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DaveS
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I know I am probably driving people nuts with tire questions but i have another one. I know that a stock pathy can run 31X10.5 but there are problems with rubbing on the fenders when going over bumps and can cause some body damage if the front end gets launched. so here is my question if i run 31X9 will that alleviate those problems or would i have to go down to a 30X9.

 

thanks for your patents and help

Dave S

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are your torsion bars sagging?

I haven't looked and my pathy is still in Ft Collins :( hopefully it will be back by the end of the week. what would the sagging mien slick. I should have said this earlier but would the narrower tires slip inside the wheel wells instead of hitting the fenders how narrow would i have to go would that be an acceptable size or would it be to narrow??? or would i be better off going to a 30 to avoid the tires hitting?

Edited by DaveS
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When I had 31x10.5 tires and my old rear coils, the tires would rub when i went over a huge bump with a full load (camping/fishing gear, 2 friends, trailering the 14' boat, etc) These tires were mounted on the grey lego factory wheels. Are you running the same wheels or chrome stock ones? The chrome wheels are 15x6 while the legos are 15x7. The backspacing may be different on them and change how far the tires stick out. I ended up getting some heavy duty rear springs to stop the rubbing and they have worked like a charm thus far. My front tires never rubbed, even with 31x10.5 tires and a saggy front suspension.

Edited by skrillaguerilla
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I have Stock Chrome wheels. Where did they rub inside the wheel-wells or on the the fenders outside the wheel-well? i was thinking that if i ran slightly narrower tires that they would fall inside the wheel-wells and not hit the fender. I also want to keep a decent ride going 80mph (interstate speeds) would narrower or slightly smaller help with that ???

Edited by DaveS
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I have stock 31x10.5 on the 15" legos. No lift. Stock/original suspension (the lame-o adjustable ones). The suspension is pretty much shot, even thought the adjustable part still works. They ride like crap on the street and feel like they are coming apart over small bumps.

 

The front has never bottomed out.

The back has only done it in one setting - 40mph on sand dunes w/ a full load of people and gear, going over small, rough, washboard-type bumps. Nothing was damaged, just a little rubbin'

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DaveS didn't we cover this in your last post about it?? the damage to the fenders you are referring to was from jjbigshoes. if you read his post about it he said he launched (iirc) 2-3ft in the air. i don't mean to sound like a jerk but we just covered this a few days ago. if your worried about fender damage when launching into the air than do what most have done here and go get a 3 inch body lift. they cost around $100. maybe a little more. i did that when i had my 31's and never had a issue with rubbing or fender damage and when i had my 31's they were on 15x10 chevy wheels so they stuck out close to 2 inches. i have also posted pictures of before the body lift and after and also current with 33's. like i said i don't mean to sound like an a**hole but it has been covered recently.

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DaveS didn't we cover this in your last post about it?? the damage to the fenders you are referring to was from jjbigshoes. if you read his post about it he said he launched (iirc) 2-3ft in the air. i don't mean to sound like a jerk but we just covered this a few days ago. if your worried about fender damage when launching into the air than do what most have done here and go get a 3 inch body lift. they cost around $100. maybe a little more. i did that when i had my 31's and never had a issue with rubbing or fender damage and when i had my 31's they were on 15x10 chevy wheels so they stuck out close to 2 inches. i have also posted pictures of before the body lift and after and also current with 33's. like i said i don't mean to sound like an a**hole but it has been covered recently.

 

 

agreed. actually when i posted again i thought this was the original.....

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so 31's don't stick out past the fenders unless you run them on different rims for instance the Chevy rims??? which is actually the question that i started the post with. 2'nd would slightly narrower tires fit better on chrome rims or will the 10.5's work on them? out of curiosity did the pathy's that came stock with 31's have the same gearing as other pathy's or was it different. sorry if I'm being repetitive i just want to make sure that i don't screw anything up.

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Same gearing, I believe. Gearing was more dependant on manual vs auto tranny. 31x10.5's will fit fine on the stock chromies. Legos (aluminum) had a little less backspacing, so they stuck out more. You should have no issues running 31x10.5 on either rims, and shouldn't rub much, if at all, either front or rear, unless, of course, your suspension has sagged significantly.

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no simon there was no rhyme or reason what pathfinder got the 4.6 or the 4.3 gearing. some autos had 4.6 and some manuals had the 4.3 and vice versa. so gearing is not a problem either with the tires.

 

so just get some 31 1050s and be done with it plz

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the damage to the fenders you are referring to was from jjbigshoes. if you read his post about it he said he launched (iirc) 2-3ft in the air.
Exactly. My truck had a suspension lift (about 2 1/2") and 32 x 11.5" tires on rims with 3 3/4" backspacing. If I had 31 x 10.5" tires on stock rims (with 4" backspacing) it most likely wouldn't have crunched the fenders. 31's on stock lego rims would be tucked in about 1 1/4" further than mine. Doesn't sound like much, but that's about where my tires hit the fenders.

 

Or you could just not launch your truck in the air like an idiot, but where's the fun in that? :skull:

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whats the backspacing on the stock chrome rims how far would the tires stick out with them. how difficult is it to install a body lift putting the lifting blocks on the frame to body mounts sounds like the easy part from what i have read. what do i have to worry about relocating if i get a body lift. I'm not that much of a experienced mechanic if i have directions that covers everything in detail I can get most things done but that usually doesn't happen. how long does a body lift take to install?

Edited by DaveS
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a body lift can and usually run you about a day. do one side at a time. there is a write up i believe in the pinned topics. use the search button. i'm not sure of the backspacing but i think it's 4".

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Yep...the write up by Statikuz in the pinned sections is quite complete. It took me and a few friends about 5-6 hours to do the body lift on mine. Before jacking anything up, remove the stock rear bolts, then put in the longer bolts that come with the body lift in the rear most holes, but do not put in the blocks. This will help keep the body aligned as you jack it up, and make your life getting the blocks and bolts in a hell of a lot easier.

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i Read that write up in it he mentions that there are some things that are attached to both the body and the frame that need to be unbolted and i was wondering if anyone had a list of these things or remembers how many of them there were. and what they were I have a 94XE with A/C

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the driveline safety hoop needs to be unbolted. the gas filler neck needs to be unbolted. and i just had a brain fart and can't remember what else needed to be loosened or unbolted. simon you just did yours recently can you remember what else.

Edited by aries247
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did you just bend them with your hands and how did you have to bend them? what year is your pathy would a 94 have the same problem also the instructions list a lot of things to be disconnected from the firewall and the fenders do those get reconnected or do they just get left how they are. also who makes the body lift kits that 4x4parts sells? and what about the radiator drop down kit advantages and disadvantages?

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