Stripped torsion bar anchor

[Balmer]

The torsion bar anchor on my LCA stripped out a couple of weeks ago and I need to replace it. Has anyone else had this issue?

 

I've removed the torsion bar from the LCA anchor and this afternoon I'm going to try to remove the anchor from the LCA (three bolts n' nuts - not captive nuts either). I'm not sure that I'll be able to get new bolts through the LCA if one or more of them should break - there seems to be very little clearance between the LCA and the crossmember to which it is mounted. Do I need to remove the LCA in this case?

 

Also I noticed that the splines of the torsion bar were only engaed about 40% of the way into the anchor (about 3/8" of a possible 1" or so). Is this normal??? It sems to me that the splines should be almost entirely engaged with just a bit of play for expansion and shrinkage as well as enevitable fore and aft movement within the chasis. Should I plate the LCA behind the anchor to bring the anchor back another 1/4"-3/8" to allow more engagement?

 

Any input is appreciated on this one...I'm doing a SAS over this winter so the less time, effort and $$$ into the damn IFS, the better!

[MY1PATH]

If you need to change the Anchor bolts you will need to remove the LCA's unless you cut them out and put the new ones in backwards.

 

If you do take the LCA's out be sure to switch the front axle bolts so the heads are facing foward(if they aren't already) that way you won't have to pull the LCA's again if you ever have to pull the front axle (req for diff change and engine change).

 

Also note the threads sticking out the backside when you do either my axle bolts had to be cut by 8mm to clear the LCA and I'm sure new anchor bolts if put in backwards will have to be pretty short to clear the axle.

 

T-bar very little play in the anchor side, It should be in far enough that only about 1/8" of the splines are showing before they taper out. About 1 degree of deflection will cause it to bind and the installer must have thought it was all the way in. The ajuster side has more free play and should have a snap ring in the 2nd groove aft to keep everything in place. If it was in the 1st groove(made for the dust boot) or not there at all I can see how the t-bar would not be all the way in the anchor. lastly the 3d grove should rest with the back side of the crosmember inside it.

[Balmer]

Thanks for the response! I wound up having to pull BOTH T-Bars AND the cross-member to which they are mounted as the adjusters are SERIOUSLY SIEZED on and will not come off! So now I need to replace the whole deal as a unit...including the 1 new LCA anchor.

The passenger side T-bar was engaged with about 1/8" of spline showing, just as you said it should be. The grooves in BOTH adjusters were in the correct positions and the C-clip was installed, in the corect position, on both adjusters. Seems weird to me that the drivers side could have been backed out so far given that all the reference points lined up?

I guess I'll just be very aware of the spline depth when replacing the bars and if there's a descrepancy I'll make up some kind of spacer that brings the anchor aft about 3/8" and install the bolts reversed as you suggested. It's only a few more months 'till it's off the road for SASing anyhow!

[Astroc2002]

The torsion bar anchor on my LCA stripped out a couple of weeks ago and I need to replace it. Has anyone else had this issue?

 

I've removed the torsion bar from the LCA anchor and this afternoon I'm going to try to remove the anchor from the LCA (three bolts n' nuts - not captive nuts either). I'm not sure that I'll be able to get new bolts through the LCA if one or more of them should break - there seems to be very little clearance between the LCA and the crossmember to which it is mounted. Do I need to remove the LCA in this case?

 

Also I noticed that the splines of the torsion bar were only engaed about 40% of the way into the anchor (about 3/8" of a possible 1" or so). Is this normal??? It sems to me that the splines should be almost entirely engaged with just a bit of play for expansion and shrinkage as well as enevitable fore and aft movement within the chasis. Should I plate the LCA behind the anchor to bring the anchor back another 1/4"-3/8" to allow more engagement?

 

Any input is appreciated on this one...I'm doing a SAS over this winter so the less time, effort and $$$ into the damn IFS, the better!

 

 

Now from what I was told mine stripped and left only a couple of threads on one of the torsion bars, so your not alone on this one.

[GrimGreg]

I saw one on a Hardbody do that once, right side. Only the first 1/2" of splines were gone, so not sure if it slipped then stripped, or if it hadn't been fully installed.

[Balmer]

FINALLY picked up a torsion bar and cross member set up the other day, one of the adjusters came off easily the other is soaking in deep creep at the moment. I'm going to attempt to strip the set up down and clean, paint and intall it tonight. Back to crummy IFS for now!