fritz007 Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 I am putting new rotors on my 02 Pathy and was wondering what i would have to deal with when i remove the auto locking hubs cuz it looks like i have to take off all that stuff to get the old rotor off any ideas? THANX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 I am putting new rotors on my 02 Pathy and was wondering what i would have to deal with when i remove the auto locking hubs cuz it looks like i have to take off all that stuff to get the old rotor off any ideas? THANX Yes, that's right you will have to remove the hubs. However, they are full-time drive flanges, not auto-locking hubs. You basically pull off the center hub cap, remove the snap-ring, remove the bolts holding the drive flange on and remove the drive flange. Next, you remove the outer bearing lockring and nut, then slide the outer bearing and entire hub assembly off the spindle. Be careful not to drop the outer bearing onto a dirty surface as you slide it off. The rotor is bolted to the hub assembly with 6 bolts. When you've got the old rotor off, and the new rotor attached to the hub, you just put everything back together in the reverse order. Also: • you should consider repacking the bearings since you've got them out already. • you need to apply a certain amount of torque to the outer bearing nut. • be sure to attach the rotor to the hub with the right amount of torque. • be sure not to overtighten the bolts securing the drive flange to the outer hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz007 Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 thanx for the help most of that is what i thought i just was not sure if i would run into anything surprising in there cuz of the electronic 4wd or anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissan3 Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Just too add to thiss, Im gonna be replacing my rotors soon as well and I am wondering how some of you got the lock nut off. Do i need a special tool or can i get away with using a punch and hammer? the only thing that worries me about that is how am i gonna be able to torque it to specs when putting the bearings back in. Also i went to canadian tire and they have a special lock nut tool for the 96 4runner and tacoma, anyone know if that'll work?? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Nope, that tool won't work. Different size. I typically just tighten it back up with screwdriver and a hammer. You can feel when it gets too tight. You should be able to spin the wheel pretty freely, but not have any play in the bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Nope, that tool won't work. Different size. I typically just tighten it back up with screwdriver and a hammer. You can feel when it gets too tight. You should be able to spin the wheel pretty freely, but not have any play in the bearings. X2. Punch and hammer has always worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissan3 Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 sweet thanks for the help... i'll give the punch and hammer a try hopefully i dont mess anything up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 I bought the tool....it is pretty helpful though I have heard you can buy a tool at a regular parts store and grind down 2 of the 4 ears to fit. A good reason to get the tool is to "seat" the bearings and seals. There are specs out there about torqing the lock nut first, spinning the wheel a few times, and then backing the nut off to "---" ft/lbs. ps. the tool was just over $80 from the Snap-on man! The Parts store tool ground down is like $30 + some time!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 I bought the tool....it is pretty helpful though I have heard you can buy a tool at a regular parts store and grind down 2 of the 4 ears to fit. A good reason to get the tool is to "seat" the bearings and seals. There are specs out there about torqing the lock nut first, spinning the wheel a few times, and then backing the nut off to "---" ft/lbs. ps. the tool was just over $80 from the Snap-on man! The Parts store tool ground down is like $30 + some time!!! snap-on is always expensive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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