mishikwest Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 (edited) Ok I've read every thread with "transmission" in the title, but still have questions about pulling manual 4wd tranny to do clutch. Already got driveshafts and exhaust off.. What else exactly has to come out? It looks like just the middle cross-member, the one supporting only the tranny. Why do the torsion springs have to come out? I must be missing something obvious. Starter? thx in advance. oh, yes I have the manual downloaded from here. Edited February 20, 2011 by mishikwest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 (edited) Yes, the starter T-bars come off because the Transfer case hangs over the T-bar x-member. If you have enough clearance (aka vehicle on a lift) You can get away with unbolting the T-bar X-member and prying it down about 9". This will give you room to tip the bell out a a slight angle and slide it foward once it clears the oil pan. Thats how AAMslow did it when they changed my auto tanny in the 94. Edited February 20, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mishikwest Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 (edited) Thanks! Got everything clear now but just cannot slide the monster back. It's on two jacks and a bottle jack under the oil pan. Is there just a perfect sweet spot of jack pressure to allow the thing to slide back? may just go get a tranny jack tomorrow Edited February 21, 2011 by mishikwest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 usually a pry bar between the engine and tranny gets it moving for me...make sure you have all the bolts out of the trans i think 6 from trans side and 4 from engine side...a motorcycle jack works wonders but i typically use an engine hoist thru the passenger side door.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mishikwest Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 (edited) Man what a nightmare getting the thing slid back...I didnt really know where the center of gravity / balance point on the thing to keep it in-line with the motor and not binding on the splines. Neutral point is right at the skid plate on the tc...afraid of putting it back in tonite Also, I put in a new rear main seal and the kit (fel-pro) and it came with a variety of fiber gaskets, none of which seem to line up with anything really. Should I just goop the recommend portion of the tranny mating surface and call it good? That's not really an oil proof seal either, just to keep water out? Also the rubber on that big metal gasket thing is pretty dry and sketchy. Edited February 21, 2011 by mishikwest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 I think my big metal gasket thing just had hold RTV on it so I scraped it off and reapplied. I think I had two pieces, which I "glued" together with RTV first, and then used RTV between that big gasket assembly and the transmission. But yeah, I believe it's just for water anyway. FSM says only to do it for 4wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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