milehighcowboy Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 so i have had this sound for a while now and am now trying to get to the bottom of it. when ever i hit the gas (any load or rpm) i get this clicking noise from my engine. it sounds like it is comming from the passenger side area. i know when i went in and had that nissan 100 point inspection done they said i had a going bad timing belt and then a cracked exaust maifold. could either of these be what i am hearing? thanks in advance guys. ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavelow Leaks Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 First off, replace the belt asap, second the clicking is probably the leaky manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 i am working on a parts list for replacing the belt. then just getting money. and then i am diving in. any recomendations on the manifold? replacement options. only requirement is it has to be do it your self. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 remove and replace broken studs. if manifold itself is cracked, try weding the cracks, or some for of high heat jb weld.... and yeah. get that belt done ASAP.... belts are only $20.. new heads are hundreds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 slick you got any ideas as to what else i should be replacing in there when i am doing the belt? i had found a thread on here before but i cant find it now. and uea i know i am kinda repetitive with this belt parts thing. just wanting a straight answer thats all. thanks slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 (edited) slick you got any ideas as to what else i should be replacing in there when i am doing the belt? i had found a thread on here before but i cant find it now. and uea i know i am kinda repetitive with this belt parts thing. just wanting a straight answer thats all. thanks slick on a budget: t belt, h2o pump, t stat, and the other 2 drive belts. get it all done while yer in there... h2o pumps have a habit of going out shortly after a t belt change.. that really sucks to have to go back in and do it all again! Edited November 25, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 Timing belt 13028-0B785 - Timing belt tensioner 13070-42L00 - Timing belt tensioner stud 08216-62510 - Timing belt tensioner spring 13072-0B700 - Cam seals (x2) 13042-0B001 - Water Pump 21010-12G28 - Thermostat 21200-V5015 - Radiator Hose - Lower 21503-09G00 - Belt - A/C 02117-90523 - Belt - Alternator, Fan 02117-40023 - Belt - Power Steering 11920-7B405 ok so found the list. what do i need and dont need. no work has been done as far as i can tell. so i know i will be replacing at least one belt the bottom one? (which ever that is) i can see cracks in it so i know its getting ready to go. other two maybe buy them just in case. then what tools am i looking at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 (edited) Timing belt 13028-0B785 - Water Pump 21010-12G28 - Thermostat 21200-V5015 - Belt - A/C 02117-90523 - Belt - Alternator, Fan 02117-40023 - Belt - Power Steering 11920-7B405 ok so found the list. what do i need and dont need. no work has been done as far as i can tell. so i know i will be replacing at least one belt the bottom one? (which ever that is) i can see cracks in it so i know its getting ready to go. other two maybe buy them just in case. then what tools am i looking at? i edited your list as i know you're on a budget. those are the important basics to change. tools.. pretty basic. all metric. 10mm-14 or 17mm..can't quite remember. gasket sealer. screwdriver. remove rad (drain first), fan, fan shroud and t belt covers. pretty easy from there. just make sure NOT to overtighten the t belt... they have a tendecy to break if too tight and fall off if too loose. make sure to installt he t stat correctly.. yes, there is a specific way to install them. if wrong, they won't work or will stick open. if oyu want to see all the innards of what yer up against before you start, click the *SLICKS PICS* link next to my sig pics below. check out SLICKS PATHY album... and i have uber more pics if you want them. make SURE the motor is TDC when you start.... and check yer timing when yer done. for rad hoses, check them as oyu remove them for wear, cracks and or damage. if they look good, use them again. check the upper rad bypass hose, it's the little snot right behind the t belt at the top.. i have pics of the bugger in my album. he blew on me on the freeway.. nasty mess under the hood, tow home... $6 hose but a PITA to change.... did a write up about that too. sssh if you want, you can also call me (thomas does all the time) if you have any questions. i can call back at no charge to me so no worries. if you want my # pm me. Edited November 25, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 I'd like to know how they listened to it with a manifold tick and diagnosed the t-belt as being bad. That takes some semi-omnipotence if you ask me. You need a 2-3' breaker bar and 27mm socket for the crank bolt(IIRC), sockets, ratchets, wrenches(ratchet wrenches are a godsend), and lots of patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 well, if the belt is stretched, it could be contacting the cover. It will transmit noise much like a fluttering sound. Maybe he is due for a new belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 no they did not diagnose a t belt form the click they said the opened some sort of thing to check it? but it does sound like a freaking disel. the click i discovered and they said it was the manifold leak. but any way what kinda prices am i looking at? and where should i go? i am definatly doing this next month ASAP so as soon as i get my ss check its time to rip her down. thanks for all your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 kragen auto parts (i got my stuff there) here's P/N's n prices Kragen 17370mk (mileage maker) biggest drive belt 7.99 Dayco: 17370 Gates: 9370 Goodyear: 17371 Napa: 25-09405 Kragen 17365mk (Mile Maker) A/C drive belt 8.99 Dayco: 17365 Gates: 9365 Goodyear: 17365 Napa: 25-09285 Kragen 17555mk (Mile Maker) Steering Pump drive belt 11.99 Dayco: 17555 Gates: 9555 Goodyear: 17555 Napa: 25-14105 Kragen 63735 (cut to fit) Goodyear Upper bypass hose 5.99 Kragen 40104 Goodyear Timing Belt 19.99 sssh i think my t belt is beck arnley or goodyear..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted November 27, 2006 Author Share Posted November 27, 2006 ok now we have a new sound. when ever i hit the gas and hold it around 1250 to 1500 rpm i get this hard core grinding clunking noise. at first i thought it was the suspension being under stress but tonight i was sitting at a light and i took it out of drive put in to neutral and pressed the gas and there it was. so i know its comming from the engine bay area. got any ideas. no power loss issues to speak of. no back fires. so i at a loss. any help guys. (or is this a presign of t-belt snapping?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 could be a pulley shot or your belt tensioner (for the t belt) i'd get er fixed asap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted November 27, 2006 Author Share Posted November 27, 2006 requesting the weekend off for the 8 and 9. am starting the tear down on sat morning as early as i can. hope to have it all done by sunday night. in time for school monday. am i setting a tight goal or not really? i shold have some help if he is available. if not its me and my manual. lol. well then theres slick i can call. wish mne luck guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 Make sure you have everything before you start. And in addition to Slick, we are here as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 Make sure you have everything before you start. And in addition to Slick, we are here as well what red said. everyone is here to help, and you have my # in case you need a fast answer or "verbal walk through" on something, and yes, 2 days should be good as long as yoou have everything out adn on the ready, and study your manual the night before so you have a clue where to start the following day. that's what i do when delving into the unknown -study- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted November 28, 2006 Author Share Posted November 28, 2006 so as to the first original reason to the post. that clunking noise was my flippen exhaust pipe. when the motor would twist slightly from appliing power to gears it would twsit the pipes with it. so they were banging into the frame. all i need are some clamps. pretty gay if you ask me. but all is good now that i know what it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 so as to the first original reason to the post. that clunking noise was my flippen exhaust pipe. when the motor would twist slightly from appliing power to gears it would twsit the pipes with it. so they were banging into the frame. all i need are some clamps. pretty gay if you ask me. but all is good now that i know what it was. glad it was a cheap fix! that's always a bonus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 Check yout engine mount to make sute the bolts are tight and that the mounts are in good shape... and don't forget that Timing Belt. If you know it needs changed or don't know when it was last done, continue with your plans of chaning it.... you *don't* want it to break on you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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