Wheel bearing

[Matthew K]

Hello,

After taking my 01 Pathy to 4 shops, the final one told me that I needed to either tighten or replace the bearing in the front passenger side wheel. (I had taken my PF in because I could some play through the steering wheel in something in the front end like the steering components or suspension...turns out the wheel bearing is the culprit). Anyway, I bought a Haynes Manual but don't see it listed. Is this something that's difficult to do? Merchant's wanted ~$400 for parts and labor to install new inner and outer bearings on both front wheels since they said all of them should be done at the same time. Thanks!

 

Matt

[vengeful]

Copied from Dean Thayer's Post in the How-To on 4x4parts.com

 

The process for repacking the front wheel bearings is not difficult, if you have the right tools. If you're not mechanically inclined, leave it up to the pros. Otherwise, it's a long process and very messy:

 

Tools/Parts:

disposable latex gloves

lots of rags

bearing repacking tool

snap-ring pliers

13mm socket

14mm socket

19mm socket

phillips head screwdriver

slotted screwdriver

rubber or rawhide mallet

hammer

plastic or wooden rod (such as the handle of a hammer)

new front inner bearing seals

bearing grease

torque wrench

 

Time:

2-3 hours

 

Procedure:

Remove wheel

Remove brake caliper and bracket

Remove hub or drive flange

Remove snap ring securing the axle to the hub

Remove wheel bearing locking ring (don't strip the screws!)

Remove wheel bearing nut

Remove outer wheel bearing

Slide entire rotor/hub assembly from the spindle (may need to use a mallet to knock it off)

Place the rotor/hub on a surface that allows the inner bearing and seal to be tapped out (with a soft material, like plastic or wood) from the front.

Place bearings in a bearing repacker and squeeze new grease into them.

Clean old grease from the hub and spindle

Reinstall inner bearing.

Replace (with a new part) the inner bearing seal

Place fresh grease inside the hub (between the space created by the inner and outer bearings)

Replace the rotor/hub and put everything back together.

Repeat for the opposite wheel.

 

Here's a link for the process on an Xterra, identical to the process on the Pathfinder:

 

Link.

[Matthew K]

Vengeful-

Thanks very much for your response and the helpful information. This is something I can handle, I just need to get a couple new tools!

 

Thanks again.

Matt

[lewisnc100]

Those steps are missing one of the most important parts, properly seating the bearings and setting the preload. I'd recommend ordering the right locknut socket to seat the bearings, I have the OTC7698 socket, but I think the CTA4170 fits as well and is cheaper. You can also buy one of the 4 prong GM locknut sockets and grind it to work.

 

When you reinstall the hub you torque the bearing locknut socket down to 58-72 Ft-Lbs, then turn the hub to seat the bearings. Others just use a screwdriver or punch to tighten the locknut but I can't see how they could get it to the proper torque without the socket. To set the final preload you tighten the locknut down to 4.3 - 13 INCH/lbs, about the same as turning off a faucet. Turn the hub, release pressure and torque again to 4.3 - 13 inch/lbs. The lock washer will then require the locknut to be turned 15-30 degrees either direction to line up the locking screws.

 

This will make a lot more sense once you get in there.

[jrvanas]

Hey Matt,

 

What other noises did you hear from this? I am getting two noises (the popping from suspenstion that I cannot find and a whistling noise from the front end).

 

I believe I need to do this repacking as well - $400 huh -

 

~Jason

[Matthew K]

Jason,

I guess it wasn't really a noise that I heard, but I could feel something that just didn't seem right in the steering wheel, like something in the steering was shifting. When the PF was put up on a lift, the front right wheel could be moved up and down slightly, making the same sort of jolt/slop that I felt through the wheel. Yeah, ~$400 is steep. I'm going to change the bearings myself this week... Could the whistling in your front end be the universal joints?

 

Matt

[herm]

Are you sure the wheel bearing is the culprit? Seems like a vague suggestion, not a definate fix.

 

I'm not sure how you'd actually feel play at the wheel if the wheelbearing was bad. It would have to be totally shrapnelled to allow play - IMHO anyway.

 

Didja look close at the sway bar links? Those pesky little things wear out around 60,000 miles.

 

I haven't heard of anyone else posting a symptom like yours related to wheel bearings, and as you can see, it's a PITA to swap them out.

 

I have 100,000 miles on mine with no wheelbearing service yet.

 

m.

[Trialsin26]

Mathew, check your haynes manual again it should be in section 1-32 to 1-34.

[Matthew K]

hern,

I could move the wheel (when the PF was lifted) where I couldn't move the driver's side. I also had two shops confirm it was the bearing without telling them what I thought it was first. But, I will definitely check the sway bar links again! Thanks a lot for your input and advice.

 

Trailsin26,

After starting this post, I was looking through the maintenance section of the Haynes manual and found the section you're talking about. I knew it had to be in there somewhere! Thanks a lot!

 

Matt

[MaritimeMan]

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