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Question About Bearing And Balljoint Replacement


taro
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Hello all, new here. I have a 1998 SE 4x4 with a manual transmission. It has about 148,000 miles. It needs new front brakes, pads, and half-shafts and I was going to replace the rotors too so I don't have to leave the vehicle disassembled while the rotors were turned. I also have some verticle play in both of the front wheels (probably about 5 mm).

 

I've been told that simply repacking the wheel bearings may be enough to address the play and that I should reuse the snap rings.

 

My questions:

 

1. Even if the wheel bearings, steering knuckle needle bearings, and ball joints seem okay, at 148,000 miles, should I go ahead and replace them?

 

2. Is it okay to reuse the snap rings and ball joint nuts or should I go ahead and try to find replacements (neither the dealership nor Advance had them). Thanks, Taro

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welcome.

 

 

 

1. if you have the dough, change them all.. their design life really isn't much, if any, over 100k mi.

 

2. castle nuts should be fine. snap rings on bj's? i am not familiar with this r50 setup. someone will be along shortly to give you a better answer.

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welcome.

1. if you have the dough, change them all.. their design life really isn't much, if any, over 100k mi.

 

2. castle nuts should be fine. snap rings on bj's? i am not familiar with this r50 setup. someone will be along shortly to give you a better answer.

 

Thanks for the welcome and the info. The snap rings are for the hubs. There is a small hub cap that you pull off and the snap ring is under that.

 

BTW, what do people use to put the hub cap back on? I'm having difficulty finding a socket that large. I'm assuming if I can find a socket that large it should be sized somewhere from 45 to 50mm. Is that right?

 

Also, do most people here do the best they can to loosen and tighten the lock ring or do you use the special tool. The special tool/socket sounds nice so that you can torque to spec, but I can't seem to find a Nissan compatible one.

 

Lastly, what is it with Nissan torque spec ranges being so wide. I've been shooting for the middle of the range. Is that right or are you supposed to start on the low side and go higher as needed? Thanks again.

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You can reuse the snap rings and castle nuts.

 

For torque specs, I typically go to the high side. I've never had problems either with bolts stretching/breaking, or things coming loose that way.

 

For the wheel bearings, mark where they line up with the hub, take them apart, clean out, repack with grease, and then tighten to the same spot. If they're still loose, tighten them up until there's no more play, but the hub still spins freely. I've done mine like that for years with no issues. Use a hammer and screwdriver or punch to tighten the nut.

Edited by Simon
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You can reuse the snap rings and castle nuts.

 

For torque specs, I typically go to the high side. I've never had problems either with bolts stretching/breaking, or things coming loose that way.

 

For the wheel bearings, mark where they line up with the hub, take them apart, clean out, repack with grease, and then tighten to the same spot. If they're still loose, tighten them up until there's no more play, but the hub still spins freely. I've done mine like that for years with no issues. Use a hammer and screwdriver or punch to tighten the nut.

 

Thanks for the info and the tip about the locknut. Very good to know.

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You can reuse the snap rings and castle nuts.

 

For torque specs, I typically go to the high side. I've never had problems either with bolts stretching/breaking, or things coming loose that way.

 

For the wheel bearings, mark where they line up with the hub, take them apart, clean out, repack with grease, and then tighten to the same spot. If they're still loose, tighten them up until there's no more play, but the hub still spins freely. I've done mine like that for years with no issues. Use a hammer and screwdriver or punch to tighten the nut.

 

 

yup.. i normally tighten the hub nut.. then spin the wheel forwards and backwards to seat the bearing.. then retighten if need be. hammer and punch or flat head screwdriver works well.. no problem reusing the snap rings either.

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yup.. i normally tighten the hub nut.. then spin the wheel forwards and backwards to seat the bearing.. then retighten if need be. hammer and punch or flat head screwdriver works well.. no problem reusing the snap rings either.

 

Thanks for the input. It's reassuring to hear how all of you have successfully worked on these things. Right now I'm trying to think through it too much. You are helping me calm down; hopefully I'll get to tackle it over the weekend.

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There are two locknut sockets that will work, OTC7698 and a CTA tool that I can't remember the number of. Here's one link with the OTC socket:

 

http://www.handsontools.com/store/list_pro...product_number=

 

You can also buy one of the common locknut sockets at any auto parts store and grind/bend the tabs to fit. Here's a pic of the dimensions you need:

 

http://groups.msn.com/LewisPictures/shoebo...&PhotoID=21

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There are two locknut sockets that will work, OTC7698 and a CTA tool that I can't remember the number of. Here's one link with the OTC socket:

 

http://www.handsontools.com/store/list_pro...product_number=

 

You can also buy one of the common locknut sockets at any auto parts store and grind/bend the tabs to fit. Here's a pic of the dimensions you need:

 

http://groups.msn.com/LewisPictures/shoebo...&PhotoID=21

 

Lewisnc100, thanks for the info. I'm going to start scouring the local stores to see if anyone has it in stock. Whenever possible, I like to have whatever will help me torque things to the recommended figures. It just makes me feel better. If I can't find it, I'll use the Simon method.

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Another question: I took off the hubcap for the flange and the thing was just caked in rust. This is the first time I've seen something so cruddy looking in a "sealed" area (one of the six studs came out instead of the nut as an added bonus). Is this normal or do I need to keep my eyes open for some damage? Thanks again. Taro

Edited by taro
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