CaughtLikeFire

I can say from experience that the OME coils do not have the rubber/plastic isolator on the coils. I'm 99% sure that the AC coils don't either. With the OME coils, the Nissan isolators will fit. I purchased new ones for the front coils since I wanted to assemble a 100% brand new unit off the truck and just swap strut assemblies. I probably could have purchased new ones for the rear coils since they're cheap too, but I just reused them. if you don't use an isolator/sleeve on the bottom coil, you might get some additional noise but it's not a crucial part. Given the cheap price of the isolators if you order online, I'd just get 4 new ones. if you're on a really tight budget, reuse the old ones. mine had 114k on them and were in great condition - they don't really wear out and mine stayed very pliable (no dry rot).

I know that the drivetrain is a little different on the WD Pathfinders, but my '93 SE would not go into 4 Lo - I physically could not get the lever to go all the way back. I'd get a little grind usually too. Turned out the problem was just some rusty shift lever linkage from all the salt on Pennsylvania roads. Cleaned and lubed it and it shifted perfectly. It just might be that simple. I think a damaged transfer case is unlikely on a 2001, given #1 the build quality and #2 the fact that so many R50s were used as grocery getters and were almost never run in 4WD.

I have OME HD front and Medium rear on my 2001 SE manual. It sits level (see this thread for OME pics: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24630&st=20). over time, the front end will sag just a little, but you should not get an extreme rake with the tail in the air.

do you really have that much rake? did your front end settle significantly or did the steel bumper bring the front end down some? I'm pretty much dead even front and rear lift but I have less than 1k miles on my suspension. from that angle it looks pretty darn good - they wouldn't work well for me but I like the look of 265/75 on an R50.

I replaced the factory mirror on my 2001 and it was the same part number as a '97 mirror I found at a parts yard. even though Nissan changed the center console trim in 2001 (black plastic instead of dark gray) the overhead console did not change - it's still gray for 2001. 98ChilkootTrail, sounds like you have the optional auto-dim mirror with compass and/or temp that mounts to the glass. In the US I think it was a dealer-installed option only but maybe some of the Canadian vehicles had it from the factory. post a picture of your overhead console and I should be able to tell you if it will fit - I'm thinking you might just have a plastic trim piece that pops in to cover the hole for the mirror mounting bracket.

Mobil 1 is a great all-purpose grease - it would be just fine for a drive shaft. I use either Amsoil Multi-purpose NLGI 2 or Mobil 1. the difference in synthetic vs. standard grease is pretty much the same as syn vs. regular motor oil . the syn grease should provide a little more protection from wear (reduced friction) and more resistance to heat but I wouldn't say that it's as crucial on a driveshaft, hub, or wheel bearing as it is inside a modern gas engine.

I'm not surprised that your engine was fine with a change to synthetic at 44k - I've changed to synthetic in some vehicles at 120k (miles) and they've been just fine. with a good synthetic oil, you should change the oil and filter at 5-7k (miles). If you're only driving 10 miles per day, you won't have to change your oil often at all. there's no way you need to spend $100 every 3 months.

nice lookin' Chevy I forgot that I did take one pic of my '01 right after the tire install. OME HD front, Medium rear, 245/75/16 Hankook Dynapro RF10s. ignore the mismatched paint . . . the Pathy doesn't look lifted, but it looks "right" to me. I want my SUV to be an actual "utility" vehicle, not a station wagon. the 75 profile fills out the wheel wells a little more and gives the wheel the right proportions to match the body of the vehicle.

it hasn't happened with my Pathfinder but with other vehicles - if the brake fluid is a touch low, the brake light comes on when the car is cold (1st thing in the morning). brake performance is not affected. if you're concerned about your parking brake being too loose, follow the procedure here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460197&postid=5191362

Chevy wheels are usually hub centric instead of lug centric like the Pathfinder. For any wheel, make sure that the specs don't say "hub centric." pathfinder bolt pattern is 6x5.5 (139.7mm) . . . I was pretty sure that the 1/4 ton Chevy pickups still use that pattern but I could be wrong . . . . The Cragar Soft 8 you linked to is available in 15x8 and 6x5.5 bolt pattern to fit Nissans. I don't know if they clear the calipers on the 2000-2004 R50s though. 16x8 would for sure. Those wheels look good but are really heavy (mostly b/c of steel construction vs aluminum). IIRC, factory backspacing is ~5" on the 16x7 R50 wheels (not 100% sure). by the way, my buddy has a 2500HD Dmax, standard cab (mild mods - Banks tuner + full exhaust) and it's one of the fastest trucks I've ever driven - torque is just insane. love the Duramax

speaking of test fitting . . . Chevy trucks use the same bolt pattern as Nissan and I know that the 3/4 ton pickups have a pretty large hub bore . . . it wouldn't be safe to drive, but you could take a wheel off the Silverado (even the fullsize spare) and mount it on the Pathfinder just to see how it looks with 245/75/16.

