R50 did something strange this morning.

[wankerschnitzel]

It has been running great for quite a while, but something happened this morning that totally threw me.

 

I left it parked at a weird angle in 4low last night, as my driveway is in a state of (dis)repair.

I started it up and noticed the clock and stereo (factory Bose) were not working at all. The Bose sometimes forgets the presets, so I thought maybe it finally died, or I blew a fuse. All other electrics were working fine.

 

So I backed out of the driveway, and got turned around. Select to -N-(Trans) to put it back to 2wd and here's where things got weird:

 

Stopped in Neutral(Trans) at idle, foot on brake, in 4low. The headlights dim and there is this sound. Reminiscent of when brakes begin to go metal to metal, or the bearings in your alternator are seizing. A crunchy graveling ,SCHKWAHWAHWAHW, not super loud. It seems like it's bogging the motor a bit at idle also. No CEL. I put it in park, and no change. Ok, so I decide to take it out of 4wd via the normal -N- , shift case, reverse method.

 

Ok, no problem I am stopped in reverse and in 2wd. No noises, lights are nice and bright. What the heck? So then as I move the selector towards drive I find it does it's weird thing in -N- and Park. But shift to any gear, and it's totally normal. It goes forward and backward fine, no noies, bright lights. So I'm thinking my tranny or torque converter is going south on me. I turn it off, and scratch my head for a while, and decide to try and pin point the source of the noise. It gets weirder.

 

It starts right up, clock is on and set, stereo is on all presets are there, and everything is fine. No more noise or any of that. It runs like a champ, as if it never happened. Still no CEL. After work today, I will see if I can pull any OBD2 codes, and have a thumb through the repair manual. I haven't been able to replicate it after 5 tries. Thought I'd throw this out there, and see if you have any thoughts/pointers.

Thanks, all.

 

2003 SE

3.5 V6

Auto trans

146k mi.

 

 

Edit: Turns out we have a Nissan shop manual in PDF stickied right under my nose. Thanks Precise1.

 

AT-91

 

Transmission

noise in P and N

positions.

ON vehicle

 

1. Fluid level AT-61

2. Line pressure test AT-64

3. Accelerator pedal position sensor

(throttle position sensor)

AT-182

4. Vehicle speed sensor·A/T (Revolution

sensor) and vehicle speed sensor·MTR

AT-117, 200

 

I got some homework to do.

 

Edit: Well here's something I should consider. From a Benz forum, of all places:

Edit:Learned how to link.

 

Q:When I start the car, it sounds like the starter is still engaged but when I shift it to Reverse or Drive, it runs fine. When I move the shift from Reverse to Drive, I can hear the grinding noise when it's jumps through Neutral. When I stop and put the car in Park, it again make the grinding noise.

 

Is it possible that the starter engages when it's in Neutral or Park but disengages when it's in all the other gears?

 

"it could actually be the starter if it were stuck on since it would cut in only when the tranny is in neutral or park. Might be worth disconnecting it while running (safely of course) just to rule it out as a possibility... "

 

"this problem for me actually ended up being a problem with my ignition and my key. The key didn't retract all the way after turning the ignition to start. I'm glad I fixed it before trashing my starter."

 

Link

 

 

 

 

 

If my starter was engaging, it could explain the dimming, the bogging, and the nasty noise in N and P. I will check to see if my clock and stereo go dark while turning over (CONFIRMED). I was parked with wheel all the way to one side, and had to do the steering wheel jiggle to get the key to turn.

 

SOLVED

Final Edit: That's what it was/is. It had nothing to do with the 4WD, or stereo. There was enough tension in the steering column lock, or ignition switch itself to stay just at the start position. Especially if you turn the key sort quick and confident. I was able to duplicate it twice by parking in the same goofy way. I feel a bit like a Dodo. I was about to break out the test meters and get down to some serious over-thinking.

I will leave you with this, as a token of my ineptitude:

 

The wankerschnitzel Manuever:

(applies to left hand drive R50)

 

Imagine you are driving straight down a semi-steep incline in 4low 1st, (safety belts now friends), now decide to veer about 45deg to the right. Now you will stop with a bowling ball hight stone under the right rear tire so it lifts the highest point of the ass end up. Now crank the wheel all the way to the left and hold it there while you put it in park and turn that sweet machine off. Step out and admire your work. You are now finished with the maneuver.

Edited September 21, 2011 by wankerschnitzel

[Reshma]

Its the pathfinder gods telling you to buy a WD21

Edited September 20, 2011 by PathfinderIII

[Towncivilian]

Well, that's a strange one. As for the electrical issues, are the battery terminals free of corrosion and secured tightly?

 

What's the condition and level of the transmission fluid?

 

1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature.

2. Park on level surface and apply parking brake.

3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P.

4. Pull transmission dipstick with engine idling, wipe clean, reinsert completely, and read level. It must be within the notched areas labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel.

[wankerschnitzel]

Its thebpathfinder gods telling you to buy a WD21

I have a '87 2 door pathy in a state of disrepair as well. It has almost 300,000 mi on the original drivetrain, but it wasn't without it's problems here and there for sure. That's actually how I found this forum a few years ago, was getting the old girl back on the road.

[wankerschnitzel]

Well, that's a strange one. As for the electrical issues, are the battery terminals free of corrosion and secured tightly?

 

What's the condition and level of the transmission fluid?

 

1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature.

2. Park on level surface and apply parking brake.

3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P.

4. Pull transmission dipstick with engine idling, wipe clean, reinsert completely, and read level. It must be within the notched areas labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel.

 

The level looks good. It doesn't smell or look burnt or anything. I check the T-case as well, for the heck of it.

 

I'm going to check my +12 mains, and grounds tonight after I pull codes.

 

I am wondering it there is problem in communication between the computer, engine, and transmission due to a connection problem.

 

I had a crank angle sensor going bad on me a while back. When the weather was hot it would die sometimes while running. When I pulled the codes I got one for the sensor (CPK?) and one from the transmission, complaining it didn't know the vehicle's speed. So I assume they talk while driving, and I wonder if there was no power to some park/neutral sensor. Purely speculation. Maybe I can a flow chart for the computer and sensors. It's just seems bizarre that this happened at the same time. I suppose it could be separate things, and just a big coincidence...I will update if I discover anything further.

[Slartibartfast]

All I can think of is that the weird angle caused the trans fluid to pool somewhere and not lubricate something else correctly. But even if it was straight upside down I don't see how it would've messed with the lights/radio... maybe the washer fluid leaked onto something?