Front wheel click

[skulptr]

before you go to pounding out the races, what are you using to torque down the bearing lock nut? if its not tight enough, it will allow slop in the wheel, causing possible clicking. mine was loose, found that out the hard way. when you tighten the bearing, your supposed to torque, spin the hub, torque again, spin again, and so on until its done. mostly i'm just curious what your using, since i cant find a tool anywhere specific for this, and i just broke my last pair of long handle bent nose needle nose pliers

[Dowser]

A word to the wise. Although the 95's and R50's differ, you can bet there will be a inner seal there and to get the wheel bearing and race out you'll have to remove the seal. Purchase a new seal for the re-installation. Its always good practice to not try and reuse the old ones hahaha.

 

Seals can be pricey when purchased from a dealership. I had to buy a seal that was $64.00 Canadian for my Passenger side because my daughter that was helping me decided to put her bucket of sand from her sand box next to the component with the exposed seal and got a ton of sand in it.

[02silverpathy]

Solution!

for real this time!

 

After ordering parts and fixing things at about 20 min intervals before work and after work I have replaced both wheel bearings (inner & outter). I did not replace the races as they looked like they required lots of time and mine didn't have any damage to them.

 

It turns out that there was 25-33% more slop in the old bearings than the new ones...these new bearings made my noise go away!

 

There is a tool made by the AST company to tighten lock nuts on our Nissans, but it is quite expensive. You can buy the GM 4wd tool at autozone or advance auto and grind off 2 of the points (GM's use all four points), and have yourself a tool for 1/2 what I paid for mine.

Edited September 24, 2010 by 02silverpathy