Timmons Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Today I purchased my SFD 4" lift from Krypton Fabrications. I was advised the following from Andrew at Krypton. In regards to the lift springs, iron rocks offroad carries 3" Jeep WJ rear lift springs which will match a 4" lift on the front of your pathfinder. If you are lifting a total of 6" in the front, I would recommend using the 5.5" lift springs they carry for the WJ. I checked out the website and found this. It goes up to 6.5" but not a 5.5" inch spring. What did you guys go with since I can't use the springs from the AC 2" lift i have now? WJ Rear Coil Spring (pair) Quantity in Basket: None Code: IR-WRCSP Price: $149.99 Desired Lift Height: 3" 4" (add $5) 6.5" (add $15) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 get the 6.5's if it's too high you can trim a little off... Mine are 5.5's and I wish for another 1". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 With that much lift id worry about the driveshaft length Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Not a problem. 01silvapathy is that you from texas that was talkin to Staang's fab??? He mentioned your interest today when I talked to him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmons Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 So would the 6.5" springs be ok to run in the rear then? Do you guys think it will look to racked up in the back as opposed to the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Not a problem. 01silvapathy is that you from texas that was talkin to Staang's fab??? He mentioned your interest today when I talked to him. Yeah I emailed him awhile ago, he said he would contact me once they got all the kinks out with rods truck and so on. Never heard back but thought that was mebby cause he was not done yet? What all did he have to say when yall talked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 So would the 6.5" springs be ok to run in the rear then? Do you guys think it will look to racked up in the back as opposed to the front? Yeah that would be my only real concern, cause the front would be at its maximum lift and the rear coils would have to settle in and so on. Id say play it safe but thats just me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmons Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) It will be the 4" WJ springs which will give it a 5.5" lift in the rear with the WJ adapters. All is good. Hope it doesn't look to racked in the front with the .5" difference in the rear. LOL. Edited August 30, 2011 by Timmons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Not a problem. 01silvapathy is that you from texas that was talkin to Staang's fab??? He mentioned your interest today when I talked to him. That was me talking to Stang's Fab and this is what we discussed: Terry, We have been working with Rod to get a complete R50 SAS swap kit together. We would really like to see someone else try it and do the install so we can see where, if any improvements are needed. We look forward to working with you on this project. There are some things that you may be able to get locally so I have priced it out in a way that you can just get certain parts of the kit. Here is what we have. We have designed a new transmission cross member for the 3 link to mount too, with a removable center section. A new engine bracket to relocate the power steering pump and loose the A/C. A pair of mounts for coilovers (14” travel work great, 250lbs over 350lbs springs are soft.). Axle end link mounts for the three link, a track bar with mounts, a steering drag link and cross bar and a uniframe/steering box stiffener/mount. We will also supply the Drive shaft and adapter. This set-up with a Waggy D44 axle will put your R50 at the same level as the rear if you have the same rear springs as Rod. The Waggy D44 also has the right bolt pattern and width if you did not already know. The cost of this kit right now is. $3395.40 Plus options... $4135.40. The only thing you supply if you get it ALL is the steering box (Dodge Durango) and axle. 3 Link (all links are adjustable and use Currie Johnny Joints) $999.95 Transmission Cross Member $305 Steering box mount/stiffener $199.95 Power steering pump bracket(Comes with a new V belt). $210.50 Track bar with mounts $380 Cross over steering $450.00 Drive shaft and adapter(All new double cardan shaft with 1310 UJ) $850 Optional stuff: Electric Fan and controller $240 P/S Hoses and adapters $250 Exhaust Pipe for passanger side. $250 Thanx for the interest!! Eric Schertzing Owner/Operator Staang's FAB 905-466-5578 From: terry [mailto:terryhenryjr@aol.com] Sent: August-19-11 2:53 PM To: eric@staangsfab.com Subject: R50 SAS kit I am a friend of Rod's and have a 1999.5 R50 that had the same lift he had in it before the SAS. I live in TX and would be interested in purchasing a manufactured kit in pieces execpt for the axle; what have you been coming up with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Rick13 needs to put his He just went through this and bought the 4" springs and hated them and switched to the 6.5" ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 That's what they said to me too muddy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Damn thats more pricey than I expected it to be. For that much money I can buy a jeep cherokee lift it lock it and not be afraid to beat on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) But it won't be a pathfinder and then you'll be a Jeep _ _ _ Too!!!!! Edited August 30, 2011 by PaMountianbiker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 But id have a daily driver and a wheeling rig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180sx Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Wow, thats alot of money! 