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cross drilled rotors...


squam1
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Just ordered some cross drilled rotors and Hawk pads last night and hopefully will be getting them sometime soon... anyone have any experience with the TRW Powerstop cross drilled rotors? Or any others that are either drilled or slotted? I'd be curious to hear your experiences with these.

 

Think I'm gonna order the 2" lift in the next couple of weeks too... father's day/b-day gift... I know, I know, I keep saying I'm gonna do it, just need to get off my butt and order it I spose...

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I've been looking for TRW Powerstop's or Brembo's for my 92 Pathy. Ordered up some front Powerstop rotors locally today at a very good price of 20% off $96 each. :dance: These are slotted. Seems Powerstop only offers the slotted version for the front wheels of this Pathy. While the cross-drilled can be found for both front and rear. The regular price I was quoted was $110 front/$113 rear for cross-drilled. I'll look around for slotted rear Brembos later. My parts shop also found those hard to find [in CO at least] AXXIS Metal Master brake pads at $43 front/$39 rear [less 20%].

 

Anyone find it a concern if I run the Powerstop on the front and OE rotors on the rear [until I find Brembos]? Will I have a hazard situation under hard braking? I drive/climb a 2500 ft rise 2-3 times a day with a lot of high speed braking on a mountain road. After running this route for 12 years now, the old saying, "familiarity breeds contempt" applies here.

 

I settled on slotted over cross-drilled, since I wanted better heat dissipation [over my OE rotors] and a more reliable rotor. Not to open up a huge debate on the matter, but it seems there is still some issues with cross-drilled rotors cracking and coupled with the fact that the holes fill up with brake pad debris which in turn defeats the purpose of cross-drilled, namely dissipation of brake gases and moisture. Slotted offered a good compromise. RC

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88 - the rotors were $104 each - and they are side specific naturally, cause the drill pattern is directional. Didn't shop around a whole lot, but the Hawks pads were comparable price-wise to tirerack and other online vendors...

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i'd be worried if you had a higher perfomance rotor on the back rather than the front, but who the hell would do that? You should be fine with just the fronts. My younger brother put c/d rotors and EBC pads with new calipers on all 4 corners of his 91 mr2 turbo. Cost him a pretty penny, but MAN! does that thing ever stop on a dime -i sh*t you not when I say dime... what a difference. I'm sure it'll have the same effect on our portly 4500 pound trucks if you had a bigger rotor. I've never had to use the brakes enough to experience any fading or gassing off, but i'm sure bigger ones would help when i'm towing the boat around.

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ive been looking to get some new rotors too. i just like the idea of having the power to stop in a moments notice. you can never have enough stopping power, now only if we had tons of go power.

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Squam1, Thanks for the lead on SP Performance rotors. Wish I had seen these before I ordered the Powerstops. I like the combination slotted/diamond pattern. Hmmmm....I'll give those a thought for the rear rotors in stead of the Brembos.

 

Got my Powerstops front rotors and AXXIS Metal Master brake pads yesterday. I see time between the BBQs & beers and the celebrating [wife's birthday] :beer: this weekend to get them on the Pathy.

 

Also, I talked to TRW Powerstop applications [to confirm no rear rotors were avaialble for the '92 Pathy] and asked their opinion on the use of synthetic brake fluid. Got an emphatic negative on using the synthetics because any infiltrated water into the system is immiscible with the brake fluid. Rather water will migrate to the lowest point in the system -- wheel cylinders -- and create a loss of braking power. Now this didn't sound right to me...didn't strike me as completely factual. I'm researching this further. But in the meantime, any opinions [facts are even better :D ] out there? RC

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very interesting about the synthetic... wonder why the water would sink to the lowest point? Is water truly more dense than the syn fluid? I'd tend to doubt that, but in actuality, I have no freakin idea... :aok:

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I was toying with the idea of using synthetic brake fluid [like Motul 600] in the Pathy once the new rotors/pads were installed. But didn't have a good basis for doing so. I recall reading that the synthetics were better able to handle moisture absorption in that the fluid's boiling point isn't drasticly lowered like the DOT3/4 fluids. Unfortunately, I can't find the link to that analysis. However, I did come across this one ...well not all Dot 3 or 4 formulas are the same and synthetic is not necessarily superior. Like anything in life, there are trade offs. Also I tracked down a Leica Refractometer report here on brake fluids. Pretty insightful stuff. RC

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