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A Few Issues...


avaholic
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my speedo needle is warped and scrapes along the instrument cluster, always sticking between 30 and 70, i seached for a fix but most everything is about needles that arent working period.

also, when i first got the pathy, it used to make a winding/grinding noise in the front before "clunking" into place, and i have no idea why, i assume the hubs are screwed up, but hopefully not the transfer case..or diffy...any way, my step dad took it to a shop and they just told me "not to use the 4x4" without being specific as to why, which really pissed me off, so any ideas or suggestions would be awesome.EDIT: also, back when i still used the 4x4 i couldn't shift into 4 lo, only 4 hi, so im assuming im either stupid or the t-case is shot...hopefully im just stupid and missing something

Also it's time to get inspected and i have a MASSIVE hole in the muffler, so i am curious as to how hard of a fix it'l be since im sure i could do it myself, but maybe it isnt worth it and it'd be better to just pay a grease monkey to do it? any help there would be great too

thanks guys!

I'm hoping to get some pics taken of the pathy, get em sent in w/ the 10 bucks and join up w/ NPORA, i'd love some decals and maybe even a "trail rated my a$$" decal as mentioned in a jeep thread i read somewhere...

Edited by avaholic
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Warped needle is not uncommon in really hot places. When it gets really hot, the plastic tends to warp and the needle bends backward and the tip drags on the face of the gauge.

I removed the instrument cluster, then the clear cover, and then used a heat gun to (very carefully) soften the plastic just enough to bend back forward.

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Warped needle is not uncommon in really hot places. When it gets really hot, the plastic tends to warp and the needle bends backward and the tip drags on the face of the gauge.

I removed the instrument cluster, then the clear cover, and then used a heat gun to (very carefully) soften the plastic just enough to bend back forward.

i havent got a heat gun, but i can easily pick one up but...will a hair dryer work? or is it too risky?

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Maybe! Give it a try. You may want to try blocking the air inlet somewhat to reduce air volume. Hair dryers have about the same amount of heat output as a gun, but with a whole lot more air volume so the air coming out is not as hot. Blocking some of the input will raise the temp. But use care that it doesn't melt down.

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Ok.... Muffler.

Most of us are running Flowmasters or Dynomax (my personal choice). Most purchased through Summit Racing and had a local good ol mom and pop shop weld it in. If the stock piping is OK, leave it be.

If piping is rusted out, we have pretty much all had custom pipes bent at the local mom and pop shops. Avoid the chains (Midas, Firestone, PepBoys, et al) unless you know for a fact that yours is the 1 in 1000 that actually hires people skilled and careful enough to do a good job! Most have been severely disappointed when going to the big flashy shops.

I think stock on '88 is 2" piping. 2.25" is arguably ideal for stockish 3.0 L engine. 2.5" may give up a little torque, but still OK. Anything bigger or duals is wasted money.

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I have a flowmaster cat back on mine that I am quie happy with. mws is dead right about the pipe diameter.

 

i couldn't shift into 4 lo

 

I have to ask, were you pushing DOWN on the shifter when going from 4wh to 4wl? It is required. There is a shifting thread around here, I'll look for it.

 

B

 

I think this is it, but there are a few. Let me know.

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6957

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I have a flowmaster cat back on mine that I am quie happy with. mws is dead right about the pipe diameter.

I have to ask, were you pushing DOWN on the shifter when going from 4wh to 4wl? It is required. There is a shifting thread around here, I'll look for it.

 

B

 

I think this is it, but there are a few. Let me know.

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6957

ha, thats actually news to me... tomorrow i'll look into how much im going to have to put down for the muffler, any ideas on the cost? im guessing around 100? anyways thanks a lot for your help guys

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i couldn't shift into 4 lo, only 4 hi,

 

Do you have a body lift?

 

Some folks have gotten lifts and had to notch out around the 4wd shifter b/c it was hitting the floor when going in 4lo after the lift.

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The cat back, SS pipe and magnaflow muffler was about $240 installed in Cali 3 years ago. I'm not sure what that means where you are.

 

ha, thats actually news to me...

 

No biggie, unless you have the owners manual(and read it), have talked to someone or monkey'd with the shifter a lot you wouldn't know it. A few people have been stymied by it. I believe it's to keep idiots from spraying transfer case parts all over the highway while they 'shift on the fly'... :ohno01:

 

B

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Ive had the same clunking problem during the winter. Has stopped now but i dont know. It was kinda like a lound humming noise, sounded like something wasnt engaged or disengaged all the way in the left front hub. And some other times when i would put it into four wheel drive i would drive forward alittle and then clunk. Like something didnt engage when i put it in 4 wheel drive.

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Have you tried removing the hubs and looking at the guts? Maybe it is as simple as dried up/gunky/dirty grease that is not letting the auto lock activate smoothly.

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