1K for 3 links? WTF? I'd say more like $600 at most, even with the johnny joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick13 Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Rick13 needs to put his He just went through this and bought the 4" springs and hated them and switched to the 6.5" ones Sorry, works killing me right now, so I'm not on here much at all. Well, I ran with the 2" AC coils and 4" SFD up front and added gasket coils spacers to the 2" AC coils out back for over 6 months. It looked a little goofy, but ran fine. Then I purchased some 4" WJ coils from TeraFlex (FL - 16.25, SR - 190 lb/in) and it only netted me about 5.5" of lift out back...so I still had reverse rake. It road a little goofy out back and squatted with a full camping load/kiddo's. I actually couldn't stand them, but I bet they are perfect for a person who only installed the 4" SFD without the 2" coils lift up front. Then I went with 6.5" WJ coils from Iron Rocks (FL - 18.625, SR - 200 lb/in). These are stout springs. I cut them to fit the upper perch only - leaving as much spring as possible (which is NOT how I cut the 4" TeraFlex springs...may have cut a little too much). I love how it wheels, but I gained a VERY slight driveline vibration and kicked my rear axle quite a bit to the driver's side. So then purchased the PHB drop bracket from Andrew at Krypton in an attempt to re-center my axle (and thought I'd reduce my vibration a little). Well, my axle is now dead straight, but I actually gained about 1/2" of height out back and increased my driveline vibration. I am going to cut the springs a bit more in the next couple weeks and can report back. All-in-all, the Iron Rocks springs are absolute quality. The ride is nice, it doesn't squat when fully loaded, and they flex like no other spring I've seen out back. It also didn't hurt that their customer service was very good (ask for Josh). Even with the driveline issue I'm currently dealing with, I would absolutely buy their product again and only have to figure out just how much to cut to make the perfect fit. Again, I'll report back in the next 2 weeks once I cut and reinstall. Does that help? Here is the current rake prior to the PHB bracket...I'm actually a bit higher than this right now. BUT AGAIN, I will soon reduce and report back: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmons Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 Wow, great write up Rick! Please let me know what you find out about the rear springs. Was going to order up the 4" WJ springs but after what you said, looks like i might have to go with the 6.5" springs and maybe cut them down to get the 6" i'm looking for in the rear. I just don't want that racked look in the back and no vibration. Keep us posted on your findings and let us know what the right cut will be to make it perfect. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick13 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 (edited) Well, I finally got some time on a weekend to spend on my rig. I placed the spring compressors on (the cheap ones from HF) and then jacked up the driver's side. The springs lifted out quite easily even with the upper bump stop and the lower perch adapter (KR Fabs) still in place. I measured and marked the spring to cut about 3/4" off the height of the coil (I was afraid to cut too much). I then took my cheap angle grinder (HF again) and cut it off (about 15-20 seconds of cutting time). When I placed it back on the rig it lowered just over 1" (so now my driver's side is at 39.75" fender to ground. I repeated the process for the passenger side and it now sits at about 40.25". Given that I have cut exactly equal amounts of spring from each side, I'm still trying to figure out if the passenger side sitting higher is due to the gas tank/full size spare being on the driver's side or if I need to cut the passenger down...then again, it's pretty gosh darn close and I think I'll just call it good for now. I drove it around the block (0-30 mph with acceleration/hard stops) and to work this morning (0-50 mph in traffic) and there is not even a hint of driveline vibration. That is all I was going for with the recent cuts. It still has a slight rake from back to front, so that is cool too (sorry, love that look). I will take photos of the cut pieces (I kept the pig tails from the original cut just for this purpose) and post up the estimated cut lengths of each coil. I'll also try to get some pics (parking lot again) of how she sits now. I'll try to get those up this evening. Again, love the springs, and in case someone else wants to go this route, at least they'll have something to reference. Edited September 13, 2011 by Rick13 