WOT Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 (edited) So this is aparently why you dont take your car "off-road" without a skid plate on it. I was doing some mild off roading last night to help a friend setup for his bush party for new years, I was basically blazing my own trail through 2' little bushes til we got to the clearing we used last year. Suddenly I heard hell break loose under my hood. I turned the car off instantly. What ended up happening it a few sticks got sucked into my serp belts and they both exploded and let go, taking some wiring with it, Im assuming the whipping belts did this. They ripped out 2 harness The first harness is a 2 wire connector attached to the power steering hardlines at the front right under the oil filter. What scares me about this one, is there is ALOT of wire length exposed, alot more than I think was ever there. Im thinking it may have pulled wire from further down in the harness?? You can see how much red/black there is after my fingers, but the pic doesnt show the 8+" that is also exposed towards the harness Then today when I got all my belts put back on and found all the bit and strings of old belt. I went to use my windshield washers... no fluid came out. Asked my gf to turn the wipers on while I felt the motors, and they werent turning on, I looked at there connectors... and the wires were ripped out.. DAMNIT!! I wasnt so pissed about this one, because my rear motor had already failed and it just forced me to replace it. So what I did today, was make a supoer washer fluid setup. I got 2 motors off of a pathfinder in my local junkyard (96-99 kind) and I solderred both motors positives and negative together so they would both turn on at the same time ( I wont have a rear motor, both are dedicated to front) and then I ran a hose from EACH motor, to its own nozzle on the hood. I tested it out just by touching the wire to my battery, and damn does it ever spray good and everywhere, exactly what I wanted and have been missing!! But, like I said the wires were ripped out of the factory motor all the way up to behind the headlight, they ripped what looks like 1" before they enter the main harness behind the headlight. Theres 6 waire all severred here Red/White Blue/White Red (thicker gauge) Black X 2 Green/Red So I had my gf hold the wipers on in the back position, like they should be spraying the windshield, and I figured one of those wires would have 12+V to turn the motors on, but none of them did... I tried looking for a fuse in the fuse box that would control the wipers, but nothing was labelled as such. Does anyone know which fuse supply powers the motors?? All I want to do is tap into a power that has power when the lever is pulled back in the cabin. So yeah, that was my exciting day, and I hope someone is a little more technical than I am because I cant read an FSM wiring diagram to save my life, and not putting these motors on a toggle switch would be nice. For the harness on the power steering I was thinking of trying to find another pathfinder in another yard and maybe just cutting the connector off and solderring it on, but its a long shot Ill fnd another pathfinder, so if possible Id love to save this connector somehow Thanks for any help!!!! Edited December 30, 2010 by WOT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skulptr Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 which fuse box did you check? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howie Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 (edited) I'm sorry that happened to you. It really blows. But I admire your electrical skills. I think for a lot of us here what happened to you would have been a very expensive trip to the mechanic, as opposed to an opportunity to upgrade your washer pumps! Anyway, you might find the following info helpful: (from the FSM) "WASHER OPERATION With the ignition switch in the ACC or ON position, power is supplied through 20A fuse [No. 19, located in the fuse block] to front washer motor terminal 1. When the lever is pulled to the WASH position, ground is supplied to front washer motor terminal 2 through terminal 18 of the front wiper switch through terminal 17 of the front wiper switch, and through body grounds E13 and E41. With power and ground supplied, the front washer motor operates. When the lever is pulled to the WASH position for one second or more, the front wiper motor operates at low speed for approximately 3 seconds to clean windshield. This feature is controlled by the wiper amplifier in the same manner as the intermittent operation." To answer your question (I think), the No. 19 20A fuse is located in the Junction Box, which is behind the door that opens like a pocket just to the left of the steering wheel (above your OBD-II port). You have to pull it past the first detent, then it comes right off. You'll see a bunch of fuses in a grid, with spare fuses in the lower right hand corner, along with a fuse puller. The fuses are numbered sequentially from the upper left to bottom right (like reading words on a page). So #1 is the upper left fuse, and #29 is the lower right. #19 is 4th row down, 4th column from the left. --Howie Edited December 31, 2010 by Howie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted December 31, 2010 Author Share Posted December 31, 2010 (edited) Wow that was indepth thanks!!! I did check both fuse boxes earlier, I just didnt see anything that mentions the washer motor. I will go check fuse #19 RIGHT NOW!!! EDIT: I checked the fuse, labelled FR Wiper, dont know how I missed that, I think I was glancing for the words pump/washer/motor I guess lol. Fuse is still good though. Anyone know what wire color in the harness that was ripped would be the wire to have power?? What I was "hoping" to do, is tap into a wire (preferably the correct one but it got it heart ripped out lol) close to the pumps to avoid ugly wiring runs so I can keep it clean looking. Ive never seen such "english" in the FSM before, it mostly makes no sence to me, and