JayCon Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Guess it's time to get the Pathfinder running again. It's been sitting for a few years but still cranks. But when it cranks the engine starts smoking. I can typical work my way through any repair with good instructions. I have access to a garage and tools, so where do I start? I'm guessing the valve gaskets need replacing. I do have the owners manuals. What else is going to have to be replaced? Thanks in advance for any and all help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krmiller07 Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 I'd start by squirting or pouring a few onces of Marvel Mystery oil down the throttle body and then adding the rest to the fuel tank. Diconnect the or pull the fuel pump relay located on the passenger side fender in the engine compartment. The take all the spark plgs out and turn the engine over with the started to lossen up the piston rings and coat the valve sten seals. Put the spark plugs back in, reinstall the fuel pump relay and start it up and let it idle or try to keep it idleing until it's up to opporating temp.Don't race or rev the motor exsessively. It will probably smoke alot until the Marvel mystery oils burns away. While the pugs are out check or repalce them if neccasary and give the cap and rotor a good look as well. If every thing lloks good or has been replaced start driving it. Continue adding Marvel mystery oil to a the fuel evry fill up for about 3 tanks of gas. BTW thesee engines do not have 'valve gaskets' the have valve stem seals and valve cover gaskets. Another product worth using is 'Sea Foam' which is available from most auto parts stores. This too can be added directly to the fuel when filling up or by sucking into the intake system by disconnecting a vacuum line such as the one attached to the brake booster and slowly pouring the sea foam down the vacuum line or letting it get sucked through using engine vaccum while the engine is running. I use about a half a can, and then shut the engine off for about 30 - 45 minutes to allow it to soak into all the carbon deposits, the truck will smole for awhile after re-start but that will soon disappear as you drive it. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) It's been sitting for a few years but still cranks. But when it cranks the engine starts smoking. I can typical work my way through any repair with good instructions. I have access to a garage and tools, so where do I start? I'm guessing the valve gaskets need replacing. I do have the owners manuals. What else is going to have to be replaced? Thanks in advance for any and all help. What do you mean it smokes? Like something smokes under the hood while cranking (not starting) Or it blows smoke after the engine starts. Besides that the basics. Oil and filter change Timing belt inspect/replacement Antifreeze change Fresh fuel with a HD engine cleaner (seafoam, Lucas) Other fluid level checks. Probly a new rotor and cap since there probly correded pretty good. Fuel filter change after a few fill up's. Edited December 16, 2011 by nismothunder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Replace the brake fluid, and the clutch fluid, if its a manual. they both use DOT3 so you can buy a big container and not waste any. If you mean it smokes after you start it by its smoking out the exhaust, you probably have some sticking rings in one or more cylinder. Pour some Marvel Mystery oil through the spark plug holes, and leave it overnight. Turn the engine over with the plugs out so you don't hydrolock the engine. Reinstall the plugs(or new ones ) and then do the rest of the seafoam treatment. You'll probably need to do it a couple times. Its best to do the Seafoam treatment at night, because it often your neighbors will think you've set your garage or truck on fire, or call the cops on you if they don't like you or if they are treehuggers. If you do the Seafoam treatment (per instructions on can) be prepared to change the oil & filter in about 50 miles with all the sludge you'll break loose. Inspect the condition of the oil very often the first 100 miles as if the sludge is lifting out of the engine, the filter will really be taking a beating. Repeat the Marvel/Seafoam/Oil change cycle until the oil still looks clean 100 miles after its put in the engine. Once you get it running ok, flush the transmission(if auto) with new filter (and inline one too!) and then focus on other issues like stuck wheel cylinders, leaking shocks, transfer case and diff fluid changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Replace the brake fluid, and the clutch fluid, if its a manual. they both use DOT3 so you can buy a big container and not waste any. DOT4 is usable in all DOT3 brake systems and has a higher wet & dry boiling point. May as well use that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCon Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) Awesome...... It's starts smoking from around the engine after it runs a few minutes. Oh it's a manual 4x4 Edited December 16, 2011 by JayCon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCon Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 Is there a preferred brand for the gaskets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Anything except Fel-Pro is my understanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Is there a preferred brand for the gaskets? Nissan pieces are generally considered to be the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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