87 Pathfinder Issues

[gramby1988]

Hey Im new to NPORA I just got an 87 pathfinder xe as a Project it runs great was just rebuilt but it sputters at 2800 rpm every time. I am also having issues with it dieing when i push in the clutch has anyone every heard of this or experienced i could use some help. Thanks

[nismothunder]

Clutch no disconecting all the way?

[edicer2]

do those have mass air flow sensors? mine would do that on my 92 when i push the clutch in and it would die. it ended up being the connector that connects to my MAF get getting a short from my hood hitting it over the years so i replaced the connector and it works fine now. But like i said idk if those have a MAF or not since im used to the vg30e not the vg30i

[Kingman]

Yes they do. All electronically controlled motors have a MAF sensor. On the TBI it's located on the throttle body under the air cleaner.

[nismothunder]

The sputtering could be the rotor...

[gramby1988]

Thanks guys i will try that and let you know what happens thanks again...

[gramby1988]

clutch issue was fixed but im still having an issue with the rpm i cant figure out why my revs wont go over three grand anyone have any ideas.

[jj big shoe]

was just rebuilt

Did it ever get over 3000 RPMs since you've had it or did this problem happen after the rebuild? Check the timing yet?

[gramby1988]

the issue started after the rebuild bought it from a friend the issue actually started after he put a new dizzy on but i can not figure it out.

[jj big shoe]

That's prolly your problem. Get the #1 piston to top dead center on the compression stroke. To do that, remove the #1 spark plug (passenger side closest to the grille). Turn the crank clockwise by hand and put you finger over the plug hole. When you feel air pushing your finger off the hole, that's the compression stroke. Now either look down the hole or put a dowel, wire or something that won't scratch the piston surface into the hole and determine when the piston is at its highest point. That's TDC. The rotor inside your distributor should be pointing at the contact inside that corresponds to the #1 plug wire. If not, pull the dist out and line the gear up so that it does. Put it all back together and check it with a timing light. Factory timing is about 12, but 15 seems to work a little better IMO.

The timing marks on the crank pulley are in 5 degree increments going clockwise. The first is zero, then clockwise next is 5, then 10 and so on. They're hard to see so you may need to highlight them with white-out or something. When you're at TDC, the pointer on the timing cover should line up with the zero mark. That'll let you know where they start.

On my 87, the crank pulley and balancer are two separate pieces. This means the pulley can actually be mounted to the balancer incorrectly which would throw the timing marks waaaay off. If your rebuilder did this, you'd know by the TDC/pointer at zero check I mentioned earlier. No big deal, you'd just have to unbolt and mount the pulley correctly.

If the dist already lines up when at TDC or this doesn't help, the timing belt may be a couple teeth off. To check that, you'll have to pull the accessory belts and timing belt covers off and count the belt teeth between the gears. There should be 40 teeth between the timing marks on the left and right cam gears and 43 between the left (driver's) cam gear and crank gear marks.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[gramby1988]

still having the same issue i got the dizzy where it needs to be and when i checked it with the timing light im not getting consistent spark i am thinking it might be the coil or module or both does that make sense. any ideas?

[87BeachCruiser]

Does is sputter at 2800 and then go past it or is it running in safe mode (won't go over 3K)?

 

I ask because I have that hesitation at roughly 2800 - 3K and then it's fine above it. I'm throwing Crank Angle Sensor Code but haven't switched out the distributor or otherwise gotten to the bottom of the problem, so I'm interested in what you find. There's a few similar threads on both that 'hesitation' and lots on problems with the trucks running in safe mode. Sorry I'm no real help here, just interested in your problem.

[jj big shoe]

You, sir, are in fail safe mode. [Man, I learn more about my own truck looking up stuff in the FSM for other people.]

 

The FSM says (paraphrasing):

1. Air flow meter malfunction

If the AFM output voltage is less than the specified value, the throttle sensor substitutes for the AFM. It is still possible to drive, but engine speed will not go over 2800 RPM to warn the driver of the problem

2. Injector malfunction

When RPM is less than 2000 in the alternating injection mode and injection pulse angle is less than 79 degrees (crank angle), if one injector doesn't inject fuel four times in a row because of an electrical problem the ECU senses this and will not go over 2800 RPM.

 

The air flow meter (or mass air flow sensor [MAF] as its usually referred to around here) measures the air going into the engine thru the throttle body. Its a black rectangular plastic box mounted on the driver's side of the throttle body, a little bigger than a Zippo lighter, and will have one plug with six or eight wires going to it. There's a write-up on how to clean it on this forum somewhere so try that first.

