EGR Solenoid Valve

[ejin4499]

So I've been fighting CA smog checks and have finaly nailed down the problem to the egr solenoid valve. Basicaly the valve never cuts to manifold vacuum unless I unplug it from power. It alwas has current running to it. I can't figure out if I have a faulty ECU that never realizes that my rpms are at 2000 or some other issue. The truck drives great idles good so I don't think its my cam position sensor.

Could someone post a pic of there solenoid valve so I can double check that I have my vacuum lines hooked up right. The vacuum diagrams aren't exactly in 3d. I am 90% certain I have it right but you never know.

 

Any other thoughts would be appriciated.

Thanks

 

After thought

If I diconect power and run it in for a test the egr valve should be opening and closing at that point and cooling my engine down for the test.

 

The part that I am failing on is Nox at 15 miles. everything else is well below requirements.

 

If I put a ecu from a 1990 vehicle that did not have a egr temp sensor would the imput from that sensor be ignored or would it be able to react to the temp readings from the sensor?

Edited June 4, 2011 by ejin4499

[ejin4499]

So I've been fighting CA smog checks and have finaly nailed down the problem to the egr solenoid valve. Basicaly the valve never cuts to manifold vacuum unless I unplug it from power. It alwas has current running to it. I can't figure out if I have a faulty ECU that never realizes that my rpms are at 2000 or some other issue. The truck drives great idles good so I don't think its my cam position sensor.

Could someone post a pic of there solenoid valve so I can double check that I have my vacuum lines hooked up right. The vacuum diagrams aren't exactly in 3d. I am 90% certain I have it right but you never know.

 

Any other thoughts would be appriciated.

Thanks

 

After thought

If I diconect power and run it in for a test the egr valve should be opening and closing at that point and cooling my engine down for the test.

 

The part that I am failing on is Nox at 15 miles. everything else is well below requirements.

 

If I put a ecu from a 1990 vehicle that did not have a egr temp sensor would the imput from that sensor be ignored or would it be able to react to the temp readings from the sensor?

So I cut the ground wire on the solenoid which allowes vacuum to get to the egr valve. Egr is always being used now instead of just at cruise but it worked for my smog test. only problem was it didn't work good enough. My NOX at 15 mph 2000 rmps was at 1040 roughly as opposed to 2500 so it made a huge difference just not enough. I think what the rest of the problem is the fact that I used to vg30 injectors when I put my vg33 block in. I think that while its running at the low speed the ecu is in a preprogramed mode and only allowing predetirmined amount through but with the larger displacement engine isn't enough gas to air, but when its running at 25 its paying attention to the O2 sensor and flowing more fuel into the chamber. Thats why my 25 mph at 2000 rpms always passed.

 

If anyone has any thoughts even if its just to say I'm a dumb ass feel free to chime in.

 

I know its been posted but I can't find it. Does anyone know the flowrate of the vg33 pink blue dot injectors is? I think the vg30 ones are somewhere around 180 cc/min or at least I just read that in the turbo build thread.

Edited June 5, 2011 by ejin4499

[silverton]

is your O2 sensor good? How is your cat functioning? take apart the EGR and clean the carbon out of it and repair the snipped wire.

 

vg30 and vg33 injectors flow the same, only difference is the style of the connector.

[ejin4499]

is your O2 sensor good? How is your cat functioning? take apart the EGR and clean the carbon out of it and repair the snipped wire.

 

vg30 and vg33 injectors flow the same, only difference is the style of the connector.

how exactly does one measure the functionality of the cat?

I've already cleaned out the carbon from the egr.

The wire I'll repair when I figure out why the solenoid gets a constant voltage that never disengages. I think I have a shorted wire somewhere.

I'll rerun the diagnostic on the O2 sensor.

Thanks for your reply.

[silverton]

Well I suppose since you are only failing the 15 mph test, that your cat is more than likely good. Just trying to throw ideas out there.

 

Also, sensors can test GOOD while actually being BAD. Judging by the age of the vehicle, if it hasn't been replaced, it's probably a good idea to just get a new OEM replacement!

[ejin4499]

Well I suppose since you are only failing the 15 mph test, that your cat is more than likely good. Just trying to throw ideas out there.

 

Also, sensors can test GOOD while actually being BAD. Judging by the age of the vehicle, if it hasn't been replaced, it's probably a good idea to just get a new OEM replacement!

 

Yes I have already replaced it before running this smog test

[WarehouseRat]

under the thrittle/ cruse cable is a a bracket that bolt to the bottom of the cable mount it has 2 12mm bolt in it remove and twist the bracket out this is the egr feed port it gets blocked with carbon very heavly, might as well remove the T/B as well and clean the T/B and all the carbon clumps from the egr feed port from inside the plenum, this was the cause of my emission problems just as your are

Edited June 6, 2011 by WarehouseRat