spazman Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) My clutch sounds like it's slipping but only when I first start it after it's been sitting overnight or longer. But lately I have been hearing a whining, like when you're in reverse but when I'm going forward and it's a lot louder when I get on the gas over 2500RPM. I'm haven't really ever missed with a transmission/clutch since I've never had any problems with anything I've owned in that area so I have no idea what is going on. I swapped the tranny fluid thinking maybe it was low, well it wasn't but it was black since I don't think anyones changed it ever (160k miles). It looked like someone had tried to change it, partially stripped the fill plug and said screw it. So all that being said, it makes taht whine when the clutch is disengaged and you're parked so I crawled under there while it was running and it's definitely coming from the front of the transmission around the clutch area. The noise goes away completely when the clutch is in though. So would this be a bearing, the clutch, something else I'm not aware of? Thanks Edited July 8, 2011 by spazman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Ok, got a few differentl things going on here. If you clutch is slipping, you should see a rise in RPM under accleration, but have low or no vehicle movement. If you you have a whining noise, it may be a bearing. Now, you stated that you drained and refilled the transmission? How much fluid did you put in, and what type of fluid did you put in? Our manual transmissions need to be overfilled if they have not been rebuilt with updated parts. You can research this in the Garage section. It is possible that you have a throwout bearing going out. It will create the whine noise you stated. But, here is the kicker, you may also have a main bearing going out inside of the transmission. Most will verify this by noticing noise in 1-2-3, but not fourth. If so, you may need a trans rebuild, or new unit. Oh, the fluid you install should be GL4 rated, not GL5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) To clarify, throwout bearing will only make noise when the clutch pedal is pushed down. Also, even a rebuilt transmission is likely to require "overfilling" because the part that needs to be replaced is the main outer case, which would be unlikely to change in a rebuild. 5523 seems to have good info to me! Edited July 7, 2011 by sewebster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Here is the thread with the TSB.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazman Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 Well just realized it doesn't make that noise in 4th gear... damn it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 well, pull the front seats and the carpet, remove the shifter mount plate bolts, and fill'er up. Pray it helps you along for a while. I had the same issue cause someone put the wrong fluid in before i got him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazman Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) sounds like a plan to me, I guess the search for a replacement trany begins. Anyone know if there is somewhere that states the cross compatibility of the models and generations. I have an early 98 so will any R50 work? from my little bit of research it looks like they may be different 96-98 and 98-01 but want to clarify. I'm sure it doesn't help that I've had this for 10k miles and didn't realize that the fluid had probably never been changed and looked like pepsi with chocolate milk swirls. Edited July 7, 2011 by spazman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) OK, a slight brain fart. The TSB does not apply to R50's, sorry, I jumped the gun. As you describe the fluid though, it sounds like things have gotten a bit wet. Of course, no maintenence is a killer on anything. I think you still need a rebuild/new transmission. There are some Nissan only wreckers out there. Here in washington, there is Feltons auto Parts, in Snohomish county. Edited July 7, 2011 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazman Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 Yeah I'll have to shop around for sure. Read the TSB and saw it wasn't for me but figured I'd still overfill a little just to be safe, figured if it's too much it'll spit it out the top. Seperate but similar question. I'm realizing that my drivetrain is crapping out on me, and when I lock my hubs now it feels and looks like things are haning up in teh front diff so it's making a crazy vibration. When 4wd is engaged or not there is that vibration and if you spin the front wheels they spin like they should but then on stops while the other spins about 1/4 turn and then you can see the diff start to bind up. Is that screwed too or am I just just having a major brain fart. Figured I'd see if anyone has any ideas before I go pulling things off and taking them apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Well, I guess you are back to maintenence. Is there any play in the wheel bearings? Have the hubs been serviced at all? What about the front diff fluid, color, level, smell? If it feels like the front wheels are binding individually when spinning by hand, I would think your hubs need to be cleaned and regreased(or replaced if you want). If the front end is binding all together, make sure you are out of 4wd on dry pavement and do some figure eights. If your transfer case is not letting go, you will feel binding. Again, possible hub issue or maybe transfer case(rare). Time to do some poking around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazman Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 Hey thanks for the help, I'll hae to see what's going on and take everything apart again. I just got some warn hubs a few months ago and they worked fine and engage and disengage. The fluid out of the transfer case looked good, the diff, again like pepsi. I didn't see any metal shavings or anything like that out of either, a little on the magnets but nothing to throw up red flags. There isn't much play in teh wheel bearings wither, if you pull on the wheel it might move 1/8". The front seems to be only bind on one side at a time not together. Hopefully I can get some poking around done and figure all this out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Its always hard to diagnois stuff over the interwebs. What I would do is try and get all four wheels off the ground, put it in 4wd, and put it in drive. Without acclerating, get out and watch all four wheels to see what they are doing. You should be able to slow one tire down and watch the power trnasfer over to the other wheel. I would also do the same test in 2wd, to make sure the transfer case is not engauging. Keep us informed on what you find! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarehouseRat Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 1/8 is way to much slop, there should be almost zero deflection when you shake any vehicle down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 ^agreed B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Pulling top and bottom on the wheel right? If you pull on the sides you'll move the steering. There should be no play top to bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazman Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 (edited) Okay after talking to a buddy who owned a driveline shop he says my trans is toast and on it's way out. Now here's my question, what is the difference between all the years of wd21, and r50 manual transmissions besides the fill hole? I'm just seeing what my options are for replacement. Oh and my wheel bearing is in tight, looks like the control arm bushing is done causing the play in the wheel. Edited August 4, 2011 by spazman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Well, I think you want an FS5R30A. I THINK the only difference is the fill hole position. I just looked in the 98 FSM and it seems that basically everything is the same between the 2wd and 4wd, but it lists a vastly different oil capacity (2.4L vs 5.1L). Weird. Anyway, I think all the V6 VG30 and VG33 engines used the same manual transmission (4 cyl could be/is different). Maybe someone can confirm that it doesn't matter is the truck was 2 or 4 wheel drive... Sorry I'm not very authoritative. I actually have the same question as you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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