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Fix for EGR function code?


yamahawg
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Ok...i got 2 codes when i checked mine...32 EGR Function.

33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.

Can someone help out with the solution for #32? I'm assuming #33 means time to get a new O2 sensor. I've had my truck for about a month now. The issue that shows up from time to time is loss of power, but it comes and goes. Sometimes I can go a few days with it not showing up, then out of no where it shows up when in 4th or 5th gear and feels like it's getting choked hehe!

 

If this has already been covered somewhere, sorry....haven't ran across it yet if so. Thanks!

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I think someone just posted they changed their O2 and it fixed it. I had the EGR function on my 95 and when i just pulled the engine i noticed the hose that goes from the top diaphram to the lower one had broken in half so you may want to check that...my SES light would come on for like a day and go away for a length of time and then come back and go away like you described so you may want to check that little hose...it was easy to swap out I just popped the 2 screws out of the top diaphram (think they were #8s) and pulled the 2 sections of hose off of each one and slid a new piece on

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Yep, first do a physical inspection of the valve and all the plumbing. If you have a repair manual, the testing procedure should be in there, if not, I can look it up later...

 

B

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Check your BPT valve operation. If its not working correctly(leaking), they make a constant ticking noise. Usually I find the rubber pressure hose under it has split open and is leaking. This will prevent the EGR valve itself from operating.

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Check your BPT valve operation. If its not working correctly(leaking), they make a constant ticking noise. Usually I find the rubber pressure hose under it has split open and is leaking. This will prevent the EGR valve itself from operating.

 

is that the one on top? if so then yea thats where mine split

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is that the one on top? if so then yea thats where mine split

 

Sometimes it could be as simple as a vacuum problem, or even the Valve went bad. Let me know if you need one, I got an extra one laying around now. To test a valve itself, get a vacuum pump and hook it to the valve, if you apply vacuum and it works then it is something else. I found out that the way the system works on these is the pressure from the EGR tube to the valve is pushed into a smaller pipe leading to the VVT valve, which tells the sensor when to activate the vacuum to get the EGR to open. If that tube is bad, broken, or clogged, that can happen. I would try taking that little tube off, 12mm line wrench, and blow through it, if you can move to the next thing, the VVT valve. I can't remember what the procedure is for that, but i can look it up for you if you need me to. Let me know if any of this works.

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I'll see if my issue is gone once I get it all back together and driving...mine has been doing it for like 2 years now...but my entire trip back west with her it didnt come on but once and I think 2 more times in the few months i drove her here...guess we'll see

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Ok, thanks all for the advice! The CEL stays on at the moment, but the loss of power comes around pretty much whenever it feels like it lol! It's been about 2 or 3 days now since it has acted up. Gonna replace the O2 sensor and go from there. Thanks again!

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is that the one on top? if so then yea thats where mine split

Yep, it has two vacuum hoses attached on top and one on the bottom. The bottom hose is connected to a hard line that supplies pressure from the exhaust. That small hose is a very common problem on most nissans that use a EGR system. See that lots of times. That hard line, as explained above, does plug with carbon after a while and may need to be cleaned. The BPT(Back Pressure Transducer) valve is fairly easy to test. Apply pressure to bottom of valve, them apply vacuum to one side of the valve on top and as you apply and remove pressure, you should have or not have vacuum. Even the EGR valve itself is easy to test. The quick way is to push lightly on the diaphram on the bottom of the EGR valve. When the engine is running, you will feel it misfire. Let go and it will idle normally again. I have seen the system not work correctly if the exhaust systems has been modified and the backpressure has been reduced(removal of the catalyst or or muffler, or even too large of exhaust pipe), but thats onlky been a few.

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If the engine is running you should be able to push in the diaphram on the bottom of the EGR valve right? Or no?

 

Mine is solid as a rock, but it moves fine when the engine is off...

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If the engine is running you should be able to push in the diaphram on the bottom of the EGR valve right? Or no?

 

Mine is solid as a rock, but it moves fine when the engine is off...

Yes, you should be able to push on it and make the engine stumble. It wont be really easy to push in, but not hard either. If yours is that hard, disconnect the vacuum hose, then try and push on it. Its possilbe you have the valve sticking inside. You can remove it and try and cleaning it, but it may not help.

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Yes, you should be able to push on it and make the engine stumble. It wont be really easy to push in, but not hard either. If yours is that hard, disconnect the vacuum hose, then try and push on it. Its possilbe you have the valve sticking inside. You can remove it and try and cleaning it, but it may not help.

 

Yeah I clamped down on that thing with everything I had and it would not budge. And I'm a strong guy...

 

I'll take the vacuum line off somehow, it seems pretty brittle and I don't want to break it off.

I can't believe a new EGR valve lists for $134 at the local auto parts store.

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