leggs Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 (edited) I have a 2001 path, need to replace the two rear O2 sensors. ANy tricks or advice out there? Edited December 3, 2009 by 94extreme just added model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 If you are in the rust belt, get a machanic to quote a flat rate and let them do it... First thing is to soak the threads with a penetrant like PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc. If that doesn't let you break it loose, try heating up the bung around it with a propane torch. Wear safety glasses at all times, keep the rust and chemicals out of your eyes. Some people have a hell of a time with them, other report minimal difficulty. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnm Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 (edited) 1) Make sure you get the correct length wires. 2) Tie a string on the end of the wire when you pull it down (or up) between the engine and firewall. Then tie the new O2 sensor wire to the string and pull it back down. Makes getting the wire routed correctly easier. 3) The drivers side wire is really difficult to get unfastened from the factory tie locations. Be patient, expect some scratches. 4) Zip ties are your friend, when you re secure the wires, make sure they are away from the exhaust pipes. 5) The drivers side O2 sensor is covered by a heat shield extension which you will have to bend out of the way unless you have an offset drive box wrench or O2 socket. 6) Unless they are really rusted into place, once you break them loose they will probably unscrew by hand. 7) Unplug and pull out the wires FIRST before unscrewing, screw the new ones in THEN route the wires, so you aren't fighting with the wiring harness twisting. 8) Don't forget the anti-seize when you put the new ones in. That's all I can think of from doing my 99...some of these may not apply. Edited November 25, 2009 by johnm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leggs Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 If you are in the rust belt, get a machanic to quote a flat rate and let them do it... First thing is to soak the threads with a penetrant like PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc. If that doesn't let you break it loose, try heating up the bung around it with a propane torch. Wear safety glasses at all times, keep the rust and chemicals out of your eyes. Some people have a hell of a time with them, other report minimal difficulty. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leggs Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 Thanks, i live in CAnada so as expected they are really on there good. Going to have the local garage give it a go Leggs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leggs Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 1) Make sure you get the correct length wires. 2) Tie a string on the end of the wire when you pull it down (or up) between the engine and firewall. Then tie the new O2 sensor wire to the string and pull it back down. Makes getting the wire routed correctly easier. 3) The drivers side wire is really difficult to get unfastened from the factory tie locations. Be patient, expect some scratches. 4) Zip ties are your friend, when you re secure the wires, make sure they are away from the exhaust pipes. 5) The drivers side O2 sensor is covered by a heat shield extension which you will have to bend out of the way unless you have an offset drive box wrench or O2 socket. 6) Unless they are really rusted into place, once you break them loose they will probably unscrew by hand. 7) Unplug and pull out the wires FIRST before unscrewing, screw the new ones in THEN route the wires, so you aren't fighting with the wiring harness twisting. 8) Don't forget the anti-seize when you put the new ones in. That's all I can think of from doing my 99...some of these may not apply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leggs Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 thakns for the awesome step by step help but they are in there too darn hard, going to the garage for help Leggs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 thakns for the awesome step by step help but they are in there too darn hard, going to the garage for help Leggs Yeah, so my '96's O2 sensors were 'rust-welded' to the exhaust pipe but I did manage to remove the one that was causing me problems. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be decent thread in the pipe anymore to allow the new sensor to thread in properly, whether from the rust or from me wrenching the old one out. Should I: A. Try to re-thread the pipe fitting? I am pretty sure I can borrow the equipment for that. B. Buy a new pipe section ($40 at rockauto.com) and replace the current one (its flange bolts look rust-welded too...) C. Heed to the advice of someone with a better idea, pending that idea is out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 choose B by the time you break a drill bit, and buy a tap, you'll be at 40 bucks, and at least what your getting into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 I'm going with B also. You can probably get out/break off and replace the flange bolts fairly easily. A. Try to re-thread the pipe fitting? I'm pretty sure it is not a pipe thread. I thought I heard my exhaust shop say it was a 14mm?? I can double check... by the time you break a drill bit, and buy a tap, you'll be at 40 bucks I agree in principle, but those are some expensive cutting tools!! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 I'm going with B also. You can probably get out/break off and replace the flange bolts fairly easily. I'm pretty sure it is not a pipe thread. I thought I heard my exhaust shop say it was a 14mm?? I can double check... I agree in principle, but those are some expensive cutting tools!! B your going to need them, you ever tried to drill through an exhaust flange after its been hot and cold 1000 times? your going to need quality cutting tools are you'll just be waisting money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 (edited) your going to need them, you ever tried to drill through an exhaust flange after its been hot and cold 1000 times? your going to need quality cutting tools are you'll just be waisting money. So basically buy the exhaust pipe, take the parts to the local garage and say, "here ya go". Been there, done that when it comes to working on the 'finder... Thanks for the advice, guys. Sounds like its best to leave this stuff to the mechanics. Edited December 2, 2009 by dkpath96 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 actually when it comes to exhaust parts.. I just take it to them and tell them to fix it. cheaper and easier in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 So basically buy the exhaust pipe, take the parts to the local garage and say, "here ya go". Been there, done that when it comes to working on the 'finder... Thanks for the advice, guys. Sounds like its best to leave this stuff to the mechanics. If you don't do a lot of mechanical work, don't have a good tool selection or place to work, are on a time limit, etc, then yes, sometimes it's worth taking it to the people who prepared and experienced. In this case, I would probably just bring them the truck and the O2 sensors unless you know they will give you a good price on them. Don't bother replacing the pipe yet, let them try to get them out; I'm sure they know all the tricks... your going to need them, you ever tried to drill through an exhaust flange after its been hot and cold 1000 times?your going to need quality cutting tools are you'll just be waisting money. I have worked on some exhausts and they are not that bad but then I deal with a lot of prehard and full hard tool and stainless steels... I do agree though, quality tools make a huge difference!! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 If you don't do a lot of mechanical work, don't have a good tool selection or place to work, are on a time limit, etc, then yes, sometimes it's worth taking it to the people who prepared and experienced. In this case, I would probably just bring them the truck and the O2 sensors unless you know they will give you a good price on them. Don't bother replacing the pipe yet, let them try to get them out; I'm sure they know all the tricks... I have worked on some exhausts and they are not that bad but then I deal with a lot of prehard and full hard tool and stainless steels... I do agree though, quality tools make a huge difference!! B yup.. dats what i'm saying homie. but again, i'd still take it to the shop, i freeking hate exhaust systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 yup.. dats what i'm saying homie. but again, i'd still take it to the shop, i freeking hate exhaust systems. I installed my Thorleys and drove it to an exhaust shop with a cat, muffler and O2 sensor on the passenger seat and said "here, put it together, please..." I have no problem using the professionals either... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 I have no problem using the professionals either... B I've never tried to do any exhaust work, so I thought it would be a good learning experience. It's always fun to at least give this stuff a try, even without having the ideal tools at hand. Hopefully it won't come back to haunt me and I can at least attempt to repair the threads. After (if) I fail at that, I'll go to the pros. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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