muddfildvaynes Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 (edited) I just ordered split poly bushings from 4x4parts for the 2 upper and a solid poly bushing for the control arm Edited March 6, 2011 by muddfildvaynes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 So do you think maybe the spacer blocks for the SFD should be welded in place while installing ? I'm really thinking long and hard whether I should get a SFD because of my style of wheeling. Rough and hard with alot of rock gardens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 So do you think maybe the spacer blocks for the SFD should be welded in place while installing ? I'm really thinking long and hard whether I should get a SFD because of my style of wheeling. Rough and hard with alot of rock gardens. They have handled the abuse I have thrown at them until now, I think you should be ok on the initial install with the bolts; but I am going with the welding option. They have held up on so far from the countless abuse I have put them through.... and it has been alot of abuse and alot of hard wheeling; we have plenty of granite here in NH. I think in the long run I dont ever plan on taking it out, unless it is to do a SAS and that is going to require more fabrication than I am already doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Thanks I'm still not sure whether I need it or not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Thanks I'm still not sure whether I need it or not I say do it, I have loved my SFD ever since I bought it and installed, I could do so much more stuff after I got it compared from before when I only had the 2" lift. Blieve me four more inches does alot, and being able to keep up with my buddies who are bigger was awsome. My pathfinder is constantly changing, and I have some big plans for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I'll see how my 33x12.50x15's fit then I will decide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0nkeyprince Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 hey, try to see if your hubs are seized, my left side warn hubs wouldnt unlock so whenever i drove at high speed, the wheel would shake. took me forver to figure one of the hubs werent working, i locked both sides and the vibrations were gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 I'll see how my 33x12.50x15's fit then I will decide. I am running 34x10.5x15s and I have plenty of room atill.... with 12.5 you are going to rub and peel your fender flares off... that is what happened to me. And you are going to have to do some trimming, 01Silverpathy has a thread on here somewhere about how to fit 33s with the 2" lift and it shows how much trimming he had to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 hey, try to see if your hubs are seized, my left side warn hubs wouldnt unlock so whenever i drove at high speed, the wheel would shake. took me forver to figure one of the hubs werent working, i locked both sides and the vibrations were gone Has brand new Mile Marker hubs on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 So not only am I welding the SFD brackets and replacing the bushings in my passenger side lower control arm and in the two upper links in my 4 link but I just bought the Jackson Autosports "missing link". Figured it would help stiffin up the front and it was really cheap, and I have heard good reviews on it; plus with my 34's is should definitly help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 So I finally have the brackets welded in, I had to turn the heat real low because it kept wanting to burn through but I got them welded on all 4 sides; I figure once this breaks it will be time to SAS. I test drove it and it feels much tighter in the front end, the Jackson Autosports "missing link" ahould help stiffin it up quite a bit also. Then new bushings for the passenger lower control arm and the top two links in my 4link and time for the 34s to go back on and the trails again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 So do you really think that this could be a complication of the sfd blocks not being tight? I have one of mine welded on cause the threads on the inside of the sub frame got fuggered up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 I think that they were loose just because of the wear and tear from all the abuse I have put them through. I would tighten them up and then they would loosen and have a little play eventually so instead of having to keep tightening them after every couple runs I just welded them. When I had my truck in the air I could grab my tire and shake it and watch the block shake because I had gotten mud between the block and frame so it was kind of pivoting on the caked mud from being loose a couple times; and I power washed it really good before I welded it to makse sure I got all the mud out. Plus alot of the wobble is coming from my lower control arm bushings being shot but I think it was all contributing to the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Yeah my rear links are starting to go too, its really bad how the rear pulls going over a rutted road. But im saving up my money for adjustable links with flex joints Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick13 Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Sorry, late on the draw on this one. Good find on the links. I'm also planning on welding my rear spacers, just hadn't done it yet. I put blue locktite on all bolts when installing and torqued them beyond belief, but I'm worried about the lateral stresses. I'm probably going to order the Jackson "missing link" also... Any ways, this was more of an FYI post...sorry if it clutters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Yeah my rear links are starting to go too, its really bad how the rear pulls going over a rutted road. But im saving up my money for adjustable links with flex joints I,m gonna have something to sell in a few weeks that will be worth it concerning the links... stay tuned... