dynomax Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Heres a video i watched a couple times on an 02 pathfinder. The guy is pretty detailed until he gets to compressing the spring, then it just goes to photos. hes actually just changing the strut bearing, but gives a good video of the strut removal anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Thanks for the video, all this is good info for someone that wants to attempt this. But remember, he is compressing a standard spring, not a lift spring. Those pokey little spring compressors he uses should NOT be used for a lift spring, if anything gives on them while that spring is compressed (assuming you can even get them to compress a lift spring. I couldn't), you're toast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the video, all this is good info for someone that wants to attempt this. But remember, he is compressing a standard spring, not a lift spring. Those pokey little spring compressors he uses should NOT be used for a lift spring, if anything gives on them while that spring is compressed (assuming you can even get them to compress a lift spring. I couldn't), you're toast Sure, I don't advocate anyone do it that doesn't feel comfortable, but for me who has never taken a strut out, or changed even a regular coil spring, this was a good video. I mostly used it to help in the strut removal process, thhe pics at the end I never looked at. And I compressed my lift springs (Mine were Ironman vs OME/AC, I'm sure hte AC have a higher spring rate than the ironmans for sure) with standard compressors (the with the U bolts on them that go around the spring), and used a second set for safety(??!?) With my springs, at no point did I feel unsafe in what I was doing. I would recomend this type of compressor I borrowed with the ubolts, compared to the typical kind, they don't slide and shift like those. This was the compressor I used on the struts: http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-Spring-Compressor-W80555/dp/B000NHWP8U Compressing these was nowhere the deal I thought it was, and I would do this again (but not real soon) I found a couple differences. My truck has apparently after market moog drag links, and there was a 19mm nut on the back to hold while you took the 18m nut off the stud. This was a lot nicer than having to use an allen key and a crescent wrench. i was able to use my electric (oh I know i'm sad) impact. I have airtools , but only a 4 gallon compressor -- haha. Edited April 6, 2012 by dynomax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Wow, I'm surprised that you managed to compress the springs with a regular spring compressor, we had a hell of a time & it nearly stripped the threads on the spring compressor! As you say, maybe the AC springs are higher compression rate. Those are pretty good spring compressors though, the U-bolt arrangement makes them a lot safer. I was really afraid the little hook was going to come off the spring at any moment. By the "drag links" I'm guessing you mean the "sway bar links" that I mentioned only taking the top one off? That does seem a lot easier than the allen key method to stop the bolt from turning. Funny, England, Canada & the USA all use different terms for things. Nations divided by a common language to paraphrase Winston Churchill After 22 years in the states I still use a few British terms & phrases although I'm mostly "Americanised" in my speech now P.S. Don't worry about admitting you use an electric impact, we'll keep it our little secret :laugh: :laugh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Thinking back, we used the claw type to compress it just a little at first, in order to get the ubolt compressors on at their maximum compression, then just used the claw ones for safety. the claw ones tended to slip and slide around the coil, where the ubolt type stayed across from each other and tended not to slide sideways. I haven't found the spring rate of the ironman 4x4 coils yet,. but im going to find it somewhere! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 The shop that did my lift were worried about it snapping if the axle dropped too much so they put a spacer between the distribution block & the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Here's another question, after a lift of say 2-3 inches how much do you need to adjust the headlights so you don't blind people? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow4me Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 The only reason I am lifting my truck is to blind you. Don' t take the fun out of it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 You shouldn't have to worry about adjusting the lights with a modest 2-3" lift. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 The only reason I am lifting my truck is to blind you. Don' t take the fun out of it. Aha! I'm watching out for you next time I'm in Michigan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clkindred Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Here's another question, after a lift of say 2-3 inches how much do you need to adjust the headlights so you don't blind people? Yea I would not worry too much about it because with the AC lift the truck is still raked like stock (pointing down at the front) so the headlights point down to the ground the same, just a couple inches higher. Now if you level the pathy like if you did the 1 inch strut spacers, you change the angle that the headlights point and might run into issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Now if you level the pathy like if you did the 1 inch strut spacers, you change the angle that the headlights point and might run into issues. I haven't been "flashed" by on coming cars yet with my extra 1" of lift in the front. I guess it is no different than loading down the back with heavy cargo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 I haven't been "flashed" by on coming cars yet with my extra 1" of lift in the front. I guess it is no different than loading down the back with heavy cargo? I haven't tested mine yet. But in my F150 with the 2" leveling kit I was getting flashed after installarion. I adjusted the headlights down a bit. the ford was easy, not sure how to do it on these r50's... never looked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clkindred Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 I haven't been "flashed" by on coming cars yet with my extra 1" of lift in the front. I guess it is no different than loading down the back with heavy cargo? That's a good point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 It looks pretty easy to adjust the headlights. Just a couple of screws, unless I'm mistaken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 Well, finally!!! Here's pic of my desert cruiser with the AC lift.......... & a closer view.......... Took it up quite a bit. Rides really nice, the KYB's & Bilsteins give a great ride! The tires are 31x10.5x15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow4me Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 That looks really good! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Well, finally!!! Here's pic of my desert cruiser with the AC lift.......... & a closer view.......... Took it up quite a bit. Rides really nice, the KYB's & Bilsteins give a great ride! The tires are 31x10.5x15 I like it, the look without the flares makes your wheel backspacing look less, and the lift taller. I contemplate taking mine off, but not sure how to deal with the holes. What backspacing are those wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazthecat Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 well all of this was useful advice as I am looking into purchasing or fabricating a lift for my 96 R50 ... My first project will be a engine swap , my rig is a US model with over 310000 miles on it ! I would like to go with a turbo system....but I have more homework to do first ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazthecat Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 And dynomax... I'm originaly from the Miramichi , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazthecat Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 I don't think I'd be taking the flares off mine , I pulled them off to check for rust and I realy didn't like the look....I would probably feal diferentley if it didn't leave behind all the holes ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 @Dynomax, they are the standard wheels (I think) that came with the car. If I did it right I measured the back spacing as 5" positive. That is why the tire is so close to the strut. I could put a spacer or negative backspace wheels to put 33" tires on it, but the wheels would stick out about 3" or so beyond the fender. I see tons of trucks driving around with wheels sticking out at least that, sometimes more, but I don't want to take a chance on getting pulled over. As for the holes, I got some door panel clips from my local hardware store & stuck them in the holes until I can decide whether to put the flares back on or make custom ones. I also sprayed a "fake flare" around each wheel arch using that spray on rubberize stuff for tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 As for the holes, I got some door panel clips from my local hardware store & stuck them in the holes until I can decide whether to put the flares back on or make custom ones. I also sprayed a "fake flare" around each wheel arch using that spray on rubberize stuff for tools. Now that is a great idea. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 (edited) Ha ha, thanks. I think they give it a slightly "Steampunk" look because they kind of look like huge rivets! :laugh: Also, that's what the Mile marker hubs look like installed if anyone needs a visual. Edited April 9, 2012 by theexbrit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltsnotme Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Ha ha, thanks. I think they give it a slightly "Steampunk" look because they kind of look like huge rivets! :laugh: Also, that's what the Mile marker hubs look like installed if anyone needs a visual. And this is what they look like if you cut holes in the center caps: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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