MrT Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 i have never had to splice any wires on either of my 2 wd21s to make the sound work... All i have ever used was the cheap walmart wire harness adapter, cheap antenna adapter. If you're connecting two wires together that is called a splice. Some adapters have the stub for the factory amp turn on lead and some don't. Either way you need an acc on lead from the radio connected to the turn on lead of the pathfinder's harness. Doesn't really matter how you do it, it just needs to be done. This is why people hook up after market radios and get no sound, they miss the amp turn on lead. Glad you figured it out. Enjoy the new sounds! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 It's best to bypass the factory amps. really easy to do! Before, my deck would be ear piercing at volume 10, and "normal" would be 2 or 3.. MAYBE 5. now 20 is normal, and 40+ is ear piercing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nice186 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 It's best to bypass the factory amps. really easy to do! Before, my deck would be ear piercing at volume 10, and "normal" would be 2 or 3.. MAYBE 5. now 20 is normal, and 40+ is ear piercing. I don't have to worry about that cause I got the gains for the amp that goes to the speakerz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrT Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 It's best to bypass the factory amps. really easy to do! Before, my deck would be ear piercing at volume 10, and "normal" would be 2 or 3.. MAYBE 5. now 20 is normal, and 40+ is ear piercing. This is because your factory amp converts the "speaker level" signal back into a line level signal to amplify it again at speaker level. Not an ideal situation but not necessarily bad either, just depends. All things being equal, if you didn't pay attention to the arbitrary number on your volume dial, which sounded better at the same loudness? That's what would make my decision for me. I don't have to worry about that cause I got the gains for the amp that goes to the speakerz I'm not sure what you mean. Are you using an aftermarket amp then? I don't think the factory amps have a "gain" setting other than the speaker level signal you put into it/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nice186 Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 I'm not sure what you mean. Are you using an aftermarket amp then? I don't think the factory amps have a "gain" setting other than the speaker level signal you put into it/ This is what I got http://www.crutchfield.ca/OEM_Amplifier_Integration_v_4_89_up_Nissan_Infini_p/142C4NN02. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 That link says there is no image. No worries. I have used that same adapter many times. Works great for a basic install. Here is the one I used in another vehicle... If you upgrade your system, bypassing the amp and going to a stand alone 4ch amp is a much better idea, and it will sound way better. Im still running the factory amp and speakers and they are doing just fine. Getting a little crackly, but im not trying to win sound competions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nice186 Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 That link says there is no image. No worries. I have used that same adapter many times. Works great for a basic install. Here is the one I used in another vehicle... If you upgrade your system, bypassing the amp and going to a stand alone 4ch amp is a much better idea, and it will sound way better. Im still running the factory amp and speakers and they are doing just fine. Getting a little crackly, but im not trying to win sound competions. Search Product Code: 142C4NN02 on the site n you will find it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver123 Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 x2 dont rewire stuff straight to the battery it will drain the battry and possibly fry the amps completely. Try a different deck someone has laying around....if anything go to walmart or w/e and buy a cheap deck and try it and if it works or not you can bring it back and say it didnt work. That will help you know if yours if messed up or if your wiring is. The stereo in any car has one wire that is always hot or always connected directly to the battery, it provides power at all times to keep the memory in the deck for radio stations etc. That wire provides power when the deck is on as well, but the deck can only power up when the Accessory wire is sending a signal from the ignition when the key is in either the accessory position or while the engine is running. As far as the issue of the stock amps, highly recommend bypassing them, especially if you are planning to get after market speakers. The stock amps will limit the output quality and volume of the aftermarket speakers. From the sounds of it, it would be quicker at this point to run new wire to your speakers, I did it in an afternoon on my truck. If you insist on using the stock amps as far as i remember from when i first changed the deck on my '95 is that there was no need to splice into the stock harness if you have a proper wiring harness adapter. I believe it came in two pieces, two separate pig tails or plugs. The amps should turn on from a source that isn't part of the wiring behind the deck, which only send signal to the amps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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