Black93inMA Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Hello....was great to find this forum/ I recently purchased a 1993 Pathfinder on Ebay for $650.00 with 153,000 miles on it..... It suffers from some rust issues... I plan on patching the frame as needed and applying POR-15 to open rust areas... I bought the truck to replace my Astro AWD..... Before I get it on the road I was going to replace timing belt, waterpump, all fluids and hoses...any other advice? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzy Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Hello....was great to find this forum/ I recently purchased a 1993 Pathfinder on Ebay for $650.00 with 153,000 miles on it.....It suffers from some rust issues... I plan on patching the frame as needed and applying POR-15 to open rust areas... I bought the truck to replace my Astro AWD..... Before I get it on the road I was going to replace timing belt, waterpump, all fluids and hoses...any other advice? Thanks! pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denisb Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 If it's an auto you should replace the tranny cooler, the OEM will most likely kill the tranny. The rear control arm bushings are also a common issue. The manifold studs are know to break. Obviously you already know about the rust But other than that they are pretty rock solid. Wow $650, if the mechanics work good that's a pretty good deal if the frame is salvagable. Welcome aboard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Welcome to the board! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark94XE Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 Welcome! Take a good look at your frame. Don't be scared, they usually look really bad, but with a welder and some 1/8" plate steel, they're pretty easy to fix! Have fun with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 welocme! and grats on your purchase! can't wait to see pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 If you want to see bad frame rot, look at these threads: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=13522&hl= http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12396&hl= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black93inMA Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 pics. pics are coming as soon as i get it home...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black93inMA Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 If it's an auto you should replace the tranny cooler, the OEM will most likely kill the tranny. The rear control arm bushings are also a common issue. The manifold studs are know to break. Obviously you already know about the rust But other than that they are pretty rock solid. Wow $650, if the mechanics work good that's a pretty good deal if the frame is salvagable. Welcome aboard! I have garage full of gbody/drag race parts. Have a tranny cooler all set to go into it. Was also gonna replace the water pump and timing belt first thing. Based on pics it looks in great shape, but I will post those for you as soon as I have it here, at home! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black93inMA Posted January 3, 2008 Author Share Posted January 3, 2008 (edited) pics are coming as soon as i get it home...... This is what I saw on Ebay!!! Edited January 3, 2008 by Black93inMA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black93inMA Posted January 7, 2008 Author Share Posted January 7, 2008 (edited) Welcome to the board! JUST took delivery of the new PATHY!!! While it was on the flatbed I took a look underneath searching for the dreaded frame rot and found it on the drivers side rear frame rail..... didn't really look so bad... This pathy was donated to charity auction and for $650 I scored big time! Still trying to figure out whats wrong with it.... Found a mess of receipts in the glovebox and found that all the hose belts and timing belt was changed at 107,000 miles. It now has 152,400 on it..... Timing belt intervals say change every 60,000......What do you guys think? Gonna do a fluid change and swap out the battery and fix the frame rail. Will send detailed pics when I get them.... Have a 2 inch body lift in the garage from a Jeep , may start with that, too! Edited January 7, 2008 by Black93inMA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagwoodzz Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Welcome, You can probably safely do a few more miles on the t-belt there is some safety factor in suggested replacement time, if you wait too long ouch. Try to evaluate the condition of your waterpump as it's logical to replace this at the same time the belt is replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Welcome, You can probably safely do a few more miles on the t-belt there is some safety factor in suggested replacement time, if you wait too long ouch. Try to evaluate the condition of your waterpump as it's logical to replace this at the same time the belt is replaced. what dagz said, plus. how long has it been sitting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 the 93s are my favorite year model! Unique dash style and last of it's kind before everything went to electronical! What kind of roof rack is that? It sure not stock. Nice score! