Yet another EMU/AC what do I get question

[arista5]

Hey guys (and possibly girls) I'm new here but not to my pathfinder. I currently have an 04 SE 4x4. Recently I have been doing some offroad driving with some friends in their Jeeps, Land Rovers, FJ's and other. My stock suspension is obviously limiting me and I feel I want to do a lift to be able to enjoy more of the areas that I shy away from.

 

My Pathfinder is currently a Daily Driver, and will need to retain its street-ability and reliability. If I can save the comfort well then all the better. What is the difference between the HD/MED springs? Currently have 90k on the clock so I am due for a suspension upgrade. (slight sag in the rear)

 

SO as for my question, Which kit is best for what I am looking to have? I am realistic knowing this wont be a crawler or anything over the top. I am looking to dabble with some of the good trails. I currently do not have any problems with the ones i go on, however a friend got himself stuck in his stock suspension durango so that is what prompted me to look into a suspension lift.

 

I have read a lot of people like the EMU parts, and others with the AC parts. My question is I see so many people discussing what parts they put into their combos that I am not sure whats needed for me. I dont know of any offroad shops in my area as well its NY and only about 15miles from JFK Airport.

 

If I went with the EMU setup or AC setup, what parts would I need (including part numbers would be even better)? I will be doing this in my Garage so getting all of the parts would be important. I was reviewing the Rocky-road, davesport, Nisstec websites but no one seems to list out whats needed.

 

aside from the strut/spring/shock answer, what else is needed? I see people addding spacers, hubs, camber bolts, something with their sway bars and more.

 

** edit ** My tires are brand new (less than 500 mile) Geolander 255-65-16 and I tow an ATV trailer sometimes with my Polaris 700EFI on it.

Thank you to all for reading, and anyone for answering

Edited January 29, 2012 by arista5

[xplitive]

I just had the OME HD/MD springs installed this week. Here is what I bought new and had installed:

 

Front - OME HD, KYB struts and strut bearings reused everything else (boots, mounts, etc - they were original, the boots could've used replacing). Also had done at the same time: new axles to replace my original blown ones and warn hubs. You do not need to buy the warn hubs, I wanted the extra gas mileage (also they may not fit your year wheels).

 

Rear - OME MD, KYB Gas Adjust shocks, dorman control arms. I bought the dorman arms because I thought mine were shot, after removing my old ones, did not need to replace the control arms.

 

Prior measurements from center of hub to bottom of flare: Front - 18.5", Rear - 17.5". Need to measure new height and get my before and after pics. The first day the truck had the stinkbug stance but it leveled out and looks pretty even maybe slightly higher in the rear. Ride is great, was worried it might be too harsh. best I can say relate it too is my FJ Cruisers ride. Oh, I have the same size tires as you. Thinking 265's when I need to replace these.

Edited January 29, 2012 by xplitive

[devonianwalk]

First, welcome to the forum! Please take photos of your before/during/after lift install. Most of us R50 people have been down this road and we are more than willing to help you out with any questions that you will have.

 

Springs - It seems that everyone has their own opinion on the springs (AC or OME). I went with the AC's because they offered most lift (2") I got mine here

 

Struts - but, we all have the same opinion on the struts. KYB-GR2 are pretty much just stock replacements that have fewer complaints than the other name brands. There is an overwhelming opinion on using genuine Nissan strut mounts and bearings. I have yet to read a complaint on the factory replacements but, several complaints on the cheap AC's. You can find these at a local auto parts store (or Ebay). They are more common than you think!

 

Camber bolts - I used the camber bolts to take away the "bull dog" stance that the front tires tend to do with the lift. I used two kits (two bolts per strut) and got them here

 

Strut spacers - You made reference to the NX4 strut spacer. I installed them to level out the "rake" and make my Pathy have an even stance (they mount between the strut tower and strut). One of our members here makes them. You can find them here

 

Rear Shocks - We also very on opinion of which shock to use in the rear. Some of us run the Rancho RS5000, others run the Bilstein's. Either way, you will need to replace them as the stock shocks are to short for the lift. I got mine here

 

Manual hubs - The only reason to install the manual hubs is for the option of disengaging the front CV axels. You see, by lifting the front suspension you exaggerate the angle of which the CV rotates. This will shorten the life of the CV boots and CV itself. With the manual hub dissengaged the CV wont spin and therefore will greatly reduce the daily wear and tear. Some of us have seen a slight increase in MPG's due to the lessened rolling resistance as well! I got mine here

 

Sway bar - You don't need to do any thing special here. I removed my sway bar to increase the rear flex. I do notice the body roll on the high way though. I have considered reinstalling mine but, that would require me getting on the ground so I try to find other things to work on my Pathy!

 

Hopefully this helps you. Others will chime in with their opinions but, this is the direction I went. You can follow my build here >>>

Edited January 29, 2012 by devonianwalk

[arista5]

Thank you for the replies. Obviously it prompts more questions.

