lincoln locked r200a?

[keelhaul]

I am planning on swapping in 3rd members with 4.6 gears with an arb locker for the rear but as for the front I am not sure whether I want to put another $1000 into it. I am considering having the spider gears welded.

 

I have a 2002 chilkoot 5 speed with warn hubs, a 2" ac lift and 1" strut spacers. I usually only use 4 wheel drive at slow speeds offroad.

 

any opinions about handling characteristics or additional stress on parts, or any opinion at all would be greatly appreciated

 

Thanks

[XPLORx4]

You definitely do not want to weld the front diff, or you'll never be able to make tight turns again without unlocking the front hubs (even while off-road). It will also be nearly impossible to turn the front wheels left/right while you're stopped. Additionally, a welded front diff will put a lot of binding strain on the CV joints. You'd be better off welding the rear and putting an ARB in the front (but you'd sacrifice on-road handling).

Edited February 22, 2008 by XPLORx4

[keelhaul]

You definitely do not want to weld the front diff, or you'll never be able to make tight turns again without unlocking the front hubs (even while off-road). It will also be nearly impossible to turn the front wheels left/right while you're stopped. Additionally, a welded front diff will put a lot of binding strain on the CV joints. You'd be better off welding the rear and putting an ARB in the front (but you'd sacrifice on-road handling).

 

 

I never even considered that just turning the steering wheel while stopped would bind it up, but it makes sense. Does anyone have an arb in the front? I assume the same problems would occur with a front arb in locked position. how well do the arb lockers disengage if binded up?(do you have to stop and back up to disengage sometimes)? The air lockers on my peterbilt sometimes take a bit of rocking to get lockers disengaged.

[XPLORx4]

I never even considered that just turning the steering wheel while stopped would bind it up, but it makes sense. Does anyone have an arb in the front? I assume the same problems would occur with a front arb in locked position. how well do the arb lockers disengage if binded up?(do you have to stop and back up to disengage sometimes)? The air lockers on my peterbilt sometimes take a bit of rocking to get lockers disengaged.

 

I have a front ARB in my R50, and the front does bind up pretty tight when it's locked. I've noticed the steering is super heavy, and there's loads of understeer. Therefore, as a general rule, I only use the front locker when absolutely necessary, and only when traveling in a nearly straight line or when one front tire will definitely be airborne. The front ARB unlocks quite readily - as soon as the steering wheel is turned opposite even slightly - much more quickly than the rear ARB locker disengages.

 

And to be perfectly honest, IMO, if you feel you need a front locker, you really should drive a few miles off-road with just the rear locker. It's actually quite amazing how much additional capability it provides.

 

What type of wheeling do you do that necessitates dual lockers?

Edited February 22, 2008 by XPLORx4

[RWC5S2]

If you look into locking the front you will see that it is mainly reccommended for rock crawling only. Unless you want to start running really nasty trails I would not lock the front. The steering and C/V problems were already addressed. Having the rear end capable of being fully locked will solve virtually any off road driving problems you will encounter.

 

There is also the problem of the design of the vehicle. With all the cheesy plastic bumper junk on the R-50 you do not have enough ground clearance (departure and approach angle) to justify front lockers. Even a after market front bumper will require the same measurements to protect the PS lines and the radiator. My 2003 with the KMA front bumper and Skid Plate still hit bigger rocks. Now I slide over them or off to the side. I also put in the 2" lift, 1" strut spacer and all the skids from 4x4parts.com to protect the entire bottom. Also added rock sliders to complete the rig.

I had to have the rear bumper made by a local guy as no one sells them. I gained 9" of departure angle but still have the stock front bumper height.

 

If running with a fully lockable rear does not solve your trail problems you need to really re-think what you are wanting to do. I could have done a rear locker and saved a few bucks but hind sight is always 20-20.

[keelhaul]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll just stick with one locker in the rear. I don't plan on doing any rockcrawling and if the rear locker isn't enough I always have a winch.

Any advice on pulling the third members? The only thing I am not sure of concerns the rear axles. I know the bolts must be taken out from the bearing cage then some sort of slide hammer is used to pull out the axle, but on reassembly do you just tighten those bolts snug? Does sliding the axle out enough to remove third member result in having to screw around with the wheel bearings?

[tmorgan4]

Pulling the rear axle shafts are much easier than you're making it out to be. Once the wheel is removed, just undo the 4 bolts per side and the axle should slide out easily. Just pull it out a couple inches on each side and you don't even have to disconnect the parking break. No slide hammer is needed, and to reassemble the shafts just slide back in and the 4 bolts need to be tightened back up, preferably to factory torque specs.

[keelhaul]

Pulling the rear axle shafts are much easier than you're making it out to be. Once the wheel is removed, just undo the 4 bolts per side and the axle should slide out easily. Just pull it out a couple inches on each side and you don't even have to disconnect the parking break. No slide hammer is needed, and to reassemble the shafts just slide back in and the 4 bolts need to be tightened back up, preferably to factory torque specs.

 

 

 

Right on! Thanks. I pulled axleshafts off a toyota once that were pressed in and it took a forklift, a come-along, and a sledgehammer. i am happy to hear r50's should be easier to pull.