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Body lift


88_Pathy
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Well my buddy and I just finished installing a 3in body lift on my Finder. Hmmm it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be and it only took us like 5 hours. It is a lot taller now and make my little 33s look tiny. The pics will be up as soon as I can get some. Just wanted to share the news.

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I used the brackets on Rami's front bumper and ended up being pretty solid, they worked fairly well. Try it before deciding to do something else, I guess.

 

I left the rad in place and just modded the lower radiator hose to fit. I had to use a short section of metal tube to join two bends back together after getting it cut to fit just right.

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do an Efan swap.

 

looks sweet.

 

Dont hit any ruts too hard. I nailed some last weekend and I knew that somthing was out of wack. but upon closer inspection, my body shifted 1-1.25" FORWARD. all my mounts were bent to fawk. front tires rub like mad. ended up hooking a strap to my spare tire carrier latching part on the body. and then used my winch and two trees to pull my body backwards. got it back most of the way, but still had to trim my fenders. and crank my tbars

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The body lift is sweet so far but it is not what I want in the end. OUCH!! I will sure watch out for the 2 foot ruts you must have hit to do that kind of damage. Did you break anything else while you were at it?

suprizingly no. I though for sure I bent a front crossmember, contorol arm or somthing. but nothing major happend(besides the stated).

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Ive done em too. PITA. needed to heat the big nuts up alot to get them off. and you cant fit any type of ratchet/airtool on it. you have to get the nuts off vie a box end wrench. it takes a LOOOOOONG time. it would go much quicker if you drop the Tbars. but I didnt want to drop them again for the 8 million'th time.

 

Once they were ready to go back on, I had to jack the LCA up(via balljoint) then I slid it in to the frame. lowered the LCA and put one bolt threw the LCA and rod. then had to jsut keep playing with LCA height till I was able to slid the other bolt threw. and then lastly I put the big nut on and tightned it all down.

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  • 1 month later...
Ive done em too. PITA. needed to heat the big nuts up alot to get them off. and you cant fit any type of ratchet/airtool on it. you have to get the nuts off vie a box end wrench. it takes a LOOOOOONG time. it would go much quicker if you drop the Tbars. but I didnt want to drop them again for the 8 million'th time.

 

Once they were ready to go back on, I had to jack the LCA up(via balljoint) then I slid it in to the frame. lowered the LCA and put one bolt threw the LCA and rod. then had to jsut keep playing with LCA height till I was able to slid the other bolt threw. and then lastly I put the big nut on and tightned it all down.

 

:huh: I did both in a couple hours at most along with some other stuff. I hit them with PB Blaster but still had to use a long 1/2 drive breaker bar to get them loose. They were a little tough to line up the bolt holes on reinstall, but nothing too bad. That was one of the easier projects I've had to do, really. Oh, and no messing with the T-bars or LCA's was needed. Just some fiddling.

Edited by Mr. Pickles
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If you want to prevent body shift, do a little triangulation.

 

Basically, a strap (1/8" x1.5" would probably do it, 3/16" definitely would) from the underside of a rearward lift block to the top of a front block. I think from the top of number two to the bottom of number 3 would do it. Yes, you would want to shave off the same thickness from the lift block. And do both sides.

 

What that does is prevent the lift blocks from "racking". If you've done any house framing this should all make sense. The goal is to restrain the top of the lift blocks from moving forward relative to the bottoms.

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