive terminal and tighten it than connect the ground clamp of the test light to the negative battery terminal, make sure the test light works ALWAYS DO THIS FIRST !! Worst thing is troubleshooting and assuming the test light works only to find out it doesn't !! Touch the tip of the test light to the positive terminal to confirm it is working than move on. now, check for power at each side of the connectors coming off the positive terminal, the FSM shows 4 fusible links (fusible links will look like small wire going into a large center section with a small wire coming out) coming off the positive terminal Here are the 2 connectors that come off the positive terminal (this is my truck I replaced the battery terminals so I put all the small wires together): Closer view of the 2 connectors: one of those feeds the fuse box inside the truck, so no power thru the fusible link, no power at the fuse box, no power to anything if you need to poke the wire to test for power that is ok, you can always wrap some electrical tape over the small hole you make later. If you have power at the fusible links both sides than you need to move on, if no power on each side of the fusible links than that may be your problem. from what I can see in the FSM wiring diagram, one of the fusible links feeds the door lock timer, one goes to the Rear Anti lock brakes one goes to the adjustable shocks ( if you have them) and one feeds the fuse box so the first three shouldn't be a concern right now Check for power at the positive battery terminal, working away from it, thru the fusible links and report back GOOD LUCK Edited August 27, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 A fusible link connector is likely but I think he would not be able to start the truck. I would check those out anyway... It's most likely one of the ignition system relays that are not working. They are positioned right above the fuse holder in the dashboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 K I have current through 3/4 wires. broken one leads to passenger side wires. Where should I be looking for a break or buy new links? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 which wire has no power? What color? where did you check it that it has no power? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 Its the biggest white wire I checked it right after the link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Is it the large white wire in my pic above? Left side plug? Per the FSM it looks like the large white wire goes to the alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted September 6, 2012 Author Share Posted September 6, 2012 Yes very left one. That would explain alt not charging Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 (edited) Do you have power on the other side where the wires are green going into the plug? Do you have power at both green wires? If yes to both questions I would follow that thick white wire to see where that harness goes, it may be secured to the inner fender and when you raised the body it snapped causing the noise you heard when you did the body lift. I can look at mine later after work. Possibly when you rev the engine high the wire is making contact than when you just let it idle it breaks the contact? You could as a test run a wire use a size about the same as the size of the thick white wire (10 gauge maybe) from the positive terminal directly to the stud on the alternator and see if that cures all your problems. That would verify if there is a problem with the thick white wire. You could use a clip on each end and just clip the end one onto the positive terminal one onto the nut on the stud on the rear of the alternator. Edited September 6, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted September 12, 2012 Author Share Posted September 12, 2012 YES! Short circuiting it with a 8 gauge worked! Everything starting working instantly! So the question is... what do I need to replace. Sorry its taking a while to do this.. I work a lot and the time I have off is usually in the boiling heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 (edited) So you ran a wire from the positive battery terminal to the stud on the alternator and everything worked? I wouldn't call it short circuiting, more of jumping the harness. You said previously " Its the biggest white wire I checked it right after the link" did you have power on the other side of the plug where the 2 green wires are? If you don't have power on the green wire side than possibly that is the fusible link and if so you can probably just replace the link. If you have power on the green wire side of the plug but not going thru the plug to the thick white wire than it could be a problem with the plug, if this is the case I would unplug the connector and check for power at the green wires than check inside the plug. Make sure to check the plug that you unplug that contains the thick white wire to make sure there is no problem with the pin or pins inside the plug. If you had power at the thick white wire near the plug but not a foot away than that would indicate a problem with that wire and than you would need to follow the thick white wire to find the problem. Glad to hear your making progress. Let me know what you find I'll be on all night. Edited September 12, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Ok I found where the wire was broken and fixed it. Now I'm still having the starting issues. I checked for connectivity at the plug that comes back from the starter and I have no power. But If I put the clip on the positive terminal at the battery and test the plug 3/4 light up. I'm assuming the wires somewhere along the line of the plug i'm testing is the problem because I can hold the key to start, unplug and plug in the negative terminal at the battery and I can get it to start. However if I unplug that plug and try the same thing it wont start at all. Am I right? What should I do now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Where was the wire broken? You checked for connectivity or do you mean power? At what plug coming back from the starter? What clip do you put on the positive terminal? when you say you tested the plug and 3/4 light up are you referring again to the 4 wires coming off the positive terminal? When both battery terminals are on and tight the truck won't start, does it do anything when you try to start it? The service manual seems to show one wire coming off the positive terminal, that goes to a plug that has 4 wires coming out of it, one of these wires a white wire with a black stripe goes to the ignition key, from there it comes back under the hood to the starter relay and than down to the starter solenoid. The plug with the 4 wires that you say only 3 have power may be the fusible link, and again that may be your entire problem. Get back to me when you can and we'll go from there, we'll get your truck straightened out yet !!!! If you were closer I'd be glad to come over and help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 I made another vid... easier to show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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