EBC or DBA?

[m0nkeyprince]

right now, ive already decided on ebc greenstuff 7000's but for the rotors, im still debating.

 

DBA 4000, with "kangaroo paw" cooling, the 6x6 wiper design http://dba.com.au/4000-series

 

or

 

EBC USR http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/sport_slotted_brake_rotors/ultimax_blackdash_usr_slotted_rotors.shtml

 

 

anybody used these rotors before?

Edited October 15, 2010 by m0nkeyprince

[krmiller07]

right now, ive already decided on ebc greenstuff 7000's but for the rotors, im still debating.

 

DBA 4000, with "kangaroo paw" cooling, the 6x6 wiper design http://dba.com.au/4000-series

 

or

 

EBC USR http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/sport_slotted_brake_rotors/ultimax_blackdash_usr_slotted_rotors.

 

anybody used these rotors before?

 

Hi there,

 

I happen to work for a company in Minnesota that cryogenically treats rotors. My link. I can help you make a selection with your Pathy. I have personally jusy installed a set of Hawk "LTS" pads on my pathy and love them. They are specifically designed for Light Trucks and SUV's. Hence the name LTS. Those pads combined with either the slotted or non-slotted Frozen rotors, have been very popular with the Nissan Titan owners, as they suffer from extreme premature pad and rotor wear and failure. I also carry the DBA-4000 series rotors and from what I have witnessed they are a very high quality product. It all comes down to you needs and budget. The frozen or cryogenically treated rotors will, in most cases double your rotor life. I have personally recieved customer claims of 160-180,000 miles out of our rotors on 1 ton construction trucks. At the very LEAST you can expect to double the normal life of Non-Treated rotors.

We do the 60 hour cryo treatment over the weekends and the finished product is available for shipping on Mondays ( We've been doing this for 14 years).We also treat complete engines and drive train components (gears,axles, ring and pinions etc.) If you call us at 1-888-323-8456 ask for Mark or Bill.Or you can email me direct at km@frozenrotors.com. I'm in the office Tuesdays - Thursdays 8:00 am-5:30 pm CST. They can give you a detailed quote. Make sure to mentioned you coresponded with me. You'll qualify for a 10% dicount on 1 axle set of pads and rotors. And 15% discount on 2 axles sets of pads and rotors. 1 axle set= both fronts, 2 axle sets= front and rears.

We'll honor and offer this discount to all members of this forum if you mention this site and mention my name only

 

You can also check out what our customer have said about our products and services on wwww.titantalk.com

 

Hope this helps,

 

Keith

Edited October 15, 2010 by krmiller07

[XSrcing]

Honestly, it will be a waste of money for your truck unless you are doing some seriously heavy hauling or off road racing. Slotted rotors also reduce pad life.

 

I had some Vato-zone $27 rotors cryo treated and put them on my old Integra track car. They performed just as good as the Powerslot rotors I replaced, and lasted a lot longer.

[krmiller07]

Honestly, it will be a waste of money for your truck unless you are doing some seriously heavy hauling or off road racing. Slotted rotors also reduce pad life.

 

I had some Vato-zone $27 rotors cryo treated and put them on my old Integra track car. They performed just as good as the Powerslot rotors I replaced, and lasted a lot longer.

Slotting is an option...not a requirement. I'm sure the cryo treating attributed to the longer life. We've found slotting does not INCREASE pad wear. It all depends on how the slotting is machined into the rotors, and how deep and long the slots are. Slotting all the way across the friction surface of the rotor (From the very inside, to the very outer edge) will undoubtably increase wear, and may even cause chunking of the pads.

[m0nkeyprince]

you have a point, but i drive through mountain roads quite often, and ive only expierience brake fade twice, they were almost the scariest moments of my life, so i was thinking better rotors would keep cooler a bit. thanks for the replies!

[krmiller07]

you have a point, but i drive through mountain roads quite often, and ive only expierience brake fade twice, they were almost the scariest moments of my life, so i was thinking better rotors would keep cooler a bit. thanks for the replies!