 

If I were to not put the spacer and leave the rake will i experience the CV Boot issue?

 

If I went with the OME springs offering the .5 and adding to the sag in the front would that still give me the CV issue?

 

What other than stiffness is the difference between the HD and MD springs?

 

How is the ride quality with the HD Springs?

 

lastly, barring any broken parts coming off if should those parts cover the whole lift?

 

 

 

the only real issue i have with the hub swap is resale. while i have zero interest in selling it now, i know that would be a negative with a prospective buyer and will limit the field of buyers.

[xplitive]

just went to get my measurements - looks like I am at 20" center of hub to bottom of fender flare after lift all around.

 

Also - sounds like you are thinking suspension will make you more capable of road. That is only one part of the deal. Suspension lift allows you to run bigger tires which give you more ground clearance. At the moment, all this lift is giving me is increased driveline angles and a bigger gap at the fender well. Oh and a much improved ride. If your suspension is truly shot and you are bottoming out on the rear, it will be very obvious when you look and see marks from the bump stop hitting.

[arista5]

just went to get my measurements - looks like I am at 20" center of hub to bottom of fender flare after lift all around.

 

Also - sounds like you are thinking suspension will make you more capable of road. That is only one part of the deal. Suspension lift allows you to run bigger tires which give you more ground clearance. At the moment, all this lift is giving me is increased driveline angles and a bigger gap at the fender well. Oh and a much improved ride. If your suspension is truly shot and you are bottoming out on the rear, it will be very obvious when you look and see marks from the bump stop hitting.

 

 

i definitely hit the bumpstop if i hit the right (or wrong) way.

 

i am going to measure mine now

[arista5]

17.5" in the back

18.5" in the front

 

empty cargo area

 

both center of wheel (stock SE 16") to bottom of fender. obvious sag in the back. thankfully not as bad as the 4runners

[arista5]

from KYB and will be good reference for others like me

 

KYB is retiring the GR-2 (silver) brand name and switching to Excel-G (black).

 

This is a cosmetic change only - it's actually the exact same product on the inside. There is no internal difference, no change in quality, performance, or application. Only the product name and color have change.

 

The US and Canada were the only countries to use the GR-2 name with the silver color. By switching to the Excel-G name with the black color, the US and Canada join the global KYB community.

 

 

 

 

*question removed*

i realized my answer for the correct strut numbers

Edited January 30, 2012 by arista5

[arista5]

is this cart correct for a proper strut/shock combo

 

will this set of camber bolts work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/J-Power-FRONT-Camber-Kit-Cam-Bolt-14mm-Import-Domestic-/160708451165?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3APathfinder&vxp=mtr&hash=item256af85b5d

 

I am still trying to figure out the springs

[xplitive]

The advance auto parts website has the correct pn's and they are GR2. I just entered for my year and type vehicle. I bought mine through there with various discounts they had, don't know if they are the cheapest place though.. too lazy to dig out the part numbers right now. Stock application rear KYB shocks seem fine, I haven't noticed any unusual noises yet from being too short. I had asked for the correct length rear shock on here but didn't get any responses on measurements. Note: The ranchos, price wise, I believe are cheaper than KYBs.

I don't think you need camber bolts and a strut spacer with the OME springs but do with AC. I haven't done an alignment yet and not sure if I will. Seems to drive straight and no apparent crazy camber/caster.

Edited January 29, 2012 by xplitive

[arista5]

The advance auto parts website has the correct pn's and they are GR2. I just entered for my year and type vehicle. I bought mine through there with various discounts they had, don't know if they are the cheapest place though.. too lazy to dig out the part numbers right now. Stock application rear KYB shocks seem fine, I haven't noticed any unusual noises yet from being too short. I had asked for the correct length rear shock on here but didn't get any responses on measurements. Note: The ranchos, price wise, I believe are cheaper than KYBs.

I don't think you need camber bolts and a strut spacer with the OME springs but do with AC. I haven't done an alignment yet and not sure if I will. Seems to drive straight and no apparent crazy camber/caster.

 

 

thank you, do you know the difference between the Comfort duty, HD and MD springs?

 

rocky road only offers MD and Comfort Duty in a package or the HD and only one type as a rear

Edited January 30, 2012 by arista5

[xplitive]

I think its essentially a heavier load rated spring therefore maybe a stiffer ride. Rugged Rocks, a sponsor here, was the cheapest I could find and they have npora discount code posted here. HD/MD is a very popular combo and I'm glad I went with it.

Edited February 3, 2012 by xplitive

[arista5]

Picked up the Strut Bearings and Mounts today from the Nissan Dealer.

 

waiting on the rest. going with the EMU lift and the KYB Gas A Justs.

 

 

does anyone know the best/most affordable place to buy the springs from? looks like shipping is $55 from Rocky-Road. was hoping to try and save a few bucks somewhere.

 

** edit **

 

i didnt see you posted rugged rocks has a discount. going to look for it now. thank you

Edited February 5, 2012 by arista5