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 I,m gonna have something to sell in a few weeks that will be worth it concerning the links... stay tuned... please keep us updated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 (edited) Guess the plague finally hit my truck too. I had it once or twice before I got the 35's on, then I got the 35's on and it ran and drove great for a week or so but now I cant get above 40mph without getting really violent shaking of the front wheels. I replaced the rack and pinion bushings to no success. The balljoints were replaced about 3 months ago so I highly doubt that could be it. Both my- front struts are leaking which might well be causing the problem. Here is a list to what may be causing the issues -Tie Rods -Tire balance (highly doubt but will check) -Ball joints (again highly doubt) -Blown Struts -Wheel Bearings? -Alignment? -Steering Gear Box -Loose sub frame lift blocks? -Strut Bearings....squeak alot one of them is oem as far as I know with 114k on it I really dont know where to start with this list but until its fixed I pretty much cant go out of my development without worrying about this damn wobble! Any suggestions at all will be very helpful. Im planning on taking the two front tires off and getting them balanced again so I can just start slowly crossing causes off the list. Then I guess start with the cheap stuff first then go to the expensive stuff. I am planning on calling KYB as well and trying to get them warranteed out since they come with a lifetime warranty apparently. In terms of steering when the truck is off, I can grab the steering joint and twist it with my hand and the actual rack and pinon itself moves side to side...maybe brace it somehow? When the truck is on and I grab the steering joint I can turn the tires when its sitting still all tires on the ground. Also the gear box that is in the engine compartment looks to be wet around the bolt heads and top of it. Might be coincidence might not...I really dont know what to think at the moment. Edited September 23, 2011 by 01silvapathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Maybe it's your wheel spacers ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Nope truck ran great with them on for a week, it was an existing problem that just got exaggerated by larger tires. Atleast thats how im viewing it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Sounds like you are on the right track, but if everything checks out I would definitely look into tire balance/tread separation etc. could be some sort of premature tire problem, but it shouldn't be... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 (edited) Jack you pathy up and put jack stands on the unibody before the subframe to hold it up so the subframe hangs and isn't supported; like if you were to put it on a 2 post lift. shake your tires up and down and left and right, if it wobbles up and down its your wheel bearing. If it wobbles left and right its your steering/tie rod. Also look at the subframe drop blocks and espacially the LCA REAR bushing. When I fixed my death wobble it was a combination of my LCA rear bushing was shot and my sfd needed to be welded because the bolts kept loosening. Try this on both sides and pay attention to any movement because it is not supposed to move at all. Edited September 23, 2011 by muddfildvaynes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piste Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 One of the primary things larger tires will stress is the drivetrain...could be U-joints? One of the first things I'd do is get those struts replaced since they are leaking anyway. BTW...the KYB warranty is against manufacturers defect...something that could be pretty tough to prove in a strut. KYB does not warranty against normal wear or abuse...not saying you abused them....but struts ARE a wear item. Why is the steering rack moving around?? That shouldn't be...The mounts should secure it in place. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 Guess the plague finally hit my truck too. I had it once or twice before I got the 35's on, then I got the 35's on and it ran and drove great for a week or so but now I cant get above 40mph without getting really violent shaking of the front wheels. I replaced the rack and pinion bushings to no success. The balljoints were replaced about 3 months ago so I highly doubt that could be it. Both my- front struts are leaking which might well be causing the problem. Here is a list to what may be causing the issues -Tie Rods -Tire balance (highly doubt but will check) -Ball joints (again highly doubt) -Blown Struts -Wheel Bearings? -Alignment? -Steering Gear Box -Loose sub frame lift blocks? -Strut Bearings....squeak alot one of them is oem as far as I know with 114k on it I really dont know where to start with this list but until its fixed I pretty much cant go out of my development without worrying about this damn wobble! Any suggestions at all will be very helpful. Im planning on taking the two front tires off and getting them balanced again so I can just start slowly crossing causes off the list. Then I guess start with the cheap stuff first then go to the expensive stuff. I am planning on calling KYB as well and trying to get them warranteed out since they come with a lifetime warranty apparently. In terms of steering when the truck is off, I can grab the steering joint and twist it with my hand and the actual rack and pinon itself moves side to side...maybe brace it somehow? When the truck is on and I grab the steering joint I can turn the tires when its sitting still all tires on the ground. Also the gear box that is in the engine compartment looks to be wet around the bolt heads and top of it. Might be coincidence might not...I really dont know what to think at the moment. Don't forget: -Drive shaft -Ball joints -Bushings -U joints -Output and input bearings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 Figured it out...the sfd lift blocks had come loose and allowed the whole front subframe to move side to side. I retorqued the bolts and im going to have the blocks welded in since im never taking the lift off and the nuts tacked so they cant back off again. The lower control arm bushings also have some play in them along with the wheel bearings which are probably just loose since they looked just fine when I re greased them less than 5 months ago. Here is a video to help explain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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