Your welcome. I noticed you are located in the Bay Area. What part? I used to live in Monterey and when I'd take trips up to Tahoe or into Northern CA, My brakes were always getting a work out. I owned a 300ZX and a New Pathfinder, they were always just short of burning up even when I used as much engine braking as much as possible. Those are areas you don't want to find your self without binders!

Edited October 16, 2010 by krmiller07

[m0nkeyprince]

monterey? thats crazy, i go down there all the time! i m from cupertino, its near san jose, yeah, CA-17 can really take a toll on your brakes, and suspension, luckily im getting my shocks and struts in a week or two, where do you live at now?

Edited October 16, 2010 by m0nkeyprince

[MY1PATH]

you have a point, but i drive through mountain roads quite often, and ive only expierience brake fade twice, they were almost the scariest moments of my life, so i was thinking better rotors would keep cooler a bit. thanks for the replies!

 

Have you looked into going 4whee disc? I think nissannut.com has a page on it for the r50.

I have driven the stretch on i20 from hwy1 to hwy101 manytimes before and after my 4wheel disc swap on my WD21 and I gotta say, much better after.

More fun, more control, better pedal feel and response, just better!!!

[m0nkeyprince]

i looked at the website, and whoah! you did all that for the rear disc brake conversion? thats some spirit, it looks like a b*cth to do. Maybe when i have more time, ill try it out, really want rear brake disc... but now, i need to focus on front rotors and pads first..hmmm i think im leaning on the dba 4000 + ebc 7000 green stuff right now, if i could find a deal for the dba's then ill probably take it

Edited October 16, 2010 by m0nkeyprince

[MY1PATH]

i looked at the website, and whoah! you did all that for the rear disc brake conversion? thats some spirit, it looks like a b*cth to do. Maybe when i have more time, ill try it out, really want rear brake disc... but now, i need to focus on front rotors and pads first..hmmm i think im leaning on the dba 4000 + ebc 7000 green stuff right now, if i could find a deal for the dba's then ill probably take it

 

 

Actually its a straight swap for the 87-95 pathfinders so I did not do all that, I did less lol. But If I had and R50 I would likey still do it all. I never driven an r50 so I would not know but I'm guessing it would be worth it.

[XSrcing]

The biggest factor is reducing brake fade is finding the right brake pad. The next is getting as much material in the brake rotor to dissipate any generated heat. Slotting and cross-drilling rotors reduce mass.

 

Slotted and C-drilled rotors were created for motorsports applications where the brakes received sudden, and extreme applications that would cause pad-gassing temps in a split second, and where there were only mere moments too cool between applications. On the street, they are merely for looks.

[krmiller07]

monterey? thats crazy, i go down there all the time! i m from cupertino, its near san jose, yeah, CA-17 can really take a toll on your brakes, and suspension, luckily im getting my shocks and struts in a week or two, where do you live at now?

I live in Minneapolis, MN. XS racing is partly correct. Cross drilling and slotting did originate in Motorsports, however the amount of material removed has NO impact on mass. The biggest factor is pad selection. I have not AND do not recommend cross drilling due to the fact that even rotors that are factory drill in the manufacturing process, will eventually, under extreme use, cause heat cracking, starting around the holes. Cross drilling evolved as an attempt to channel WATER off of the disc surface during wet weather use. Which it does pretty well! Then the heat takes over. It does provide a minimum amount of heat reduction, but not enough to warrant the high likely hoood of cracking. Slotting (again if it's needed) will also reduce over heating. I've proven that by using an infa-red pryometer to check brake tempatures, and most rotors and pads will see about a 100 degree reduction in rotor and pad temps. Obviously concentrating more air flow through or over these components also helps significantly. Our tests did not usr Brake Ducting to reduce the temps. We have, after 14 years of treating, slotting, dimppling, and cross drilling have NEVER seen one of our rotors crack do to slotting. On the othe hand cross drilled rotors will fill up with brake pad material after a period of extreme use, as will dimpling. Therefore we recommend and offer ONLY slotting witha 5x3 pattern. 5 rows of 3 slots that DO NOT extend to the inner or outer edges of the rotors.