DaveS Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 my 1994 pathfinder ticks under acceleration when the engine is cold. but it doesn't tick at idle and only sometimes will it tick when reved with the clutch out. is this the manifolds becoming detached. if it is how easy is it to see the manifolds detaching. i had a mechanic do a quick check on the manifold but he didn't see any thing. i know that i have 2 exhaust leaks one in the muffler and one some where in the pipe I'm not sure where could these be the source of the ticking?? it sounds like its coming from some where near the front but i can only hear it when I'm driving so it could be any where. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 It's the manifolds. Very typical of our WD21 Pathfinders. If it's only when cold, it's probably only 1 or 2 studs broken, or loose. You won't be able to see the space between the manifold and the block, but it's there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveS Posted May 29, 2007 Author Share Posted May 29, 2007 (edited) to fix the problem do you have to replace the manifold or just the studs and if the studs are broken how do you get them out also according to the plates under the hood of my pathy it says that i have the VG 30 engine. would this engine have the same problem and what is the difference between the two i don't have a manual and i have had my 94 for less than a week Edited May 29, 2007 by DaveS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 The VG30 engine is about the only engine used in North America in WD21 Pathy's. We all have them, in one incarnation or another. (there were a few with the 4cyl engine) typically, removing the studs and replacing with 300zx studs and then torquing the manifolds down will fix it, unless the manifolds have warped very badly. Based upon your description, I'd say that isn't the case, since the ticking goes away once it's warmed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Simon is right and this is something that all of us (VG30 owners) have to deal with sooner or later. I replaced my manifold studs when I did the engine swap. If none of them are broke at the head and they all come out easily then it's a realative piece of cake, if they do not want to come out then it gets more complicated. (I had three or four that I had to extract the hard way) As Simon pointed out the VG30 is basicly the only engine you will find in the North American WD21's (87-95 Pathfinders), the exception would be a few 4cyl WD21's he mentioned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveS Posted May 30, 2007 Author Share Posted May 30, 2007 thanks for the help how do you extract broken studs. also i think that the problem is a split exhaust pipe because after having Friend help me we found that the sound was under the cab and not the hood. but i will check all the studs just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 Stud extraction varies. If it's broken, but not broken inside the block, you can clamp vise grips on it, and screw it out. If it's broken inside, some have used "easy out" type extractors, and some have had to drill out the bolt. Others have welded a bolt to the stud, and screwed it out. If it is broken in the block, be sure to be VERY careful drilling out the stud if it comes down to that. The water jackets are very close to the studs, and you don't want to drill through them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveS Posted May 30, 2007 Author Share Posted May 30, 2007 so if you have to drill out the bold you would drill a little smaller and then tap the hole for the same size and threads as the origional stud??? thx Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 That would be the plan, yes. Otherwise, you may have to find heli-coils the right size to accept the stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveS Posted June 1, 2007 Author Share Posted June 1, 2007 (edited) i thought that you still had to tap the hole with heiecoils and that they were just there to strengthen the threads Edited June 1, 2007 by DaveS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Yes....you do still have to tap. But sometimes to fit a smaller bolt, or stud, it's worth it. Plus, should something go wrong, you can pull out the heli coil, and put in another one the same size, without having to drill the hole larger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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