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Brake Pedal Pulsation


95Finder
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Hello, I just picked up a 1995 Patfinder XE today for 1,000. The Pathfinder has been sitting for around 4 months. When I drove it home the brake pedal pulsates very noticeably. Does this just mean I need new rotors or could it be something else. Thanks.

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if the rotors are under or close to their minimum thickness limits, they will need to be replaced ... if there is plenty of thickness available, they will need to be "turned" or machined true again. Many places will do a free brake inspection, so you can determine whether or not they need replacement. I would recommend doing this asap so as to not reduce the life of your brake pads and hardware ...

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if the rotors are under or close to their minimum thickness limits, they will need to be replaced ... if there is plenty of thickness available, they will need to be "turned" or machined true again. Many places will do a free brake inspection, so you can determine whether or not they need replacement. I would recommend doing this asap so as to not reduce the life of your brake pads and hardware ...

I can do the inspection myself, what is the minimum thickness they can be at, also how much does it usually cost to turn a rotor(I have always just replaced them). I can find rotors for 30 a piece should I just go with new or have the old ones turned? Are worn rotors most likely the cause of the pulsation? Anything else major it could be? Thanks.

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Hey 95Finder. The specs for the rotors are .945" and .0028" runout for the front, .630" for rear and 10.24"-10.30" if its rear drum; at least thats what chilton says.... I'm assuming you have the idicators, mikes, calipers... I'm not sure what it costs in your area, but it should be less than $30 a piece. Its not worn rotors thats your issue, its warped rotors. The warp spreads/narrows the brake pad gap, hence the pulsing in the petal. Throw an indicator on it and see, I'll bet on it. It is possible that there are some front end problems that could cause vibration on braking, but these would be felt more through the steering wheel. There is a good write up on caliper slide pins (or something like that) around here, I believe its in the garage under improtant topics. While you are there, you may as well grease them. Have fun :aok:

 

Bernard

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$8 each to turn them (here where I live) if you bring them in yourself. Taking them off yourself, however, is another matter...hehehe.

How hard it it to take the old rusted ones off? On my Supra there are two threaded holes that you can screw a bolt into that pushes the old rotor off. Any thing like that on the Pathfinder. Or am I going to have to beat them off?

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I believe the issue might also be the rotors, but did you check the tires for "sit spots" as I call them? It the PF has not moved in a couple months there might be some damage to the tires.

 

~Jason

but that would be noticed without the brakes applied ...

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Taking them off isn't bad...all you need is a nice air compressor and an impact wrench...and a sledge hammer...and lots of oil/WD-40 type stuff. Actually in most cases mine haven't been that bad to get off. A little light pounding and they usually come free. If that doesn't work hire a demolitions expert to blow them off. Of course, I have heard of people who say even the brake shops had trouble getting them off. So, I guess it depends on how lucky you are too.

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Finished, put the new pads and rotors on. The drivers side took me a while, the passenger side took about 30 minutes because I had learned exactly how to do it. Snap rings are a pita without the snap ring pliers :). The drivers side wasn't too bad, but the passenger side the pads were very thick towards the outside and down to the backing plate on the inside. Both rotors were warped pretty bad. It made a huge difference. No more pulsation. Now I just need to figure out if my alternator is the cause of the brake warning light, a/t temp light, and battery light being on. Need to borrow a tester and see whats up with it. Should it be charging the battery at 12.5 to 14.5? Thanks. Later

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