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Locker types for R50


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Thats what was popping in my head. i just couldn't remember it exactly.

 

No problem :aok:

 

Just lookin for my options

 

 

Sadly there are not many options

If you have an LSD you can pack more clutch plates into the unit which gives it a higher breakaway rating.

Super packing

 

 

I believe there is a Lokka for the front diff also. In terms of lockers.

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I was actually thinking about welding my front diff at one time because I have the manual hubs and when driving I could just unlock them and have no problem.... but I don't think my cv's woul dbe able to handle the locked front wnd on the trail and blow through them everytime I took it out probably..... what does everyone else think?

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I was actually thinking about welding my front diff at one time because I have the manual hubs and when driving I could just unlock them and have no problem.... but I don't think my cv's woul dbe able to handle the locked front wnd on the trail and blow through them everytime I took it out probably..... what does everyone else think?

 

 

actually, they will be able to take it if you are also locked in the back... What kills an halfshaft (or any shaft) is the sudden grip they get when they spin fast then find grip.... When you are locked all 4, no shaft turns faster than the slowest of them... there is never a sudden snap or surge of traction... if you are not locked at the back, then you will put a lot of stress at the front to pull you... that might not work that good....

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So what you are telling me is I can weld the front and not put alot of $ into a locker and put a locker or a LSD with packed clutch discs in the rear and it will be ok?

 

 

not an lsd... a locker at the back that will not let go or unlock when it wants too... because when you'll be climbing rocks that grip alot, you do not want your rear to slip, because it will make your front try to spin at the same speed... and this will break them... Either a good arb locker, or weld the rear (or better, a spool), but I would definitely not take an lsd or an automatic locker (lockright). I have seen too many fail of these on the trail and they have a tendency to lock when they want to when they age...

 

S.

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ARB locker rear and weld the front.... sounds cheaper than 2 lockers....

 

Don't weld the front, that'll destroy your turning radius and potentially blow @!*% up. If anything do the opposite, weld the rear and ARB in the front. Or wait for the lockright lockers to come out and put one of those in the rear with an ARB in the front.

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Don't weld the front, that'll destroy your turning radius and potentially blow @!*% up. If anything do the opposite, weld the rear and ARB in the front. Or wait for the lockright lockers to come out and put one of those in the rear with an ARB in the front.

 

 

If you read the whole thread, you will know that he is planning on using manual hubs in the front... therefore no problems on the welded front.

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I still wouldn't weld the front. If I couldn't put a selectable locker in it then I'd rather run open. Welded front causes torque steer and puts tremendous stress. The problem is only fixed by manual hubs when the hubs are unlocked, if they're locked then your turning radius goes to @!*% again.

 

Thats personal preference based upon research. I'd be interested to hear from someone who has actually run a welded IFS front for a significant amount of time.

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I think you're mixing alot of things here... Welded front with manual hubs is exactly the same thing as front with an arb selectable. The only difference is I can lock the front without having to get out of the truck... Yes it's a pain in the a$$ to get out all the time, but you can safely do 90% of the trail with the front unlock and the rear locked.... then you lock it for the really tough climbs... it's a very good way of saving 1500$ if you ask me...

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