Orangetang Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 (edited) This is weird and just stated happening today. When the engine is revved above an idle, the BOSE amp shuts off, and the parking brake light, A/T Temp light, battery light and eventually the ABS light all come on and stay on. There is an audible but faint click in the dash, when this happens. As soon as the rpm drops below 1000rpm all is normal. The same when driving.. Accelerating causes the lights to come on, and the front speakers to turn off, let off the throttle and the rpm drops all is normal. NO odd sounds coming from the alternator or anything like that. Also note that scanguageII shows a reading of ~19.1Volts while this is happening........ I hate electrical problems.... What do you think? Edited July 9, 2007 by Orangetang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Voltage regulator has gone bad. Don't drive your truck any further until you get it fixed, or you'll fry the PCM! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted July 9, 2007 Author Share Posted July 9, 2007 (edited) Are you fairly positive? I'll go buy one, and install it if you're pretty sure that's the problem. After playing with it a little this morning, I'm also leaning towards a voltage regulator. Say the engine is at 1,200 rpm and nothing is working. I turn on the heater fan to position 2 or higher and stuff works. I increase the rpm to 1,700 or so and it goes to @!*% again. Stuff running off the battery that wouldn't be regulated have no effect on this. IS the regulator on the alternator? I'm having troubles finding this in the service manual. Unless it's the "Combination Meter Charge", which looks to be between the alternator and fuseblock. Edited July 9, 2007 by Orangetang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted July 9, 2007 Author Share Posted July 9, 2007 Or, the IC voltage regulator assembly on the alternator? Is this a replaceable part or an entire alternator. Which do you think it is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Yes, I'm positive. The 3 lights glowing on the dash is the absolute tip-off (plus your SGII reading 19 volts!) The voltage regulator is built-in to the alternator, so you need to replace the alternator. Dude, seriously, don't operate your truck anymore! You're surely going to fry some electrical stuff in your truck if you keep running it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted July 9, 2007 Author Share Posted July 9, 2007 Yes, I'm positive. The 3 lights glowing on the dash is the absolute tip-off (plus your SGII reading 19 volts!) The voltage regulator is built-in to the alternator, so you need to replace the alternator. Dude, seriously, don't operate your truck anymore! You're surely going to fry some electrical stuff in your truck if you keep running it! Thanks for the tip. I'm off to buy one. Do you recommend Nissan genuine (Hitachi) or anything I can find from UAP/NAPA etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Thanks for the tip. I'm off to buy one. Do you recommend Nissan genuine (Hitachi) or anything I can find from UAP/NAPA etc. Any brand replacement will work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted July 15, 2007 Author Share Posted July 15, 2007 Thanks for all the help! I had time to get an alternator installed today, and it has completely fixed the problem. Sadly, it appears my daytime running light module may be toasted. My PS lowbeam is out, while the daytime and highbeam still work. Last time this happened I think it cost about $400CAD to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 (edited) Try replacing the bulb first (or at least swapping the left and right bulbs to see if the problem moves with the bulb or not). The low-beam filament of the bulb may just be burned out. DRL's use the high-beam filament at a lower voltage, which explains why your high-beams and the DRL's work, but the low-beam does not. Edited July 15, 2007 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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