junx Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Hello all - I'll be taking delivery of a silver 2003 SE today, and as you might expect I've been spending a bit of time reading through the excellent FAQ's and forum that you folks have assembled here. Its quite a nice collection of info. As such, I've come to the determination that I can run 265-70-16's on the stock wheels with little to no rubbing, which is nice. Has anyone found a solution to the fading trim between the factory flares and fenders? Mine are all yellow, and if there were a way to get them back to body color, that'd be great. I do have some questions about lifts. First: I understand that if I go with a 2 inch lift, I have to use manual hubs up front in order to keep from blowing out CV boots, and eventually CV Shafts. I would assume then that if I have 4WD engaged (Off road, snow, etc) then I need to keep an eye on my CV boots - as they would prematurely wear while 4WD was engaged? Second: I read that if you go with a 2 inch lift, you will experience "Clunking" or a topping out of the struts - is this with Every spring and strut combination? Thirdly : I'd like to know if anyone has used the air lift 1000 w/the auto leveling kit @ 4x4Parts.com - that looks pretty interesting. Thanks for reading, any and all responses are appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Congrats on your purchase!!! Your really going to love it. As far as lifts go, yes the 2in lift struts do top out, its really bad at first doing it over everything, but it gets better over time, you just learn to slow down over speed bumps and such. And the manual locking hubs are a good idea to have, but not nessicary right away. As far as the plastic goes, I use armor all, it seems to bring back the black of the handles and steps. Post up pics of your new ride when you get it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Hey Junx... congrats on your new baby! I have said it before, but since no one has yet suffer from a TC failure because of this you can take the following comment with a grain of salt and decide for yourself... The manual hubs.... I would not consider having them unless they would serve as a <fuse> for breakage instead of braking an half-shaft on the trail. I say this, because my investigation for those of us that have the atx14x TC could potentially damage it by lack of oiling. You can see my thread here : http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&...st&p=405931 My opinion, is that I would rather change a boot of halfshaft any day to a transfer case.... Anyway, for the half-shaft, I will soon have something to offer to the forum here that will take care of this problem.. for the clunking noise, you're stuck with it unless you put some limiting straps. This too will eventually create noise, but should be less than the strut toping itself. Have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junx Posted October 9, 2009 Author Share Posted October 9, 2009 My opinion, is that I would rather change a boot of halfshaft any day to a transfer case.... Anyway, for the half-shaft, I will soon have something to offer to the forum here that will take care of this problem..for the clunking noise, you're stuck with it unless you put some limiting straps. This too will eventually create noise, but should be less than the strut toping itself. Interesting stuff - depending on how soon soon is, I may delay any lift/tire purchase... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 The problem fleurys is talking about only applies to automatic transmission 2nd gen R50's, if you have a manual like me you are golden! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Also, make sure to loctice the power valve screws soon after you take delivery, that is the only real issue with these trucks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 So Fleurys, can you elaborate more on your idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junx Posted October 9, 2009 Author Share Posted October 9, 2009 (edited) Also, make sure to loctice the power valve screws soon after you take delivery, that is the only real issue with these trucks... Is that job covered under a recall? Edited October 9, 2009 by junx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Is that job covered under a recall? I don't think so or it would be a headline on the forum...i think nissan is just going to ignore the problem... It is not a hard job to do, there is a really good how to by Bowtied floating around, i think it is stickied in this forum... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 So Fleurys, can you elaborate more on your idea? in a few words I would say : differential drop brackets and thermoplastic half-shaft boots. I should be done this winter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 in a few words I would say : differential drop brackets and thermoplastic half-shaft boots. I should be done this winter... The only thing I associate diff drop brackets with is a lift, and idk wtf thermoplastic is LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaughtLikeFire Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 The problem fleurys is talking about only applies to automatic transmission 2nd gen R50's, if you have a manual like me you are golden! you mean manual transfer case, not transmission right (pretty sure that's what you meant)? Models with the All-Mode 4WD have the atx14x that doesn't play well with manual locking hubs. LE models and QX4s have the All-Mode standard and I think it was an option on 2003-2004 SE models. Junx, if you have a manual-shifting transfer case (not a push-button 4WD), you're fine with manual hubs. Although they're not as popular, I'd recommend purchasing manual hubs from a late 1990s Nissan pickup. They run $200 a pair brand new from online Nissan parts dealers (check here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18653). I know that Warn hubs are a proven design, but I can't bring myself to pay $170+ for aluminum and pot metal construction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 I'm pretty sure only manual models 00-04 have the manual mode transfer case, whereas all automatics from that point on had the all model. In any case, I am referring to the all mode transfer case, not the manual transfer case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 (edited) I don't think so or it would be a headline on the forum...i think nissan is just going to ignore the problem... It is not a hard job to do, there is a really good how to by Bowtied floating around... Thanks for comment... The 3.5L VQ pathy power valve screw problem, as I am told, applies to automatic transmissions only, 5 speed transmission do not have this power valve system. If the manual trans rigs have swirl valves or not, I am not sure. The write up... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&...st&p=277553 There is or was a recall for Sentra's that had the same problem. Nissan won't help pathy owners unless you have a failure under waranty. Note failure often means catastrophic engine failure here. Don't wait on this. i think it is stickied in this forum... I don't think it is stickied? So I thought it was would help the OP to not have to search for it. Edited October 10, 2009 by BowTied Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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