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Hi - Lift Jack Question


OfftourRoadie96
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I was considering getting a Hi-Lift Jack but on our R-50's, where would your lift points be? Does the Hi-Lift reach where the bottle jack would be placed??? I know I've seen those "Lift-Mates" that attach to your tire, but don't really want to carry around jack stands in the back either!

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Unfortunately, there are no suitable jacking locations on a stock R50 to use a Hi-Lift Jack. You must use the Lift-mate and a means by which to keep the wheel in the air after you remove the Lift-Mate. You theoretically could use an extended bottle jack or block of wood (or as you mentioned, jack stands).

 

If you have sliders or a bullbar, then you can use a hi-lift on those parts using other Hi-Lift adapters or chain, because they're strong enough. A hi-lift will damage the plastic bumper covers if it's placed against them.

 

Another alternative is the Exhaust Jack, though you still should use something solid to ensure the vehicle can't fall on you.

Edited by XPLORx4
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:yeahthat:

 

Depending on the sliders, you may still not have enough space. A number of folks - self included - can only use the Hi-Lift with the doors open to avoid gouging the door sheet metal.

 

Honestly, I was very disappointed in the Hi-Lift. I know that sounds heretical and there are a number of unconventional situations where it might be useful. But, for pure jacking purposes, I got a screw jack instead. Looks like a bottle jack but has a screw mechanism instead, allowing it to both jack up the vehicle AND act as a jackstand. Purely manual and as light as or lighter than a Hi-Lift. Much smaller than a Hi-lift. Makes my life easier. That said, I have a winch so I don't need the Hi-Lift quite as much as other folks in unconventional situations.

 

I have 2 screw jacks. You may be able to find them cheaper elsewhere. I think they're also called support jacks. Amazon had pretty good prices on them a while ago.

 

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...18901_200318901

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Thanks for the info.....what do you guys think of lifting from one or both of the front tow hooks? Would that be a good idea?

 

Not sure how you'd get the Hi-Lift in there. A screw jack can go anywhere you want, but probably best used at the factory jack points etc.

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Thanks for the info.....what do you guys think of lifting from one or both of the front tow hooks? Would that be a good idea?

 

 

That should work with this.... I have bought it...but never actually tried.... I have tried though, putting the hilift bumper lift on a 3/4 inch shackle.. and it's a perfect fit... so for me this is what I have and I am sure, when it comes to it, I'll be able to make something work....

 

http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/bumper-lift.html

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Interesting; hadn't thought about it. Where would you put that ? It says "for steel curved bumpers". The "Steel" beneath plastic on mine is really a weak crumple zone that I was concerned my twist/bend under the weight. I have a rear steel bumper but that's a whole different setup.

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Interesting; hadn't thought about it. Where would you put that ? It says "for steel curved bumpers". The "Steel" beneath plastic on mine is really a weak crumple zone that I was concerned my twist/bend under the weight. I have a rear steel bumper but that's a whole different setup.

 

 

well, I have a hitch at the back...there is one hole on each side of the hitch which would make for a good anchor, and for the front, I have the same bull bar as you, so a shackle there and the bumper lift shoud work ok... I'll try to take pictures this weekend... It will give me a good reason to finally try it... :-)

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Rear hitch use:

The problem with using a trailer hitch as a lifting point for a hi-lift, especially when using it for changing a flat tire, is that it will raise the entire rear of the truck, not the axle. The axle will droop, causing the jack to be extended towards the upper end of its range, and increasing instability. Plus, in this position, the jack may fall sideways if the front tires roll. In this case, wheel chocks are essential. You may even want to have someone keep their foot on the brake, so that the front tires can't roll.

 

Front tow hook use:

I have used my hi-lift with the front tow hooks before, but only after I got my bull bar. I can't say for sure if the stock bumper cover has enough clearance to do this without damage. Here's what you do:

 

Use a threaded chain connector (photo below) and 5-foot length of 1200-lb or stronger chain. This will only work on the 96-99 R50's, which have a metal front bumper.

 

• Lift the hi-lift tongue a little lower than even with the metal bumper, where it bolts to the frame. Position the jack so the tongue faces the bumper.

• Wrap a small piece of 1/2" plywood (2" x 4" is fine) or a 4" length of a 1x2 piece of hardwood in a towel or old t-shirt, then place it between the tip of the hi-lift tongue and the bumper. The towel/t-shirt is to prevent damage to the bumper and to help spread out the load when the hi-lift starts to lift the truck.

• Thread the chain through the tow hook and through the hole in the hi-lift jack tongue, twice, if possible. Secure the chain with the threaded connector. You may want to place a towel between the chain and the lower bumper cover.

• Now, start jacking. The hi-lift will tilt toward the bumper and press against it as you lift. But, because the wood is there, the tongue won't dig into the bumper, and the jack's post is not allowed to come close to the body, so you won't scratch anything. It is possible that as the chain becomes tight, it will press against the bumper cover and slightly deform it, so watch out for this.

 

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