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What speakers to buy and how to replace rotors


Guest USMCDEVILDOG
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Guest USMCDEVILDOG

Does anyone know of any good speakers to replace my stock ones? Most of them are blown and I can't figure out what size they are or how easy they would be to replace. It is 1995.

One more thing, sorry all, this is my first post and I got a few things to ask. Has anyone tried to replace the front rotors on there Pathfinder and how easy/hard is it to do. I got new calipers about a year ago, but my brakes squeak a bit in the morning when I first apply them and I think I need new rotors and pads. The last time I tried replacing the pads, my front driver side wheel locked up on me while I was driving and almost ignited my truck on fire. I had to get the calipers replaced from that ordeal. Thanks All.

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isnt it 4x6s in the front and 5x7s in the back? Pioneers are nice Eclipse niceee! MB Quart Very NICE, never liked any sony speakers, you can prolly fit some 6x9s in the back with some trimming. Coaxials are nice easy replacements but Components alow you to put you tweets where you want them in thus raising of lowering you sound stage.

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Guest USMCDEVILDOG

Thank you very much for the info. I wish I would've found this website and forum page a long time ago. Would have saved me a lot of time and money on doing things to my pathy.

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I just replaced the front rotors on my 95 and it wasn't too bad. It just takes a little time. The first one took me about two hours and the second took probably 30 minutes since I learned from my mistakes on the first rotor. Definately buy the Chiltons or Haynes service manual though, it will pay for itself pretty quick. The tools you will need are a set of torx sockets(can't remember the exact size), Rachet and metric sockets, Breaker Bar, flat head and phillips screw driver, high temp wheel bearing grease, thrust or wd-40, and snap ring pliers.

 

1. First you raise the car on and put it on jack stands.

2. Take off the tire

3. Then you will use the torx socket to take off the outer hub assembly

make sure you keep all the parts in order so that reassembly is easy.

4. You will then have to take off a snap ring, if you don't have snap ring pliers you can use very thin tipped needle nosed pliers and slide that off.

5. Then you will see a washer with two screws through it. Take the screws out.

6. You then will see the backing plate the washer was screwed into. This is threaded on the axle and you will have to unscrew it. I found it was easy to use the needle nose pliers and grip two of the holes and twist it off.

7. After everything is removed from the axle you can now go ahead and unbolt the caliper and caliper support bracket(may have to use a breaker bar.

8. The rotor and the part with the wheel studs is attached should slide off.

9. You then will have to unbolt the part with the wheel studs and rotor

10. Reinstall the new rotor and reassemble everything making sure you use enough wheel bearing grease on everything. You should also examine your wheel bearings at this time and the caliper to caliper bracket pins to see if they move freely.

 

Hope this helps. I may have left some stuff out but this should get you going. Later.

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6. You then will see the backing plate the washer was screwed into. This is threaded on the axle and you will have to unscrew it. I found it was easy to use the needle nose pliers and grip two of the holes and twist it off.

 

 

 

 

if i remember correctly my chiltons book said this particular piece should be tightened with a torque wrench. i would go out and buy this book chiltons or haynes.. i got my money out that book the first day i needed it.. go get it.. it gives torque settings and just about anything you could ever want.. i actaully just got a dealership repair manual for mine.. i have a 92.. holy crap that thing is like 10 times as big as haynes or chiltons which i have both for some odd reason. anyway go get one of those it will help a great deal with minor or major repairs to your trucke

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