33's

[RedPath88]

3in is about the max your going to get from the front no matter what UCA's you use. AC Lists 3in (the max) and RC lists 1.5-2in as a happy medium.

 

You also need to understand that RC's reference is being done with the UCA's being sold as part of a lift kit for a leaf sprung Hardbody. Why does this matter? Because the kit includes longer shackles for the lift in the rear of a HB. And 2in is about as much as you should go with lift shackles (because they are actually 4inches longer than stock to get that 2inches of effective lift)

 

If your still afraid that RC arms cannot give 3 inches of lift then, as an example, take a look at 88's sig

6+" of lift(Superlift UCA's/JGC coils, Trailmaster 3" body lift)

We'll round it to a straigh 6in, now take the body lift out and that still leaves 3in of lift. He did that with suspension lift and since he does not have a diff drop kit (such as Trailmasters 4in lift - See Slicks King CaCa) that means the lift was attained through cranking the TBars.

 

He uses Superlift UCA's, which are the same a Rough Country's Arms... SL makes RC's, they are just a different color. And I can, through personal experience, verify that this is true.

 

You "could" get that lift without after market UCA's, but it is NOT recommended! After market arms correct the suspension geometry. Without them you cannot properly align the front end and you will go though a lot more tires.

 

Yesterday I saw a Pathfinder here in town with a three inch body lift and a TBar crank lift... looked to be about 3in as well. The tops of the front tires leaned WAY in and I could hear the money flying out of the owners wallet, in the form of tire wear.

 

*If I see that truck again I am going to try and talk to the driver/owner. It was the same color as mine, I think it was a two door though I don't recall exactly. I was right behind it in the turn lane and as soon as I got a side veiw (as it turned) the tires caught and held my attention

 

 

This has been said many, many times.... in the front you should get stock length shocks, because the travel of the front suspension does not change with new UCA's and/or TBar crank.

 

 

My last statement only means that the UCA's do not provide the lift (the TBars do) so they are not really "lift" arms

[Kn0xville]

here, ill make a list for you

 

-rough country UCA's.

-AC's rear coil springs.

-Procomp es3000 shocks for 135 bucks for all 4 + steering stablizer (just call em and tell them to make 3inches longer)

-15x8 wheels with 3.75 back spacing (i recommend summit racing)

-AC 3in BL

-L&P CL and IA

-Aftermarket Tranny cooler (which you should have already anyways!)

 

total would be around 1200 bucks.

[Guest SuperSon]

Dont forget Thorleys

[88_Pathy]

Red- If you have a t-bar crank and no front sway bar you should look at your front tires when you turn too. They freaking lean way in. It is crazy. Then you get the inside tire bouncing off of the ground when you get on the freeway.

[RedPath88]

Do you have aftermarket UCA's?

I have not cranked my TBars yet (waiting on one last part before I install any lift components), but I wonder if it is like that... or as bad, with longer aftermarket UCA's?

[Mr. Pickles]

Couple of things. Ditto on the Rough Country UCA's. I've had them 1 1/2 years, wheeled well, and they're fine. They're also a good company to deal with. If you decide to go with them, give them a call. You'll have to ask to separate the UCA's from the Hardbody kit and have them sold and shipped separately. I'm sure they're used to this by now though. I've got them cranked to just under 3" lift with Sway Away torsion bars. That being said, yes you can achieve roughly the same thing with stock UCA's, and yes you can achieve proper alignment. I drove on that set-up for about 2 years. The cost though, becomes lots of worn out parts down the line. Those UCA's return the suspension to close to stock specs, but the general consensus is that AC UCA's are on the low end of the quality scale and cost more than they're worth.

 

As for the springs, check a junkyard for the JGC ones (there are tons of posts with the specs, check those by 88 especially as well as those by the rest of us with that mod). You could go to AC also, but you might just try checking your parts shop for the cost on a set of brand new JGC or Ford coils. They're not too bad from what I've heard, then you're modding and working on new parts.

 

Finally, the body lift. Not gonna go there, there's tons out there. Really wheeling the truck on 33's with just the BL is not realistic at all without tons of trimming. If it all becomes too much to swallow, you could always try either stockpiling the parts as you can afford them then do it all at once, or start with either the BL or the SL and run your 31's until the other half of the lift comes within budget. There are lots of work arounds out there for various situations. Trust me, most of us running these old trucks don't do so cause we're made of money.

[RedPath88]

Yep search around, in addition to the info 88 has provided over the years, k9sar gave some extensive detail on the different springs and rates that JGC's came with. There is a TON of info one them here.. it's just waiting for you to find it

 

As Mr. P siad go slowly if you need too, there is no reason to rush it. I have been stockpiling parts for a while now. I have all the suspension lift components that I want (except for new TBars, but I don't "need" them anyway) and a body lift. The BL will be the last thing I add (if at all), this just because I have always had a problem with them

 

The reason none of it is installed yet is because I am STILL waiting on one thing before I install them... but that is another issue for another time.

[Guest SuperSon]

Ordered my BL today and still searching for a place that sells Sway away TBARS cheap..any idea guys?

[Mr. Pickles]

Ordered my BL today and still searching for a place that sells Sway away TBARS cheap..any idea guys?

Ask and ye shall recieve.

 

http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/

[Guest SuperSon]

Thanks for the link mr.P