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmons Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Well, I finally got some time on a weekend to spend on my rig. I placed the spring compressors on (the cheap ones from HF) and then jacked up the driver's side. The springs lifted out quite easily even with the upper bump stop and the lower perch adapter (KR Fabs) still in place. I measured and marked the spring to cut about 3/4" off the height of the coil (I was afraid to cut too much). I then took my cheap angle grinder (HF again) and cut it off (about 15-20 seconds of cutting time). When I placed it back on the rig it lowered just over 1" (so now my driver's side is at 39.75" fender to ground. I repeated the process for the passenger side and it now sits at about 40.25". Given that I have cut exactly equal amounts of spring from each side, I'm still trying to figure out if the passenger side sitting higher is due to the gas tank/full size spare being on the driver's side or if I need to cut the passenger down...then again, it's pretty gosh darn close and I think I'll just call it good for now. I drove it around the block (0-30 mph with acceleration/hard stops) and to work this morning (0-50 mph in traffic) and there is not even a hint of driveline vibration. That is all I was going for with the recent cuts. It still has a slight rake from back to front, so that is cool too (sorry, love that look). I will take photos of the cut pieces (I kept the pig tails from the original cut just for this purpose) and post up the estimated cut lengths of each coil. I'll also try to get some pics (parking lot again) of how she sits now. I'll try to get those up this evening. Again, love the springs, and in case someone else wants to go this route, at least they'll have something to reference. Thanks for the great write up Rick, I spoke with the guys at Krypton Fabrications and was advised to go with the WJ 4" Springs since they will be sending me some new adapters to give me an exact 6" lift in the rear to match the front. This is the first time they will be sending these through their kit so I will be the guinea pig for this first one. The 4" lift kit is on it's way and so are the springs. I'll take some photos when the job is finally done in the next 2-3 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick13 Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Andrew makes good stuff, so I have no doubt it will be quality/well measured pieces...I just wanted as much flex as humanly possible without messing with driveline/control arms and such. Good luck and you should post up so we can see his new creation! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftourRoadie96 Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the great write up Rick, I spoke with the guys at Krypton Fabrications and was advised to go with the WJ 4" Springs since they will be sending me some new adapters to give me an exact 6" lift in the rear to match the front. This is the first time they will be sending these through their kit so I will be the guinea pig for this first one. The 4" lift kit is on it's way and so are the springs. I'll take some photos when the job is finally done in the next 2-3 weeks. I too have started making payments on my SFD.....hopefully paid off by Spring Time. Anyway, how were the results on those 6" adapters??? I'm really interested in how they turned out? I'm soon gonna start buying shocks, springs, tires, etc. Edited November 2, 2011 by OfftourRoadie96 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmons Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share Posted November 2, 2011 I too have started making payments on my SFD.....hopefully paid off by Spring Time. Anyway, how were the results on those 6" adapters??? I'm really interested in how they turned out? I'm soon gonna start buying shocks, springs, tires, etc. My friends and I are installing the entire kit this weekend. Adapters will work perfect. Will take pictures and post next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftourRoadie96 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Wow, great write up Rick! Please let me know what you find out about the rear springs. Was going to order up the 4" WJ springs but after what you said, looks like i might have to go with the 6.5" springs and maybe cut them down to get the 6" i'm looking for in the rear. I just don't want that racked look in the back and no vibration. Keep us posted on your findings and let us know what the right cut will be to make it perfect. Tim Did you have to cut off any of the 4" springs???? If so, could you show how much with pics, like Rick13 did, if possible....again we love pictures! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmons Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 Did you have to cut off any of the 4" springs???? If so, could you show how much with pics, like Rick13 did, if possible....again we love pictures! Sure can, need to pull those pics from my friends camera this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Storm_Trooper Posted September 4, 2023 Share Posted September 4, 2023 Are yall buying the 6.5s front or rear to stick in the rear of the r50? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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