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intermittant flooding problem


carwilef7
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Hi, everyone! Hope you can help me with this:

 

Bought my R50 truck in April and immediately had to replace the MAF sensor and a torn air duct at the throttle body. This fixed a bad stalling problem and it now runs flawlessly - when it starts, which is 99% of the time.

 

The trouble is a weird - and relatively rare - flooding condition. Most of the time, it will crank and start right up. Sometimes though, usually after a cold start and short trip and a shut down to go in a store for 5-10 minutes, I turn the key and it will crank but not start. Then, I can smell fuel (it really smells more like oil-based paint).

 

Sometimes when this happens, before i smell fuel, I can keep cranking for a few seconds and crack the throttle slightly, and it'll start. If that doesn't work, I can sometimes get it to go by re-cranking while holding the accelerator to the floor. Then there are the infuriating times when nothing works and I have to just wait 5-10 minutes and then it'll crank and start right up normally. It seems more likely to do this last bit on cool, damp nights.

 

It seems that it's the once a week or two weeks random key turn where something is causing a fuel dump or no spark for THAT one key turn only. Once it starts, it runs flawlessly. No SES light code or anything.

 

I've checked or replaced air filter, plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, all connections. Tested relays and primary and secondary resistance on the dist. Fuel pump and relays seem fine as well. Have tried injector cleaner in gas tank. It does seem to happen less often if I stick to 87 octane instead of midgrade 89. Timing is set to 16 degrees.

 

I just can't find a thing wrong, and when it happens I only have that 5-10 minute window to noodle with it - usually while I'm not dressed for the occasion.

 

Any clues, suggestions, or comments welcome! This is driving me nuts!

 

Thanks!

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Mine has issues starting sometimes when it's only been off for a few minutes after a partial warm up...but by problems I mean it takes 3-4 cranks to turn over instead of the usual 1 or 2... *shrugs* Try adding a water-remover to the fuel? Not sure what else to say :)

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Mine has issues starting sometimes when it's only been off for a few minutes after a partial warm up...but by problems I mean it takes 3-4 cranks to turn over instead of the usual 1 or 2... *shrugs* Try adding a water-remover to the fuel? Not sure what else to say :)

 

 

Thanks! I'm just finishing up a tank of midgrade 89 with a bottle of super-duper Gumout that's supposed to take care of water, gunk, fairies and everything else. I went for a month or so with maybe one incident running 87, so I'm gonna fill up with that today or tomorrow and see if it goes away. Will let you know.

 

Dunno why I used midgrade last time - unless it was just force of habit from running it in my previous car.

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I would say 1 or more leaking injector(s)... If it does it more on short trip, I would think the injector still let go some fuel after it has been shut off....On a small amount of time it is off, the fuel will stay in the cylinders not having enough time to sip past the ring, therefore the problem of smell and flooding... On long stops, the fuel most probably has time to go down in the oil pan past the rings..

 

One easy way on confirming this, is on the next oil change, drain you oil in a transparent container. If there is fuel in there you should be able to see it as it should form his own layer (on top or bottom) of the oil after it has sit a while... if you want , you could bypass this and go ahead with a leak test of the injectors...

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I would say 1 or more leaking injector(s)... If it does it more on short trip, I would think the injector still let go some fuel after it has been shut off....On a small amount of time it is off, the fuel will stay in the cylinders not having enough time to sip past the ring, therefore the problem of smell and flooding... On long stops, the fuel most probably has time to go down in the oil pan past the rings..

 

One easy way on confirming this, is on the next oil change, drain you oil in a transparent container. If there is fuel in there you should be able to see it as it should form his own layer (on top or bottom) of the oil after it has sit a while... if you want , you could bypass this and go ahead with a leak test of the injectors...

 

 

That makes sense. Have an oil change due in a couple hundred miles, so I'll look for that.

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