Tungsten Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 Well my brake pads wore out entirely on the rear wheels so I went and got a set at Pepboys for like $20. Then I attempted to install them so I jacked up the truck and took off the rear wheels. I know that the calipers are supposed to swing up but they are locked down with a bolt. So I started to remove the bolt on the right side first since this side was really bad. However no matter what I did I could not get the bolt loose, I tried hammering on it and dousing it in penetrating oil everywhere. So I ended up snapping the bolt off... When I tried the other side and the bolt came right out without any problems. Does this mean I need a new caliper on the right side now? How much does the dealer sell them for, anyone know? I would rather replace the caliper anyway because its been acting funny lately. This is probably going to be my last repair before I get a new car. Anyone want a 91 some later this year or so? It runs fine and has been well maintenanced. $300 or make an offer and hey maybe Ill just give it away. It still needs a tranny cooler but I just don't have the time to do this (which is the reason I'm offering it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 remove the snapped bolt and get a new one....where are you located... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 2x In more detail; drill a 1/8 hole completly thru the bolt if you can(if more than 3/8" of the bolt is left don't bother you'll risk breaking the bit in the bolt) then get an ez out and drill it up to 3/16 or larger but deep enough for the ez out to grab good. the 1/8" thru hole is to let the metal contract some under the stress of being removed from its current seized condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 ok I will try to drill it thanks for the tips any idea where i can find a new bolt like this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 (edited) Take the one that came out easy to the store and match it up... If its not a straight bolt as in it has a tapered, steped or collared shank you may have to go to a specialty shop or even nissan. or try and take one from a JY pathy. Edited May 24, 2009 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 Take the one that came out easy to the store and match it up... If its not a straight bolt as in it has a tapered, steped or collared shank you may have to go to a specialty shop or even nissan. or try and take one from a JY pathy. I was thinking about the JY but there is no guarantee that it will come out and may brake off as well. I hope the dealer has these bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 I was thinking about the JY but there is no guarantee that it will come out and may brake off as well. I hope the dealer has these bolts. there is good and bad in a jy. I have seen prisinte vehicles with nothing stuck and ones so rusty the forkift went thru the frame instead of under it when placing it in the lot. AND everything in between. Yes there is no guarantee but there may still be a chance. Make sure to use brake grease or antiseize on the bolt to prevent a repeat incident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 (edited) It turns out that the actual bracket can be separated from the caliper without any problems, just slides right off. The stud was frozen in there good, even drilling into it did not do anything useful. So a new hole had to be drilled out and tapped... After spending an entire day trying to drill and tap, I think I may have got it now. Its a 1.25 thread 8mm in diameter, had to use a 6.8mm drill. Found my 8mm bolt in the steering section of the auto parts store! lol The brake pads wore off completely to the steel and ate up the rotors. Ordered new brembo rotors on Amazon (brembo rotors all around now ), everything is going back together as soon as they get here. While I'm at it, my handbrake doesn't appear to be working yet the mini drum shoes are fine... Could it have seized? Edited July 25, 2009 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share Posted June 15, 2009 need help again rotors and pads finally here now i have no clue how to put the pads in there is a metal tab on two of them in a set does the pad with the metal tab go on the inside or on the outside?? my old pads fell apart so i have no idea what that tab is for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JUDGE Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 need help againrotors and pads finally here now i have no clue how to put the pads in there is a metal tab on two of them in a set does the pad with the metal tab go on the inside or on the outside?? my old pads fell apart so i have no idea what that tab is for The tab rubs against the rotor when the pad is worn, it'll start to squeal as a warning to change the pads. The tab goes on the inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share Posted June 15, 2009 ahh thanks that one left me clueless, never seen it done this way before also the damn piston nearly came out of the caliper, is it safe to force it back in or do i need to open the bleeder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JUDGE Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 No need to open the bleeder, take off the reservoir lid and push the piston back with a c-clamp or channel locks. Just make sure there's enough space in the reservoir to allow some fluid to come up without over flowing. HTH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 the square hole in the back center of the caliper is called the "screwdriver hole" using the old pad to protect the piston you can stick a screwdriver thru the hole and lever the piston in. If you think it sounds un-professional Thats actally out of a service manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted June 16, 2009 Author Share Posted June 16, 2009 The tab rubs against the rotor when the pad is worn, it'll start to squeal as a warning to change the pads. The tab goes on the inside. On the inside you mean on bottom of the rotor? From what I have seen the wear indicators are usually on the top of the rotor where you can see them but this can be a special case and I would just like to make sure. the square hole in the back center of the caliper is called the "screwdriver hole" using the old pad to protect the piston you can stick a screwdriver thru the hole and lever the piston in. If you think it sounds un-professional Thats actally out of a service manual. No need for a C-Clamp? Nice... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted June 16, 2009 Author Share Posted June 16, 2009 alright both sides are done the bolt i got is incorrect, its too long and locks the rotor in place napa has the right one, part number is 82828 for those interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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