yes, the washer pumps combined sure are an upgrade!! Before I hated it how it barely trickled the window and didnt do much for the upper half, now the whole window gets soaked!! Mind you I definetely use alot more fluid but thats alright. Any idea the function of the power steering connector?? Is it just a fluid indicator?? If it is... Im deleting it They have a 96-98 style pathfinder in the junkyard close to me, would it use the same style connector or is the power steering setup and wiring different?? Edited December 31, 2010 by WOT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howie Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 What power steering connector are you referring to? Can you describe it better, or even a pic? I think I have enough power on my washer pump, but I have had to redirect the nozzles every once in a while to get complete coverage. --Howie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted December 31, 2010 Author Share Posted December 31, 2010 Do the pictures in the first post not appear?? You can see the connector in the center of the second pic, one inch above the orange circle, you can see where the wires were ripped right out of the base of the connector Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howie Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 Oh, sorry. Yeah, the pictures came out well, and I just went back and re-read the part about the power steering hard lines. I'm not too sure about that. Will have to dig some more in the FSM to find out what that thing does. It will be harder to find, I'm sure, and I'm tired now so going to bed. --Howie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 The P/S switch is just to up the idle a little when you are turning. I wouldn't worry about reconnecting it unless you engine stumbles when turning the wheel but you do want to find the wires that go to it and isolate them. The front washer pump should have a red wire and a blue/white wire for them. The red comes from fuse 19 and the blue and white goes back to the switch. The motor should have power all the time, and the switch grounds it to run. Look on page EL-157 in the 2001 pathfinder FSM. In the wiring diagrams "L" stands for blue. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted December 31, 2010 Author Share Posted December 31, 2010 I guess that means the wires are broken further down than I hoped i they dont have power at there ends. Damnit!! I dont want to have to hack that huge factory harness apart to find the break. Thanks for your help guys, Im jealous at how easily you can read the FSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 If fuse 19 isn't blown you do have a live wire some were in the harness. The worst it could do is blow the fuse if it shorts though. The other wire for the P/S switch could cause you some idle problems if it shorts. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 hmmm Do you think there is a way to get power to the pumps when i pull the column lever back?? to function like oem is what id like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Without digging the wires out of the harness the only way you could make it work like factory would be to find the wires at the fuse box and steering column then tap into them and run new wires to the motors. The power could come from any ignition source but the ground would have to come from the wiper switch to work like OEM. I would just try digging them out, they couldn't have broken too far down the harness. You could follow the harness back a couple of feet then open the loom and find the two wire colors. When you find them test them with a meter before you cut into them. The red wire should have power with the key on and loose power when you pull fuse 19. Hook you positive lead from your meter to the battery positive and the negative lead to the blue/white wire. Have someone pull the wiper switch back to run the washers and if it's the right wire the meter will show power. Now cut these two wires and splice into them with new wires (speaker wire will work fine) and run them to the washer motors. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Did you get this fixed up yet or are you waiting for some warm weather? James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Ya man youre explanation was perfect and worked like a charm. I figured out where the break was, it was around the back of the headlight, so I cut out that 18" of wire portion or so that went to the factory pump. Then I found the 2 wires you explained in the main harness, a thick gauge red with that had a constant 12V but lost power when pulling fuse 19, then the blue/white that triggerred ground. All solderred to my dual pump harness and shrink wrapped and loomed ofcourse, came out looking factory And the best thing of all is that works with the factory column switch by pulling it back like it should, no ghettoness, and the dual pumps pushing each nozzle throws a crazy ammount of fluid, I should take a video after I aim them a bit better. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Ya man youre explanation was perfect and worked like a charm. I figured out where the break was, it was around the back of the headlight, so I cut out that 18" of wire portion or so that went to the factory pump. Then I found the 2 wires you explained in the main harness, a thick gauge red with that had a constant 12V but lost power when pulling fuse 19, then the blue/white that triggerred ground. All solderred to my dual pump harness and shrink wrapped and loomed ofcourse, came out looking factory And the best thing of all is that works with the factory column switch by pulling it back like it should, no ghettoness, and the dual pumps pushing each nozzle throws a crazy ammount of fluid, I should take a video after I aim them a bit better. Thanks again Great new, I'm glad you got it fixed. The dual pumps is a good idea too. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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