bosse Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 (edited) Hello everyone, as I said in my introduction I am from Sweden so I'm sorry for my english, hope you understand me anyway Can start to say that i _have_ used the search-function, and found a few with the same problem (not on this motor) but I have some more questions, hope you dont mind that I start a new thread. I just bought a Pathfinder -88 2.4 (45000miles(?), 28000 swedish miles), had it a few month and on idling its oscillates, pretty annoying in crossings and so on, everyone looks at me like I'm fskced up and cant drive a car lol When cold its at 2000rpm, then it goes down to 800-900, and then jumps between that and 1500-1800, the cars works perfectly fine when driving, but when I am shifting gear and press the clutch, it only goes down to 2000rpm, if I hold it for a while it goes down to 800-900 and starts to jump again untill I release the clutch. Also, its a strange sound from the exaust, sorta.. poffing, or something? (only when idling) I tried to put some cleaningfluid (dont remember the name, it's for cleaning the whole system) in the tank but that did not help. I've checked for vacuumleeks but did'nt found any, the airfilter is fresh and the ignitionparts are new (rotor arm, rotor, spark plugs and so on, also fuelfilter), How does the coldstart/automatic choke(direct translated from swedish) work, can that be the problem? I have seen some tips of the MAF, where do I find that and what does it do? I guess the TPS is like in a snowmobile, throttle position sensor? Is the TPS positioned against the firewall, in back of the.. cant find the world? Can it have to do anything with that? It's like a ratnest under the airfilter, cables and stuff goes here and there, hard to troubleshoot when I have never had this type of system in a car earlier (dont do much car-repars, often work with snomobiles but thats a whooole other thing) Another question I have, the timing chain, after this miles, is it in my interest to change it? I know in some cars you change them and in others the manufactors say it will last as long as the car lasts. This was a long post but I hope someone has the time to read it hoping to get help to fix this problem, I'm rather satisfied with the car overall and it will be perfect to have a trailer behind when the snow comes, a little bit better then my lowered Audi with a car<->ground measure around 1 dm had some problem with that up in the mountain last year, we where pretty stuck, hope that dont gonna happen now EDIT. Just wanna to apologize, just found a how to cleaning the MAF... I'm gonna read it through directly! Edited October 10, 2008 by bosse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Your English is better than some US citizens, so don't worry about it. Besides, my Sweedish is non-existent and I can only get myself in trouble in German. You have the Z24i, correct? Injected? I used to have a 84 D720 (king cab pickup) with the Z24 although I always believed it to be carburated. I had the same issue of the rising/falling idle and it was very annoying!! Funny thing is it only happened some times, more often when the climate temperature was warm it seemed. I never determined the exact cause, but was fairly certain it was sensor/wiring related. The TPS seems like a likely candidate so check all the wiring connectors first. Very few people here have the Z24 motor (I will ask for a section be made for it in the Garage) so help will be slow although many people may guess. Perhaps our member who was a Nissan mechanic has seen this symptom in a pick up truck before... I sold my pickup with 160,000 miles on it and the timing chain was loose. At idle you could hear it lash slightly and the timing would be unsteady, at running speed (especially under load) it ran perfect. The only time it gave me grief was when I had to get it smog certified. It would barely pass at idle and pass easily at high idle. It is rare for the timing chain to jump in these motors but if you plan to keep it you may want to replace it or at least the chain tensioner which may be the worn part allowing play in the chain. Now that I think about it, perhaps the loose timing chain is affecting the timing, telling a sensor to increase idle/advance timing to a point where everything is where it belongs but is reving high so then it drops the RPM??? I'm not sore that helped other than saying, yes I have had that problem also. Are you sure your exhaust plugs are firing? I had a distributor cap lose the outside electrode (no spark), and a solid state unit in the distributor fail ($280) that didn't fire the exhaust spark plugs. This may have been related to the idle surging issue... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosse Posted October 11, 2008 Author Share Posted October 11, 2008 (edited) Yes, the Z24i... You say that there arent many members with this motor, when folks talk about the 4-cylinder motor, is'nt this it? Hm, this exhaust plugs, what is that? The other owner said he had this problem for two year, but he just lived with it.. he had never trouble with the CO or something like that at the swedish motor vehicle inspection.. and he only used this car a few times at hunting season. I read some things about the MAF-sensor, so I'm going to clean it tomorrow and see if it helps.. also check the ECU for codes. Perhaps I can take it apart and take a sneak peak (?dont know where I got that from or dont even know what it means but it sounded good in my mouth lol?) at the timing chain and its tensioner as you said, the tensioner and idling wheels(?) cant be a bad thing to change, just in case.. and if the chain feels bad I'm changing that too of course. It feels like a jungle and that there can be a hundreds of problems, but I have promissed myself that I'm gonna figure this one out. Thank you for your information Precise1! 