 

The crank angle sensor is part of the distributor and AFAIK cannot be replaced by itself. You need a new dist if it fails. The sensor monitors engine speed and piston position for the ECU (engine control unit). This signal is the basis for fuel injection and ignition timing.

 

Even though number 2 says "injector malfunction" its prolly not the injector itself. The problem is more likely the sensor that controls or monitors when the injector is supposed to fire which would be the crank angle sensor (CAS).

 

I don't have first hand knowledge of the CAS going kaput but based on what I've read on this forum, that's the likely culprit.

 

If no one else chimes in and confirms what I think it is, start another thread with the topic "Is my crank angle sensor bad?" or something. I'd hate to point you in the wrong direction.

Good luck.

[gramby1988]

Would I show a code on my Ecu if I was in safe mode because I checked the codes and it said it was normal.

[jj big shoe]

I would think you'd have an 11 (CAS) or possibly a 12 (MAF) code, but anything other than 55 (no malfunction) needs to be corrected. There's a write up in the "how to" section of the garage if you're not sure how to pull the codes. Like I said I'm no expert on it, but it sounds to me like you're in fail safe mode for some reason.

 

Maybe someone who's truck has been in fail safe mode could chime in and desribe what the engine sounds like or something?

Edited April 24, 2010 by jj big shoe

[gramby1988]

I'm getting four greens and four reds

[jj big shoe]

Is that in mode 3? Those are stored codes, but I would think you'd see something...

Click this link and read the entire first post. Follow the proceedure for Mode 5, real time diagnostics. Mode 5 looks like it specifically tests the CAS and MAF. If Mode 5 checks out I'm pretty much flat out of ideas other than making a new post with all the symptoms and the sequence of what you've tried already. That should get a response from others who might have some direction for you. Good luck.

[nismothunder]

4 green and 4 red =44 so its all good(if you read them right)

[gramby1988]

I was in mode three and got four greens and four reds

[gramby1988]

i think i got it figured out im pretty sure its the tps i will have a brand new tomorrow i will let you guys know how it goes.

[gramby1988]

I finally brke down and took my pathy to a mechanic that has more knowledge than me I will let you guys know the verdict

[majestic12]

You, sir, are in fail safe mode. [Man, I learn more about my own truck looking up stuff in the FSM for other people.]

 

The FSM says (paraphrasing):

1. Air flow meter malfunction

If the AFM output voltage is less than the specified value, the throttle sensor substitutes for the AFM. It is still possible to drive, but engine speed will not go over 2800 RPM to warn the driver of the problem

2. Injector malfunction

When RPM is less than 2000 in the alternating injection mode and injection pulse angle is less than 79 degrees (crank angle), if one injector doesn't inject fuel four times in a row because of an electrical problem the ECU senses this and will not go over 2800 RPM.

 

The air flow meter (or mass air flow sensor [MAF] as its usually referred to around here) measures the air going into the engine thru the throttle body. Its a black rectangular plastic box mounted on the driver's side of the throttle body, a little bigger than a Zippo lighter, and will have one plug with six or eight wires going to it. There's a write-up on how to clean it on this forum somewhere so try that first.

 

The crank angle sensor is part of the distributor and AFAIK cannot be replaced by itself. You need a new dist if it fails. The sensor monitors engine speed and piston position for the ECU (engine control unit). This signal is the basis for fuel injection and ignition timing.

 

Even though number 2 says "injector malfunction" its prolly not the injector itself. The problem is more likely the sensor that controls or monitors when the injector is supposed to fire which would be the crank angle sensor (CAS).

 

I don't have first hand knowledge of the CAS going kaput but based on what I've read on this forum, that's the likely culprit.

 

If no one else chimes in and confirms what I think it is, start another thread with the topic "Is my crank angle sensor bad?" or something. I'd hate to point you in the wrong direction.

Good luck.

hi,I have a few questions .First let me say that Im working on a 1987 pathy 2.4l TBI.Its seems to be in fail safe mode,cant rev it past 2500,and its miss firing at idle.I think its MAF related,I don know how to test it,I have a ohm meter just need test specs.I have dissconnected MAF and it doesnt affect it.I have power going into MAF but.I dont have a FSM to check voltages on the rest of wiring.I also need Voltage adjustment specs for TPS (@ idle).Can you help I just need a FSM pdf.So I can Trace wires to ecu.Please help thanks.