Polyurethane bushing installation

[Guest Kopec]

I have recently isolated my "Nissan Shimmy" problem to the Rear Lower control arm bushings. After much difficultiy in breaking the bolts, I have found that all 4 bushings are either cracked, torn and otherwise demolished.

 

I have recieved bushings from Automotive Customizers (AC) and am in the process of trying to install them into the control arms. I received the bushings that were pictured for 1996 - 2000 model year Pathfinder - rear lower control arm bushings.

 

A number of prevous threads have indicated the use of a vise instead of a press due to control issues ( i.e. the bushing popping out and hitting you in the face).

 

But I just cannot believe that these bushing are the correct ones - we are talking about pressing a 2.5" diameter (shoulder of bushing) through a 2" hole. Am I missing something.

 

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[sw]

umm i probably woundnt try it myself (thats big for me to say that...)

you should obviosly have the arms out of the vehicle, so take them to a 'fitter & turner' and get them to press the bushes in. they will have the right press and will do it easy

 

if you do it with a vice you run the chance of damaging the bushes

what ever you do DONT take it to a stealer unless you wanna get ripped

[Guest Kopec]

Thanks for the feedback.

 

I am sure now that the bushings I ordered from AC were not correct. They offer two types of lower control arm bushings, but the ones I need - they call the "trailing arm" bushings - this terminology is quite confusing - as the Chilton and Nissan shop manuals call them the lower control arm - rear suspension bushings. Perhaps, I recieved the rear bushings for the front lower control arms.

 

In any case, with any luck, I will have the correct bushings soon and can proceed with the job.

[Trvlace]

You will not beleive the difference it will make. Be sure to get some nice gas shocks for the rear and some gas struts up front. It will drive like a new one, well better really. The rear end on mine is so stiff I can just whip it in a turn nail the gas the the rear end slides right around. Nice. No where near the body roll in on ramp and that type driving too.

[Guest Kopec]

Well, I got the right part. Unfortunately, Automotive Customizers was unwilling to recognize the confusion that I had with the terminology of their part. So all I can do is post here and hope no-one else reading this has the same dificulty. Parts diagrams on auto part web sites is a good thing.

 

In any case, I would recommend this modification to any Pathfinder operator. It not only fixes the problem, but possibly provides a better / tighter feel than when new.

 

Pressing in the bushings is no big deal - having this professionally done is not necessary. A Bench vise and some grease is all you need to perform the task. Just make sure that you place a block of wood or similar under the bushing and sleeve of the control arm - so that the bushing does not pop out from the bottom end of the "sandwich".

 

If you take on this job, just make sure that you treat the bolts/ threads with WD-40, kro-oil or similar a few days ahead of time. Repeat applications regularly. This will make the job go much smoother.

[sw]

so the vice was quite ok, thats good to know

 

 

-study-

[kmgar99]

Now that you did it and it worked out OK....I think i'll try it now.

 

Did you get the correct bushings from AC? What were they called (terminology)?

[Guest Kopec]

The Bushings from AC are called "Trailing Arm" bushings. You will need 2 sets of 2 - to do both lower control arm bushings.

 

To remove the old bushings (depending upon how damaged) drill a series of holes through the rubber, until the center bushing can be removed by tapping with a hammer. Once the center bushing is removed, saw (with hack saw) through the outer sleeve (of the bushing). Next, with a hammer and chisel, curl the sleve away from the control arm sleeve. A flat end chisel seemed to work well - without a low of effort.