Getting rear main seal replaced - anything else to check?

[Towncivilian]

I'm getting my leaky rear main seal replaced by Nissan on Wednesday for around $560. They will also be replacing my front seatbelts for free under warranty (they don't retract automatically) and inspecting the driver's side strut as per the recent recall. Is there anything else I should have them inspect or replace while they've got everything disassembled for the rear main seal replacement?

 

What is the part # for the rear main seal for a 2001.5 VQ35DE 2WD A/T? The service advisor claims it would be around $60, I'm wondering whether it'd be cheaper to get from Courtesy Parts.

 

EDIT: Called my local dealer's part department, part # is 12296-31U20. $38.26 vs $60, time to order!

Edited May 10, 2011 by Towncivilian

[MY1PATH]

Drain the TC and re-fill it with clean fluid.

[Towncivilian]

Okay, will note that. About how many quarts does it take, so I can supply my own fluid?

[ChrisPerna]

if you supply your own rear main and theres a problem with it your screwed.

[Towncivilian]

I will verify the part number tomorrow with the service advisor and ask him to double check with the master tech to ensure I order the correct part. I will also get a list of other parts required, if any, to compare prices.

[ChrisPerna]

im saying if it leaks and you dont buy the part from them your screwed. as a rule of thumb never supply parts if your getting a labor intensive job done.

[Towncivilian]

Ok, I will let the dealership provide the seal then. Thanks.

[ChrisPerna]

no problem. i got fskced once and it sucked

[XPLORx4]

I just had the RMS replaced on my Pathy, and they also had to replace an oil pan "lip seal" too (which they can't see until the tranny is separated). Labor rates being more in CA than they are in FL, I ended up paying $1K for the job.

 

I didn't have any other fluid-change services done, since they didn't lose a significant amount of ATF when they pulled the tranny. If you don't mind replacing the ATF yourself when it's time to do so, you don't need to have further work done.

Edited May 11, 2011 by XPLORx4

[Towncivilian]

I just had the RMS replaced on my Pathy, and they also had to replace an oil pan "lip seal" too (which they can't see until the tranny is separated). Labor rates being more in CA than they are in FL, I ended up paying $1K for the job.

 

I didn't have any other fluid-change services done, since they didn't lose a significant amount of ATF when they pulled the tranny. If you don't mind replacing the ATF yourself when it's time to do so, you don't need to have further work done.

I have kept up with ATF changes, I assume MY1PATH suggested draining and filling the torque converter because a lot of fluid is stored in there and it has no easily accessible drain plug.

[Towncivilian]

My service adviser misquoted the price - he thought I had a 3.3L engine. The cost blew up to $2000, but the service adviser was able to offer me a 10% discount. At $1800, still too much for a slow, small leak, so obviously I decided not to replace it.

[MY1PATH]

Take it to a transmission place. I paid less than that to have my tranny replaced and they had to swap the T-case. If its still to high, wait on it...

[Towncivilian]

I'll swing by AAMCO and maybe another shop and see what they quote for me then.