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black93inMA Posted January 9, 2008 Author Share Posted January 9, 2008 the 93s are my favorite year model! Unique dash style and last of it's kind before everything went to electronical! What kind of roof rack is that? It sure not stock. Nice score! Yeah roof rack looks weird...... Turns out is was driven up until November 15th of this past year...... So sitting less than a month. Has a current inspection sticker on it... Charged Battery started it and took it for a ride around the block. Shifts nice 4X4 Hi + Lo Engage no problem. Engine started right up and ran smoothe, no hesitation or ticking or noise. Have some Oil coming off the head/valve cover on drivers side...burning on exhaust... Head Gasket? Valve Cover Gasket? Rolling it into garage tonight jacking it up and pulling all wheels off..... Will let you know how it progresses.... Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 the 93s are my favorite year model! Unique dash style and last of it's kind before everything went to electronical! What kind of roof rack is that? It sure not stock. Nice score! My 95 has that same roof rack....I'm pretty sure its stock. What do you mean electronical? I have a 93 and a 95 and the only difference i noticed was the dashboard was more curvy and the center console was different. but thats it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordsho90 Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 Welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black93inMA Posted January 9, 2008 Author Share Posted January 9, 2008 My 95 has that same roof rack....I'm pretty sure its stock. What do you mean electronical? I have a 93 and a 95 and the only difference i noticed was the dashboard was more curvy and the center console was different. but thats it I took a closer look at the roof rack......and its says ISUZU on it LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black93inMA Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 (edited) OK so here is the latest news..... I cut out the rust in the left rear wheel well frame area and welded in a new section with 1/8 plates. I installed 4 new shocks on all corners as tubes were rusted on originals. I replaced all the fluids and filters with proper weights and Lucas products. After driving 100 miles or so I developed a surging problem where i would accelerate and at about 3000 RPM the engine would cut out down to 1000 RPM and then surge between 1000 and 2000 RPM's. I then changed the fuel filter and the distributor cap+rotor. I noticed the distributor was missing the tab closest to the engine so only 2 screws hold on th cap not 3... I drove it for a day (75 miles) and it seemed to have new life and more power in it and then all hell broke loose. While accelerating onto highway traffic i hit 3500 RPM and the engine immediately dropped down to 1000 and began to surge, I feathered the pedal to try and gain speed as a semi beared down on me. The POWER light flickered on the dash and a red light on the dash came on near the check engine light. I was able to get off at the next exit and drove back roads all the way home at under 3000 RPM. I tried a little experiment on the way home.....I turned on the POWER button and accelerated quickly. This time the engine surged between 500 and 1500 bucking wildly, I let off the gas and it settle down. Research on the forums gave me 'some' advice.... MAF? Fuel Pump? Ignition Coil? all three? I think maybe I know why I paid $650 for this rig..... Any advice would be great! Edited January 24, 2008 by Black93inMA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black93inMA Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 OK so here is the latest news..... I cut out the rust in the left rear wheel well frame area and welded in a new section with 1/8 plates. I installed 4 new shocks on all corners as tubes were rusted on originals. I replaced all the fluids and filters with proper weights and Lucas products. After driving 100 miles or so I developed a surging problem where i would accelerate and at about 3000 RPM the engine would cut out down to 1000 RPM and then surge between 1000 and 2000 RPM's. I then changed the fuel filter and the distributor cap+rotor. I noticed the distributor was missing the tab closest to the engine so only 2 screws hold on th cap not 3... I drove it for a day (75 miles) and it seemed to have new life and more power in it and then all hell broke loose. While accelerating onto highway traffic i hit 3500 RPM and the engine immediately dropped down to 1000 and began to surge, I feathered the pedal to try and gain speed as a semi beared down on me. The POWER light flickered on the dash and a red light on the dash came on near the check engine light. I was able to get off at the next exit and drove back roads all the way home at under 3000 RPM. I tried a little experiment on the way home.....I turned on the POWER button and accelerated quickly. This time the engine surged between 500 and 1500 bucking wildly, I let off the gas and it settle down. Research on the forums gave me 'some' advice.... MAF? Fuel Pump? Ignition Coil? all three? I think maybe I know why I paid $650 for this rig..... Any advice would be great! NEW PROBLEM Just went out to get something out of truck before bed and noticed the power locks didn't STRANGE. Tried to start and was totally DEAD. Opened hood and was smell of burned electrical. Battery was warm to touch and 25 degrees outside..... Put voltage meter on it and it read LESS than 5 volts. Put trickle charger on it and it said it was 100%. Gonna Disconnect battery for the night so it doesn;t explode or something. ARRRRGGGGH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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