I only have pics with 245/70s - not the 75s. guess I need to take some new pics once I get the bumper repainted Daddy Rim brought up a good point that I forgot - a lot of 245/75/16 tires are E load rated (10-ply equivalent). those are too heavy for the Pathfinder and when you combine the stiffer, heavier tire with the higher required pressures to get the optimum contact patch (probably 40-45 psi given the 80 psi max), you're in for one harsh ride.

no spacers required - I went with this size because I wanted to keep the stock wheels. The wide vs. narrow tire debate is as bad as Ford vs. Chevy so I won't get into it. I personally don't buy into the "get the widest tire that fits" mentality so that's why I stuck with 245. The 30.5" overall diameter actually made my speedometer more accurate too. as far as turning radius goes, I assumed most guys running 265/75 are using an 8" wide aftermarket rim.

you could also just go with a taller tire instead of going wider. I have a 2001 with OME springs and run 245/75/16 Hankook Dynapro RF10s. Great fit on the 7" wide factory rim and adds ground clearance over stock. My turning radius is great (by Nissan standards) and grip is never a problem - I'll never go to 265s on this vehicle.

agreed. there are a lot of 100k+ Pathfinders out there with original fluid that still have an ok functioning brake system (maybe not optimal) so it's not crucial to do it every 3 yrs/30k or whatever the Nissan recommendation is. given the low cost though, it's worth doing if the fluid isn't a nice clean amber anymore.

I burn almost zero oil @114k miles. Driving is mixed city/highway. The Amsoil helps with oil consumption (less likely to vaporize than just about any oil available here in the US) but my consumption was only a fraction of a quart every 7-8k to start with.

I use Amsoil synthetic with an Amsoil EA oil filter designed for extended drain intervals. I change my oil once per year or after 15,000 miles.

I bought the OME parts from 4x4parts.com. it'll take a few weeks since they place an order with ARB USA (the OME distributor) and have the parts drop shipped. you can order the KYB struts from 4x4parts too, but you can find them a little bit cheaper at other online stores or on Ebay.

there's an NPORA member that works at a Nissan parts dept in TX. He'll beat your dealer's price no question. check this thread for phone contact info: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18653 alternately, the OME springs do not provide a huge lift, do not put your CVs at really steep angles, and are not expensive. a complete set of OME springs, OME shocks, and KYB struts set me back less than $700 including shipping. if you're replacing the front springs, make sure you also replace the strut bearings and mounts (anything rubber or metal with rubber vulcanized to it). No point going through all the work to take the strut apart only to have it break down. If your struts have a lot of miles on them, replace them with KYB GR2 struts - you can get them for ~$150 per pair.

dealer wanted $31 for the bracket and it had to be ordered. Called up Rob (Alkorahil) and got it for $13 plus a few new screws for $1.50. Decided not to mess with the band clamp (not that it would be that difficult, but it would be more than $13 of my time/labor by the time I got out the angle grinder and cut part of the bracket).

wow, I just assumed that the dealership would want a ridiculous amount of money for that part - I'm going to try to rig up a stainless steel hose band clamp that I found from my turbo Volvo parts box but if that doesn't work, I won't be out too much $$.

looking for some suggestions on how to take care of my fuel filter problem. here's the deal: went to change my fuel filter yesterday (previous owner never changed it) and turns out the filter bracket is rusty mess. kinda surprising since the underside of the Pathfinder is virtually rust free otherwise. When I tried to remove the screw/bolt to undo the bracket, the bracket twisted under the torque of my baby 1/4" driver and started to crush the fuel filter. I'll need to cut off the bracket for sure. any suggestions on what to use as a new bracket? I'm thinking that I could use some type of hose clamp bolted down with a sheetmetal screw. The filter is light enough that I could probably even use a screw-down wire tie but I'd prefer something reusable. I did look for universal brackets online but almost all of them are show pieces - huge billet aluminum and chromed steel brackets for $40+

MD parts yards are ripoffs. Brandywine wants over $200 each for those wheels. Two of my wheels were curbed when I bought my 2001 so I bought replacements on Ebay for $50-$75 each on Ebay. Autogator.com (in Cali) should still have some in stock A or A- grade condition for just under $100 shipped (each).

those will bolt right up. Just make sure you use a tire calculator to determine the correct tire size since you're moving up to a 16" rim. Those are the best looking wheel for the R50 in my opinion. for whatever reason, I don't even notice the 6 bolt on 5 spoke thing.

80W90 GL5 in both differentials. I use Amsoil 75W90 Severe Gear synthetic and it's great. I did not need friction modifiers for the LSD if you decide to go that route. Transmission and transfer case get the same Nissan auto trans fluid. I use Amsoil synthetic in my transfer case but I have a manual trans so I can't comment personally on the shift quality. Friends with higher torque, larger trucks swear by the Amsoil though for auto transmissions. I'm not sure how much the Nissan fluid goes for these days but the Amsoil is very reasonable given it's 100k mile service life. This might help you out too: CAPACITIES: Engine, with filter..........4 quarts [1] Cooling System, Initial Fill..........11.1 quarts AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant Automatic Transmission, RE4R01A Initial Fill..........Not Specified Automatic Transmission, Total Fill 4 speed RE4R01A..........9 quarts Manual Transmission, 2WD..........5.1 pints Manual Transmission, 4WD..........10.6 pints Differential, Front..........3.9 pints Differential, Rear..........5.8 pints Transfer Case, Part-Time..........4.7 pints Transfer Case, All-Mode..........6.4 pints [1] After refill check oil level. TORQUES: Oil Drain Plug.....22-29 ft/lbs Manual Transmission Fill Plug 18-25 ft/lbs Drain Plug 18-25 ft/lbs Transfer Case Fill Plug 18-25 ft/lbs Drain Plug 18-25 ft/lbs