KLL Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 (edited) Dear friends, I am planning to move my 15" stock wheels 1 inch out. I am planning to use aluminum metal and plasma cutter. Any suggestions before start? any drawings and dimensions? Edited February 20, 2009 by KLL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 I'd say you'd be better off just getting some wheels with a different offset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fukinitupagain Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 I'd say you'd be better off just getting some wheels with a different offset. I've got to agree with tek here. Do you have aftermarket or stock rims? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 I've got to agree with tek here. Do you have aftermarket or stock rims? I think he's got the stock 15" 6-spoke aluminum* wheels. *Reason enough to not use spacers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 Why would that matter on an aluminum wheel? I used 1" wheel adapters I got off ebay that were for a 90's Yota, all you need is the proper lug nuts for the Yota thread and your good...I had great results with them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fukinitupagain Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 In any event, just get some aftermarket rims with like 3.75" of backspacing & you'd be set. Thats a lot easier than making wheel spacers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 Ok, so I suck....I have used 1.5" spacers for years on my R50. I used them on... **Old Skool Neeper Synchro's 16" **Nismo/Rays/Volk TE37x 16" **OEM 02 Nissan Double Tri-stars 16" I used them to get the large tires away from the strut tower spring perch, with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 Why would that matter on an aluminum wheel? I used 1" wheel adapters I got off ebay that were for a 90's Yota, all you need is the proper lug nuts for the Yota thread and your good...I had great results with them... Sorry I should have clarified my post. When I was wheel shopping, I was told not to use aluminum spacers with aluminum wheels because of potential warpage due to aluminum's malleability. That's why I chose to go with offset aluminum wheels. I was just going on the advice given to me. Ok, so I suck....I have used 1.5" spacers for years on my R50.I used them on... **Old Skool Neeper Synchro's 16" **Nismo/Rays/Volk TE37x 16" **OEM 02 Nissan Double Tri-stars 16" I used them to get the large tires away from the strut tower spring perch, with no problems. I wouldn't say it's a matter of you sucking; if the results were good then that's all that should matter. BTW, got any pics of your rig with the TE37X's? Those are sick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetmugg Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 Dear friends, I am planning to move my 15" stock wheels 1 inch out. I am planning to use aluminum metal and plasma cutter. Any suggestions before start? any drawings and dimensions? How are you planning to make 1" spacers with aluminum plate and a plasma cutter? Are you going to put longer studs on your truck at all 4 corners? Or were you planning to make a set of spacers with 2 bolt patterns - one to bolt to the hub, and then studs pressed into the spacers to attach the wheels? In either case, I believe you need to use more sophiticated tooling than a plasma cutter. This type of work calls for a lathe and a milling machine (or a good drill press in place of the milling machine). You might want to look into a set of commercially available spacers as well. I know the lure of doing it yourself is strong (I have the same affliction), but sometimes you are better off to buy than to build. That's my 2 cents. SteveM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLL Posted February 21, 2009 Author Share Posted February 21, 2009 (edited) I love this forum . Thanks for responses. As i mentioned i am using stock wheels with 265/70/15 wheels with At tires. What distracts my eye most is the fender flares and wheels. When i look at the front of car wheels are really looking bad, flares makes tires seems tighter than they are. Ofcourse wider track is better for handling. I tried to find some new 15 wheels, but as a trends of street SUVs here, as seen on every part of modern world, no body is dealing with 15" wheels anymore! it is even hard to find 16" with more offset. Let me clarify situation. Where i work is in an industrial region. You can build anything mechanical you imagine here. There are several shops with large lathes to process anykinds of metal. I am planning to cut aluminum, and to use lathe to open cavities. By the way, aluminum is cheap but costly part is processing. I found a guy in another city who builds steel or aluminum flanges for Jeep products. I am sure he can build for nissan. I will give him a call. So let me ask if he use steel or aluminum; what can be the difference? I am not driving under heavy ofroad conditions, no rocks. Only rough terrain and mud. any experience with flanges about 1-1.5 inches? Actually, i do not want to change original studs, and invest on another pattern of holes and new studs on flange. And again, about dimensions, do you have any preset drawings for stock wheels, or at least dimension? Outside is cold, everywhere is snow, i am lazy to remove one and measure with a caliper Thanks in advance. Edited February 21, 2009 by KLL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLL Posted February 21, 2009 Author Share Posted February 21, 2009 bytheway.. what is the offset value of a stock 15" R50 alloy wheel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 I love this forum . Thanks for responses.As i mentioned i am using stock wheels with 265/70/15 wheels with At tires. What distracts my eye most is the fender flares and wheels. When i look at the front of car wheels are really looking bad, flares makes tires seems tighter than they are. Ofcourse wider track is better for handling. EXACTLY...this is the same reason why I purchased mine...I got mine for $135 on ebay, all I did was specifiy that I wanted a different set of open ended nuts to bolt up to the truck and he sent all the right stuff...just to give you an idea of the prices... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLL Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 EXACTLY...this is the same reason why I purchased mine...I got mine for $135 on ebay, all I did was specifiy that I wanted a different set of open ended nuts to bolt up to the truck and he sent all the right stuff...just to give you an idea of the prices... this figure is very close to what he asks for custom built ones. thank you. may be it is good idea to buy ready to install ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Just as another note, I believe mine are 1.5" (couldn't tell you til I get home this weekend). I put a tape measure next to the sidewall and used a yardstick from the fender flare down to the tape measure to see what pushed it all the way out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLL Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 (edited) i designed one for trial. i removed one of front wheels and checked inner part of wheel. it says 7/98 so 7cm is the length between two studs and 98 is the hub diameter. stud lenght is 2.2 centimeters so there is a question. is half of this length thick enough to hold spacer in its place? Edited February 23, 2009 by KLL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLL Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share Posted February 24, 2009 (edited) here is final design according to new studs i can find and new nuts for each stock lugs shown inside spacer. gray part is the drum brake surface. thickness shown here is almost 1 inch. 2.5 cm. studs will go into small diameter holes. Edited February 24, 2009 by KLL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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