02:28, it's time for bed my friends, it's gonna be a tough day tomorrow! Edited October 11, 2008 by bosse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 You say that there arent many members with this motor, when folks talk about the 4-cylinder motor, is'nt this it? Yes, it is, but the percentage is very low compared to the VG30 or even the TD27. I'm not sure the Z24 or TD27 was ever distributed for Pathfinders(Terranos) in North America. Hm, this exhaust plugs, what is that? Spark plugs for the exhaust stroke, on the exhaust manifold side (left, standing in front of the hood). You have 8 spark plugs/8 distributor wires/2 coils, right? My Z24 did... also check the ECU for codes. Absolutely!! Perhaps I can take it apart and take a sneak peak (?dont know where I got that from or dont even know what it means but it sounded good in my mouth lol?) at the timing chain and its tensioner as you said, the tensioner and idling wheels(?) cant be a bad thing to change, just in case.. and if the chain feels bad I'm changing that too of course. I don't believe it is a sneak peak item. "Your pretty much have to pull the front of the engine off" to quote a trusted mechanic I had at the time and my memory of the drawings agrees. Not that it is extremely difficult, but by the time you get to the chain, you may as well have the parts ready to put on... 02:28, it's time for bed my friends, it's gonna be a tough day tomorrow! Good night. Don't worry, we will be here all week... Every week... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosse Posted October 11, 2008 Author Share Posted October 11, 2008 (edited) Feels good that you are still here, I went up to take a p*ss around 5 and I had to check you guys out, after that I could go back to sleep again Now to my problem, I have just ran the diagnostic test, and it showed one fault.. 5 reds and 5 greens, wich is 55 "No Malfunction", what does this mean? (its like, everything is working OK, isnt it?) Another thing, how does this test function, does it just send a value to say a sensor, and the sensor sends back another value, but the ECU isnt smart enough to read what that is? he just knows that he got a answer and then says everything is OK? Was wondering if I should take apart the MAF and clean it, but if there would be something wrong there, shouldnt the ECU tell me that? Or is it just if the MAF is totally fckt up, maybe with a wire off or something? Edited October 11, 2008 by bosse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 The test isn't really a test exactly. By running the diagnostics, your ECU is flashing out any stored codes it may have. So any malfunction it's stored. In your case, everything seems to be okay, as code 55 indicates no malfunctions (everything running okay, as you said). The ECU is constantly looking for values within an acceptable range, on all your sensors. It does this all the time, and works on your fuel mixture based upon those values. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosse Posted October 11, 2008 Author Share Posted October 11, 2008 Okay Simon! I had a thought if it is some machanical issues inside the carburator and the injectorpart is trying to compensate for this, dont know.. Anyway, I have cleaned the MAF but it is still the same. I'm going home now, it feels like I am living at work.. tonight me and my girlfriend is going to see Joe Labero, a famous magician, it's going to be nice with a little break from everything, and maybe finish the evening with a few beers Thank you for all your help so far, don't really know how to go on now.. I think I'm gonna check the exhaust plugs for sparks.. we'll see.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 Do you have a shop manual that includes the Z24i motor? That might be a good investment... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosse Posted October 12, 2008 Author Share Posted October 12, 2008 (edited) No shop manual directly but a do-it-self book with a complete teardown and builtup in it, has helped me alot.. now, my truck runs much better after cleaning the MAF sensor, it's jumping around 100 rpms now, and thats a hugh difference... that's something I can live with much better than 800-2000.. and when I clutch its falling like an apple from a tree, not going up like it did before.. so thousands of thanks to you! I'm gonna do a little service now, change all oils and so on, what type of oil do you guys use in the gearbox? What is appropriate to do in a.. middle service, oils, spark plugs, filters, rotor, grease in all nipples (anyone got a discription where all the nipples are?), what more can I do to help the truck live a long and happy life? Also, I've read the thread of the gearboxes.. my gearbox (I think) makes a strange burring noice on the third gear (and only in the third gear) between 1500-1800 rpm, is that something that I'm gonna bother trying to fix? It sounds like a bearing that runs dry but it's strange that its just in those rpm and on third gear.. I was quite worried when I read the other thread... Edited October 12, 2008 by bosse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 GREAT!!! I'm glad it was so easy of a fix!! For the gearbox, GL4 75W90. Use only GL-4, NOT GL-5! Perhaps the sound you hear is just from some sort of vibration caused only by running in that range? Regardless, there have been people who developed tranny whine which didn't get any worse after they filled the tranny with the 'extra' gear oil as per the thread you read. Tune ups, well, when I first buy a truck, I change everything. Brake fluid, power steering, transfer case, tranny and differentials just so I know when it was done and know there is good lubrication. Spark plugs generally last a while as do the wires and I usually change them before and emmisions test is due, so perhaps every 4 years for me (30,000 miles). A basic tune up may be dizzy cap, rotor, oil and air filter and chassis lube. Not to be a mart ass, but where to find the zerk fittings for the chassis lube? Look... Drive shafts, front end, U joints... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosse Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 Thank you Precise1.. I'm blind you smart ass ehum, just kidding .. yeah, I'm gonna check for thoose later when I got the time.. pretty much to do at work now. Damn, the snow is starting to fall soon, my winter tires looks like pingpong-balls, I want my summers! of course, I can always try those screw dubs we got in the store Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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