ascdesigns Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 I'm thinking about replacing the ball-joints on the front control arms. I did a search, but couldn't find a specific answer as to whether I'd need to pull back the CV axle. It 'appears' to have plenty of room to shove a pickle fork in there and disengage the balljoint from the hub. I understand this method will tear the balljoint boot, but if I'm replacing it I'm not worried about that. (and there's plenty of clearance between the balljoint and the outer CV boot.) The three bolts attaching the balljoint to the control arm are easily accessible so I'm not worried about them. Will someone please comment on the replacement procedure of these balljoints? Thanks! Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 When I changed the ball joints on my fathers r50 there was no way that sucker was coming out unless I moved the CV back. Getting that dust cap off was a PITA too. And you have to get a new one when you take the old one off. That is what the FSM says, anyhow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 When I changed the ball joints on my fathers r50 there was no way that sucker was coming out unless I moved the CV back. Getting that dust cap off was a PITA too. And you have to get a new one when you take the old one off. That is what the FSM says, anyhow. No need to replace the dust cap. Just be careful not to mangle it when removing it. There's an o-ring in there to seal it back up. Worst case, you could put some sealant on there if you're concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascdesigns Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 Thanks everyone. I guess I'll have to pull the CV eh? Bummer - it looked like it would angle out of the hub, especially if I unbolted the 3 bolts first. - Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 That spindle leaves no room for the ball joint to come out any way other than perfectly straight up. A neat way of releasing the ball joint is to use 2 hammers and rap the spindle from both sides together at the same time. The pressure you exert on the spindle leaves it passing that same pressure to the weakest part, the ball joint, so the joint will pop right up after a few well times strong raps! This way also works if you are planning to re-use a ball joint, as those d*** seperators always destroy something! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascdesigns Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 Hey - sorry to beat this one to death, but I'm one of those folks that like to "measure twice, cut once" Hopefully this will be my last question before I start "cutting" (not literally of course): Do you need to fully slide the CV out of the hub? or just slide it back far enough to clear the wide CV flange? In other words, is there enough room to pull the balljoint up/out if you pull the CV back, say about 3" or so? Thanks again for making my experience with my new (old) Pathy an enjoyable one! - Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 (edited) Hey - sorry to beat this one to death, but I'm one of those folks that like to "measure twice, cut once" Hopefully this will be my last question before I start "cutting" (not literally of course): Do you need to fully slide the CV out of the hub? or just slide it back far enough to clear the wide CV flange? In other words, is there enough room to pull the balljoint up/out if you pull the CV back, say about 3" or so? Thanks again for making my experience with my new (old) Pathy an enjoyable one! - Al You do not have to fully remove it... Mine was done exactly like that.... used a "fork" bar to remove the old one while the cv was slided. 30 minutes per side this way if you have a lift and a buddy to keep the cv slided and the hub assembly straight while you pry out the balljoint. Happy wrenching Edited July 31, 2009 by fleurys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascdesigns Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 Thanks fleurys! - Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascdesigns Posted August 1, 2009 Author Share Posted August 1, 2009 (edited) Woohoo!!! Successful balljoint replacements! The front end is absolutely quiet now! Simply retracting the CV axle from the hub was the way to go. And using a rented balljoint separator, a nice non-violent way to pop it out. One-person job, about 45 min per side. Thanks to everyone here who helped me out! - Al Edited August 1, 2009 by ascdesigns Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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