MY1PATH Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 green and pink are the same pipe, pink just shows the heat shields. REPLACE THIS, have custom made with o2 bung welded to it. otherwise your larger red pipes will be bottle necked by it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 one word of warning don't warp any flanges when welding them or you will be in for some good times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 one word of warning don't warp any flanges when welding them or you will be in for some good times Speaking about FLANGES. What I am supposed to do with them? There is a bunch of these and the GASKETS: Should I cut them off from the stock pipes/Y-pipes and weld them back to the new 2.5" pipes for connectivity purposes between the various exhaust system components? What about the GASKETS? I probably need a new set. Do you know where can I source these online? William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 My HEAT SHIELDS are also rusty as hell Can I take them off? Should they be replaced? With what? William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Usually the flanges are rusted up and stuff and should be replaced. You usually don't reuse exhaust gaskets. You can buy them online wherever, they are pretty standard. Try rockauto. but personally I'd probably go to the dealer because their metal ones seem to work better to me. I hate dealing with stupid exhaust leaks at flanges... As for the heat shields, they are probably more trouble than they are worth at this point. The purpose is to try to not heat up the truck body.... extra heat causes rust and stuff. While you have the exhaust off would be a good time to check the integrity of the body around there and do whatever fixes are necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Right, the dealer exhaust gaskets are great, if you are building an OEM system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Right, the dealer exhaust gaskets are great, if you are building an OEM system. Heh, I suppose that is true Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Speaking about FLANGES. What I am supposed to do with them? Should I cut them off from the stock pipes/Y-pipes and weld them back to the new 2.5" pipes for connectivity purposes between the various exhaust system components? What about the GASKETS? I probably need a new set. Do you know where can I source these online? William DO NOT REUSE YOUR FLANGES, FOR THE SAME REASON AS I SAID NOT TO REUSE YOUR MID PIPE (O2 SENSOR PIPE). Heat shields can be trashed and any fitting, pipe or gasket etc that is from your stock exhaust is 1.825" Now why in hell would you put a 1.825" flange on a 2.5" pipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Ok. The dealer for the GASKETS. But what about the FLANGES!!! Where do I get these? I don;t believe the dealer carries these Flanges. Do they? Are they available Aftermarket? William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 No, as tungsten pointed out, my suggestion for the dealer gaskets was dumb, because they will be too small. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 (edited) No, as tungsten pointed out, my suggestion for the dealer gaskets was dumb, because they will be too small. Of course!!!!!! How would the small GASKETS and FLANGES fit the 2.5" Pipe!!! So what to do in that case? How to connect the various parts together? Full welding all the way from start to finish! What about the O2 sensor. How will I fit it back in? William Edited December 6, 2011 by William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Get flanges of your choice, either billet or whatever el cheapo ones. Same goes for gaskets, just get some decent high temp ones. For the oxygen sensor, since your year is 1992, it will use the small 12mm bung so get one of those and weld the bung into the mid pipe as close to the engine as possible but to not interfere with the bolts. Make sure you use 3 bolt flanges at the manifolds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 You should be able to buy flanges and gaskets and O2 bungs online. Make sure to get the right thread for your sensor. This is all going to take a bit of research to get right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Just a heads up, 12mm motorcycle bungs work great with those smaller sensors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 how about instead of 3-bolt FLANGES, I went for something like that: Pipe Connectors! William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) Probably not a good idea. Been there, done that! If you want, for convenience and ease of repair, you can clamp the tail pipes on the muffler. Edited December 7, 2011 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Of course!!!!!! How would the small GASKETS and FLANGES fit the 2.5" Pipe!!! So what to do in that case? How to connect the various parts together? Full welding all the way from start to finish! What about the O2 sensor. How will I fit it back in? William Seriously, how about you read some of the replies! I said get the pipe custom made with an O2 sensor bung. any exhaust shop should be able to do that. If you are this clueless about how everything should go together maybe you should stop by an exhaust shop. they have flanges, pipes, gaskets, adapters, lifts, welders, benders and everything else you need to build you a very custom 2.5" exhaust setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 You're right about that but in his defense, there aren't always accessible exhaust shops. For example, the closest one to me that will do that kind of work is more than 50 miles away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Seriously, how about you read some of the replies! I said get the pipe custom made with an O2 sensor bung. any exhaust shop should be able to do that. If you are this clueless about how everything should go together maybe you should stop by an exhaust shop. they have flanges, pipes, gaskets, adapters, lifts, welders, benders and everything else you need to build you a very custom 2.5" exhaust setup. Sorry about that (I am not clueless though ) Sometimes, I rush into a replies prior refreshing the page. I did not read your post till after I wrote mine. Always happy to read your replies though. Honestly William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 I came across plenty of online retailers selling flanges and gaskets for all sorts of applications (regular, turbos, ..., 2 Bolts, 3 Bolts, 4 Bolts, ...). No worries there I'll just make sure to order them in 2.5" dimensions to match the new pipe size. As for the Heat Shield. I came across a technique for Heat Shielding the Exhaust pipes: Step 1: VHT Flat Black Flameproof Step 2: Titanium Exhaust Wrap with LR Technology by DEI Step 3: HT Silicone Coating Does it make sense? William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 It's not a terrible idea, although you could probably spend a lot of effort doing your whole exhaust. Usually people just wrap their headers to keep the engine bay cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 If you do header wrap do not go cheap on the pipe. The wrap increases the heat inside the pipe (good) but also accelerates metal fatigue so If you buy thin pipes and wrap them they will only last a few years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 If you do header wrap do not go cheap on the pipe. The wrap increases the heat inside the pipe (good) but also accelerates metal fatigue so If you buy thin pipes and wrap them they will only last a few years. Thx My1Path. I'll keep that in mind. I only planned on wrapping those sections of the pipe that had stock Heat Shields on them as I plan to throw my rusty shields away. Do you recommend a specific Pipe Thickness? I'm also putting an order for Doug Thorley headers to complete this 2.5" Pipe upgrade. They are Ceramic Coated and according to the installation instructions, putting any form of exhaust wrap on these headers voids the warranty :S Now the DT headers specs: HEADER EXIT: DRIVER PRIMARY/COLLECTOR: 1 1/2" - 2 1/2" DRIVE: 4WD Will I need in that case a 1.5->2.5" adaptor between the output of the headers and the new 2.5" Exhaust Pipe? William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I'm pretty sure the thorley's have a 2.5" exit so you need to adapter. The coating on the thorley's basically does the same thing as the wrap so you don't need it. I doubt you actually need to wrap any part of your exhaust unless you have specific heat concerns about a particular place with your custom setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Thx My1Path. I'll keep that in mind. I only planned on wrapping those sections of the pipe that had stock Heat Shields on them as I plan to throw my rusty shields away. Do you recommend a specific Pipe Thickness? I'm also putting an order for Doug Thorley headers to complete this 2.5" Pipe upgrade. They are Ceramic Coated and according to the installation instructions, putting any form of exhaust wrap on these headers voids the warranty :S Now the DT headers specs: HEADER EXIT: DRIVER PRIMARY/COLLECTOR: 1 1/2" - 2 1/2" DRIVE: 4WD Will I need in that case a 1.5->2.5" adaptor between the output of the headers and the new 2.5" Exhaust Pipe? William The primaries are 1.5" what that means as that each pipe coming off the block its 1.5". The collector is where they all meet and your / their Y-pipe bolts up and that is 2.5" Thorely's are really thick and the ceramic coating holds the heat in Like a wrap would. 12-14 gauge is probably good if your going to wrap the whole pipe. 18 gauge is too light for wrapping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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